Unbutu. Seems like I have all the libraries...would the host run if I didn't? It comes up and everything appears fine. If I do *nothing*, I can close it. Debugging doesn't seem to be much help for this problem, it reports that the thermistor is reporting away. I bring a soldering iron close, temp goes up. I move it away, temp goes down. I exercise a stepper, frozen. I have to log out/log in to reby Rick - RepRap Host
'lo all, Back from a brief hiatus. Lots of changes since I last fiddled with this. Loaded up the new host software and it seems to hang. May be a com error, I was wondering if anyone else was having similar issues. Running Single Arduino under Linux. Loaded the GCode firmware. Thermistor is happily sounding off the current temperature...when I then move to do *anything*; be it exercise a stepperby Rick - RepRap Host
Thanks for the link, Wade. Definitly looks like an improvement worth pursuing! -Rickby Rick - For Sale
Just a thought Brian, but extruder also requires two full bearings in addition to the half bearings. The dimensions are 6M rod drilled to 3M, 11mm in length if I am not mistaken. These bearings are for the gear drive. Somebody correct me if I am mistaken...by Rick - For Sale
Yowza! Sounds like you're up for a fairly tough task. The reason I say this is that it appears that due to the lack of information on the build page, everyone's McWire is a little different. Not trying to discourage you, believe me, I think its a great idea. I just have a feeling that you may get conflicting information. Builder A's center to center for the PTFE bearings may be different from Buiby Rick - Reprappers
Ok. Managed to get the Host Software working. For whatever reason the Arduino wasn't overwriting the LinearAxis.o file on a new compile unless I deleted it from the folder. Probably in the documentation somewhere... Next challenge. I really want to see it move of its own accord and I'm reallly close. Currently I do not have an extruder hooked up and (as expected) when I start a build, I get a poby Rick - RepRap Host
The "thin nuts" you are referring to are called "jam nuts", just FYI. Another route to fix the Y Stage nuts crashing with the X Stage is to shim your Y Stage rails. One or two 5/16 fender washers should do the trick. I agree that there are a few holes in the McWire build instructions on the RepRap Home site. Once I actually get mine working, I plan on attempting a more comprehensive guide. Keep aby Rick - Reprappers
Ian's link above should direct you to the right place. To find out which COM port the Arduino is using, go to the Windows Control Panel (Start -> Control Panel) and then the Hardware Manager (System -> Hardware -> Device Manager). Scroll down to Ports (COM & LPT) and expand the tree by clicking on the plus sign. There you should see something to the effect of a Communications Port (by Rick - Reprappers
Bummer. No sweat, slick. Sit back, take your time, relax...and hurry up every chance you get.by Rick - For Sale
Looks like it would be relatively simple...Reversing the GCode so the commands would build (or rather subtract) from top to bottom...the real trick is the offset for the subtractive bit (oversized for the outer lines, undersized for interior holes, etc). Haven't dug too deeply into Skeinforge yet to see if it was possible...and Skeinforge may not be the best tool for this, just curious if anyoneby Rick - RepRap Host
Jajo, This issue seems to be a hot topic lately! There is some real good info out there. This has helped me more than most. Different OS but with it being the same issue...may be cross platform. I'm playing PM tag with Leav at the moment and hope to have more info later in the week. It also may have something to do with the pin assignments. If I understand correctly, your X and Y axis are bby Rick - RepRap Host
Once I finish getting the bugs out of my McWire (fingers crossed...nearly there)I'm considering strapping my trusty Dremel to the Z Axis and milling the fabricated Extruder parts. Has anyone tried this, how successful was it and do you have any tips on proceeding setup-wise (trying to avoid reinventing the wheel)? Thanks in advance.by Rick - RepRap Host
Swapped the Z Axis Endstops and switched polarity on the Stepper and all seems right with the world...well, nearly. When using ReplicatorG v2 on my Windows machine, it homes in at the start of the build, but seems to hang up when it starts to draw the raft. Since I don't currently have an extruder hooked up, is it possible that the software looking for the extruder feedback (temp, motor, etc) isby Rick - RepRap Host
Identical. Inverted Endstops...whoda' thunk it. Changed the setting in the GCode firmware and managed to get ye olde McWire to do something (finally). But I'm not sure it's doing what it's supposed to...while using ReplicatorG v2 seems to go through the homing sequence, but when it goes to build it brings the Z axis back to what I would consider to be "Home", ie all the way to the top. Probablyby Rick - RepRap Host
Having some difficulty with my McWire. Not sure if I have a comms problem or a hardware problem or goodness knows what kind of problem...I'm looking for a bit of insight... Currently runing Windows XP Pro, Arduino 11 complied Firmware. If using the stepper tester in the RepRap Host Software, move the slider to the right, and the motors move forward. While moving forward, if I block an Endstop, tby Rick - RepRap Host
I wouldn't just assume that the Floor Flange is the solution...Check your hole to hole dimensions on the part supplied by RRRF write 'em down and take a tape measure with you to the supply house...or borrow one of theirs to verify that the dimensions for what you are buying is, in fact, what you need.by Rick - Reprappers
Good to know. I'll check it when I get home. Thanks!by Rick - Controllers
This is an odd one. My Endstops are attached to the Stepper Driver Boards, each board is powered up and grounded to the power supply chassis, but not connected to the Arduino. The Stepper Driver LEDs light up, no LEDs on the Endstops are lit, all is right with the world. I block...say...the X min Endstop, that LED lights up...everything is still good. I connect the Stepper Driver Boards to the Arby Rick - Controllers
Arun, Looks like you have it all covered. You can get the cost down by doing a little shopping around. In the States, I would suggest Lowes or Home Depot. Also, ditch the 1/2 EMT 2 Hole Strap for some 3/8ths Copper Tubing Straps. The OD for 1/2 EMT is 3/4 of an inch and your 1/4-20 Rod Couplings will have an OD of 3/8ths +/-. For what it's worth, I have attached my original shopping list. Priby Rick - Reprappers
Stepper Driver and Endstop fabrication complete. Testing has begun! Update is on the Blog.by Rick - Reprappers
Hmm...reverted to Arduino 11. Got a handful of warnings (references to an obsolete #include) at the initial startup, no errors and the warnings do not appear in subsequent loads of the Arduino Host. Interesting point of note...Single_Arduino_SNAP.pde succesfully compiles in Arduino 11 for me. Not sure if anyone else has tried 12 or has had a similar problem. For now, I guess I'll stick to 11 unleby Rick - RepRap Host
I would also suggest Blender . Not the most intuitive interface...but wow, the capabilities. It also exports STLs.by Rick - RepRap Host
Copied the libraries for RepRap to the Arduino folder. When I start up the Arduino host I get these error messages: In file included from hardware\libraries\ThermoplastExtruder_SNAP_v1/ThermoplastExtruder_SNAP_v1.h:37, from ThermoplastExtruder_SNAP_v1.cpp:1: c:/documents and settings/erickabaugh/desktop/rick's stuff/reprap/arduino-0012/hardware/tools/avr/lib/gcc/../../avr/includby Rick - RepRap Host
Indeed! Color me very interested. Guess that means you just need 2 more?by Rick - For Sale
First Stepper Driver assembled. Full update is on the blog.by Rick - Reprappers
Z stage is fabricated and assembled. Getting ready to start building the boards. For what it's worth, the blog is up.by Rick - Reprappers
All that and modesty too! What would your estimated shipping costs to US zip code 29687 be? Iby Rick - For Sale
If I am not mistaken, you can purchase a thermoplastic extruder from Bits from Bytes (www.bitsfrombytes.com) with some assembly required. Not exactly a "bolt on" piece. Meaning you would most likely need to modifiy the bracket to fit up with your Fab@Home kit. Or if you are feeling really industrious, you could attempt building your own from the plans at the RepRap home site (www.reprap.org/bin/vby Rick - Reprappers
Ack! Hadn't considered switch bounce or wear. Bounce I could have probably accounted for, wear...not so much. Looks like opto is the way to go! Thanks for the info, folks. -Rickby Rick - Controllers
Could you use a plain Jane low tech limit switch (NO or NC depending on the circuit) to accomplish the same goal? Can't open the schems for the stepper drivers from my work machine. If this question has already been asked I apologize for the repeat, but I am thankful for the link! Thanks. -Rickby Rick - Controllers