There is no setting in skeinforge for a nozzle diameter anyways! There is layer height and "layer width over height" (which is specified as a ratio) For my .5 nozzle I'm using a layer height of .25 and a width over height of 2.0 (giving me an oblong shaped 'thread' of .25 height by .5 width) I really should take the time to go through the gcode, I'm STILL having hassles with this :-/ If it weby JazzyB - Printing
SUCCESS!!! Sort of... What you've just said I understand completely sublime, the one-and-only reason I see for using one of these thin-walled-cubes is (and could be done with a solid cube except you would need to stop the printer before the top infill) to test the ACTUAL width of a thread (to make sure your extrusion is what you have programmed it to be) So I used the thin walled cube only foby JazzyB - Printing
:-O Google led me to reading about SFACT all this afternoon - I was a little hesitant to take the plunge still, saying to myself "but the folks at reprappro have their own version of skeinforge with settings modified already for my printer" and althought I updated it to skeinforge 50 (to get "brim" - ah brim... what an awesome idea that was!) I have spent a lot of time learning it (a LOT of timeby JazzyB - Printing
AND... Just to clarify... What I've read in other blogs on calibration confirms this, I have my E-steps/mm calibrated as closely as I can using digital calipers, and I have set the perimeter width to 1.95 times the layer thickness (height) So with my layer height at .25mm, when printing an object with a SINGLE wall, I measure this wall as being around .48 - .50mm thick... This is what I'd expeby JazzyB - Printing
Hi NewPerfection, I'm using Skeinforge 50 In the calibration tutorial at reprap.org (which i assumed was a credible source but, may well not be as the later tutorials state things such as "note: need to include information for calibrating this feature") it states that: "If the two parts do not fit together at all, turn your perimeter width up." "If the two parts fit together but rattle around (iby JazzyB - Printing
I'm a bit of a n00b, but, i have just found out that if I set my skeinforge fill settings to "Loops>Fill>Perimeter" I get best results with overhangs/holes - although as this hole is infact being printed in 'mid air' it's possible that Fill>Loops>Perimeter would work better, as well as having "infill in direction of bridge" turned on - really not sure what the slicer equivalent is, buby JazzyB - Printing
Hey everybody! Been printing perfect sculptures and non-technical models, No stringing, everything LOOKS fantastic, but when I come to print parts which are meant to fit together (aka perimeter width calibration block here ) I find that following the instructions does NOT have any effect on the size of my parts! I've increased and decreased the perimeter width by almost double with no effect!by JazzyB - Printing
lol... wondered why my Z axis was always going crazy instead of actually moving when I commanded it to - had 2 wires crossed there myself - easy mistake to make!by JazzyB - Reprappers
My house has dodgy electricity - i had a lot of troubles with power BUT - on every fail that was power related I would see pronterface saying "cannot communicate with printer, printer disconnected?" multiple times... Do you get ANY warnings? are you using pronterface? Was annoying because the printer would stay hot - one night I went to bed thinking it would just shut off... woke up 5 hours latby JazzyB - Reprappers
It almost looks like the 3D printer equivalent of "pixelated" - Don't know much about slic3r, but, could this be some sort of "coarseness" setting? if you have a setting for coarseness try setting it to 1.0, other than that, I have no idea sorry!by JazzyB - Printing
Had an issue recently where anything I printed seemed to start out ok, and then noticed the top layers would have a pitted finish, really strange - I tried different temps and fill amounts but the problem persisted and I determined it was probably not software related as it WAS working great and I hadn't changed much at all... It was also very random, not at the same point or only in one directioby JazzyB - Printing
Hey everybody! I have had a few head-scratching issues since starting with my RepRap pro Mendelforum anawesome reference as well as many blogs, the only thing is, I've had to sift though topics titled "why is this happening?" To find exactly what I'm after... So the idea of this thread is simply this: post a picture and description of a problem you've been having, INCLUDING how you've fixed itby JazzyB - Printing
Are you printing your "quite nice cube" with .2 infill or 1.0 infill? The top looks like it's concave a bit - i.e. there's not enough support underneath it? As for the sides, I have similar issues so I'll be following this thread for now - Temperature can control the ooze (which I suspect is the problem) and so can retracting, but sometimes you don't have much choice with temperature, and I useby JazzyB - Printing
wow!? sandblast? that seems like it would bring in a host of other problems? possible that the parts would not stick as well, or that the glass bed would be very hard to clean since there would be a lot of 'pitted' area for the plastic to get into, which may be hard to get out? Anyone done this? any experiences? could be cool! since u can sandblast one side only and leave the other smooth you coby JazzyB - Printing
Hey everybody! Was previously posting as "Bainesy" but thought I would sign up cos this is looking like a GREAT forum! Without further ado - my question is: I've set my E steps for my extruder using the PLA which was supplied with my printer. I've noticed in skeinforge there is a "packing density" setting in the dimension plugin which (from my understanding, please correct me if wrong) accountby JazzyB - Printing