I took apart my extruder and the gear teeth had some spots that were in pretty bad shape. I have an old wades geared set up sitting around I might need to dust off and see if it works for me. Thank you everyone for the input. I'll post some before and after pictures just incase anyone is curious.by dbrewski - Reprappers
I'm printing around 40mm/sec. My layer height is .25mm with a .4mm nozzle. The picture storm trooper is printed in PLA around 230 C° (seems high for PLA but it is the temperature they recommend). I've gone up to 240 with no visible difference. The filament is from makergeeks and is probably 1 or 2 months old and was stored in a large ziplock back with desiccant. I have also tested ABS from thby dbrewski - Reprappers
I'm struggling to find a fix for a weird problem that has popped up. In the attached pictures, you can see that small gaps where it looks like it is under extruding. I have check my extrusion rate. I have done a bunch of cold pulls with nylon filament, I have adjusted temperature and tension on the filament. This filament is fairly fresh and has not spent too much time in exposed air. I am aby dbrewski - Reprappers
With your background and equipment available, I would highly recommend designing and building your own. A good site for design ideas is Openbuilds.com. They have a pretty nice linear rail system that is easily adaptable, but you can also go to the openbuilds projects link and see what others have designed. I am not affiliated with them in anyway, but the site has a wealth of information. I acby dbrewski - Prusa i3 and variants
I haven't been following this thread too closely lately, but I thought I would share this in case anyone was interested. I have updated my x axis to v rail and updated the extruder I designed so that it mounts on the mini v wheel kit. I still haven't completely tested it and was hoping the community would let me know if they see anything that can be improved. Thanks in advance.by dbrewski - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotejhitesma Quotewidespreaddeadhead @jhitesma I use that same hotend/extruder mount and it works well for me. I like your remixed idler also. Thanks. Oh, and just in case I came across too harsh...Overall I like it and would say it's an improvement over stock. My criticisms are just because I'm pretty much never satisfied and always looking to make things better - which means first identifyby dbrewski - Prusa i3 and variants
The printer is a thing of beauty. Really smooth appearance and well thought out. I'm curious why you stuck with threaded rods instead of using lead screws for your z axis.by dbrewski - Prusa i3 and variants
I almost purchased a sheet from mcmaster. Work used to have bakelite and I was hoping to snag a peice to try out at home since its the same thing. I also heard that canvas works really well when it is epoxied down to a glass sheet. I thought the bumps on the outer edge where moisture in the filament. I tried printing the same piece in ABS and got the bumbs again. A buddy told me it was overby dbrewski - Reprappers
I tried printing with Taulman 618 nylon for the first time last night. I was hoping to get some input to improve my print quality. I printed on heated glass with elmer's purple glue stick at 55C. My extrusion temperature was 245C and I was printing at a pretty slow speed. The large cone print is at 100% per customer request and I feel that is probably one of the main reasons I am seeing unifoby dbrewski - Reprappers
I never tested it with the smaller stepper motor. I designed it using a stepper motor with a lot more torque, but I know of others that have used the smaller stepper motor that came with the kit and had no problems. This might sound crazy, but try using a prefilter on the filament with a little bit of canola or olive oil to lubricate the filament.Filter I don't know if dust was getting into myby dbrewski - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemel0n QuoteLagomorph I'll look into that. How did you attach yours? Do you leave off the heatsink and attach it like the stock hot end or do you need something else to hold it? I made one of these : It has a couple issues, and I am working on improvements, though for now, it seems to be working pretty good. read earlier in the thread for more information. I posted a bunch in this threadby dbrewski - Prusa i3 and variants
I would go into the Folger Tech google drive and use their configuration manual. I've been running those settings for the most part. What layer height are you using? It looks like like it might be a little tall from the pictures.by dbrewski - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteAndrewBCN Quotedbrewski Axial fans don't like back pressure. They work great when the can push the air freely, but fan ducts that restrict the airflow tend to reduce the ability of the axial fan to push air through. ... That is 100% correct. However, since I am the designer of some of the fan ducts janpenguin has posted above, I would like to add a few remarks about how they were designedby dbrewski - Reprappers
Axial fans don't like back pressure. They work great when the can push the air freely, but fan ducts that restrict the airflow tend to reduce the ability of the axial fan to push air through. I would try looking into using a radial fan. They can really push a lot of air. I was using this design and had a TON of cooling. It was just too big and bulky. Here is a picture of my marvin using theby dbrewski - Reprappers
You can raise the voltage. I would just keep an eye on your driver and motor's temperature. If it starts to get really really warm you will need to turn it down.by dbrewski - Prusa i3 and variants
Looks like a Folger Tech Prusa and 210 seems a little high for PLA. A lot of people had a difficult time with printing PLA with the stock folger tech extruder. The filament is a little bit too stiff and the gear doesn't have enough bite to extrude it. Do you have the same problem when trying to print with ABS? If you can print with ABS try making this extruder. It's almost a necessary upgraby dbrewski - Reprappers
I say do it. One problem I see is that the way you have it designed, all the clamping forces will be on the outside edges. The beams will probably deflect in the middle where you need the squeeze. ...but maybe not. He could just pause the print after the brim is printed, clamp down, then finish the print.by dbrewski - Reprappers
How does the Makergeeks ABS compare to the other two? I've only use Folger's ABS. Folger's seems to print well but I can't keep the spool from getting tangled. I also have some very minor layer adhesion problems. Not enough to cause the print to fail, but it doesn't take much force to pull it apart. I'm guessing its temperature related more than the quality of the filament.by dbrewski - Prusa i3 and variants
Have you tried plugging the motor into the spare stepper driver and seeing if that works?by dbrewski - Prusa i3 and variants
You might want to check the wiring. I think awhile ago someone in this post had similar issues. When he compared the wiring to a working motor it wasn't the same color combination. After he fixed the color combination he was good to go.by dbrewski - Prusa i3 and variants
The bearing extenders are for the stepper motor shaft. There are four different OD sizes to accommodate the differences in material and printers. They use a 5x10x4 bearing to help reduce the radial stress on the stepper motor shaft. It should work for both types of plastic. I made one with PLA that come out OK and tardisrepair made his using white ABS and has had pretty good luck. I'm currentby dbrewski - Prusa i3 and variants
It uses the x-carriage that comes with the original kit. You should be able to take the old extruder off, salvage some of the hardware, and fasten the new up with minimal hassle. I also posted it on thingiverse. I wasn't going to do it originally, but I decided to in the long run because of how much I use the website, and I want the design to be available to anyone so it can further improved fby dbrewski - Prusa i3 and variants
I'll post these again. There was an issue with getting the nozzle to reach the bed because there was so much z height added with this mount. The x-carriage was bottoming out on the z-axis coupling before nozzle was able to reach the bed. We decided to change two things. First, I adjusted the extruder to drop the hotend down a few millimeters. Second we had to change configuration for the z-axby dbrewski - Prusa i3 and variants
Removing files to eliminate confusion until extruder can be updated.by dbrewski - Prusa i3 and variants
I haven't put it up yet. I've been busy building the kiddos swing set this weekend and haven't had time at the computer. I finally got my printer up and running again and want to do a little more testing before I post them up. I want to give credit to the originator at . All I have done is modify it for use with the folger tech extruder. They should be up tonight (after I go to see the new Aby dbrewski - Prusa i3 and variants
I modified the bearing extender to fit this new extruder. I would definitely install this little piece if anyone decides to use this but it's not critical. I really haven't been working too hard on this project. In fact, it's me putting off real work to play. It's a lot more fun to design for hobbies I choose than what the boss tells me.by dbrewski - Prusa i3 and variants
Almost done. Just finishing up tolerances and test fitting. Here is a look at the overall assembly. I honestly don't know if it will be any lighter than a geared wade extruder. It does do a good job of maintaining z height build volume and it will take minimal extra hardware to get it up and running. Once I get the green light from Tardis I'll post it here.by dbrewski - Prusa i3 and variants
I've been working on this for a couple of days with Tardisrepair and wanted to share it with the Folger community. It is a remix of the direct drive I post earlier, but it uses a different type of toothed gear. This design is used to easily swap out your Folger hot end with the an E3D using most of the hardware already in the original kit. It might take a few extra screws and a spring, but itby dbrewski - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteTardisrepair Thanks Krwynn Looked all over but never saw that one. On another note that extruder for the E3D v6 dbrewski added a link to will not work with the stock folger extruder motor gear. The current gear is too large. Off to search for another one. Is the problem something that can be modified and made to work by editing the model? If its just opening a diameter, I think I can editby dbrewski - Prusa i3 and variants
This print was at 210o C. I print any lower and first layer is spotty. I have my heated bed at 55o C. I have another roll of blue from same company and I can print it at about 200o C no problem. Unless I had a LOT of burnt material in there I doubt that is the problem. I was printing all the x-axis plastic pieces for a prusa i3, so about an 8 hour print. The darker reddish color is where thby dbrewski - Reprappers