Yes, connect a CD drive or old hard drive to one of the molex connectors on the PSU and then measure the 12v output with your heaters turned on. Some PSU's require a load on the +5v in order to properly regulate the +12v. Do NOT connect it to the +5v on the RAMPS board unless you want to release the magic smoke.by sheck626 - Reprappers
That's too much of a voltage drop. Have you tried placing a load on the +5v rail (like an old CD drive or something)?by sheck626 - Reprappers
If you're using endstops on the minimum pins (which you are), then you want to make sure the homing direction is set to -1. Try changing INVERT_X_DIR.by sheck626 - Reprappers
I just have a fan that is aimed at the PEEK insulator on my j-head. There is no duct. I know that isn't ideal for cooling the plastic that's extruded, but it's what I have as of now until I can successfully print a duct. I tried to print one, but when I got to the top the filament slipped off the hobbed bolt and it stopped extruding. I'll have to correct my filament guide somehow to make it wby sheck626 - Reprappers
>**Update** ive just checked the endstops with a multimeter using the beep test and it beeps when the switch is pushed It should beep with the switch not pushed and stop beeping when it is pushed. You want the switch wired in "normally closed" fashion so that in the event it gets disconnected it's a safe mode of failure (axis ceases movement during homing move). As Andrew Smith pointed outby sheck626 - Reprappers
I thought of that myself, there's only one problem. The fan doesn't kick on when it's printing that! Slic3r treats it like a perimeter and leaves the fan off until it gets to what it considers the bridge. Also, one of those pics I posted (second one from the left I think) was printed with the fan on full speed for the whole print. With the fan on, the print bed could not maintain temperatureby sheck626 - Reprappers
I'm trying to print the 50mm "bridge torture test" from thingiverse and I can't seem to get Slic3r to cooperate. I've dialed in my bridge speed settings, flow ratio, etc, but when it comes time to print the bridge, it prints a "perimeter" of the bridge which it treats like a perimeter instead of a bridge before it prints the actual bridge! The result is that it doesn't anchor properly and breakby sheck626 - Reprappers
Have you tried disconnecting one of the 12v pairs and seeing if that works?by sheck626 - Reprappers
Assuming it's a linear voltage regulator, you will need more than 5v on the input to get any output. The +5v on the Arduino is derived from the USB connector which is already regulated, so I don't see why another regulator would be necessary to deliver +5v to the RAMPS board. I also don't see why it would work just fine with the +12v switched off, but fail when it's switched on. Have you triedby sheck626 - Reprappers
I had problems getting PLA to stick to my glass print bed, but I've solved them. My solutions: Make sure the bed is level. Clean the glass with acetone and lint free cloth prior to printing (important, glass cleaner didn't work for me). Use a starting temp of 65 degrees and lower to 60 after the first layer Doing this I no longer have any problems with first layer adhesion or warping.by sheck626 - Reprappers
I'd say check your filament for contamination. Read this post.by sheck626 - Reprappers
Is there a G28 (home all axes) at the beginning of your gcode? Is it possible that the printer isn't exactly homed at the beginning of the print and the x carriage bumps into the endstop switch during the print? Maybe it's missing steps during the print causing the controller to not know the actual position of the x carriage (causing it to eventually bump into the endstop switch). Does the parby sheck626 - Reprappers
You should probably post the gcode or stl files (or both).by sheck626 - Reprappers
It's recommended to mount it on the X motor side since that's where it's the heaviest and most likely to reach it's downward travel first. I have mine mounted to the Z smooth rod so the x-end triggers it when the nozzle just touches the print bed. I find that (with my machine at least), bed leveling is the most important thing and the biggest PITA. Almost all other calibration values are moreby sheck626 - Reprappers
I use Kapton tape on glass applied with the soap/water method. It sounds crazy but it works, especially if you have a spool of wide Kapton tape. It only takes 2 strips to cover my entire build surface. My prints don't even hint at warping as long as my bed height is close to correct. The glass I'm using is just a piece of glass from a picture frame that I cut down to size with a cheap glass cby sheck626 - General
In order to keep the nozzle from bumping into the binder clips, you'll have to adjust your endstop switches and limit the print area in your firmware. Marlin was set to 200mm x 200mm by default, but I reduced it a bit to keep the nozzle in the safe zone. I wish there was a more elegant approach than limiting my print area but oh well.by sheck626 - Reprappers
This filament I'm using now is slightly oval which makes it difficult to enter an exact diameter. I'm using a value I calculated would give me the same cross-sectional area and that seems to be working. I watch the first layer as it prints and if I see it's using too much or too little plastic I can adjust my E steps/mm with M92 while it's printing. I could be wrong here, but I think a micromeby sheck626 - Reprappers
After breaking this x-carriage trying to install it (arrgghh), I just decided to put my older ABS x-carriage back on (no fan mount for PLA, but made of ABS). Then I changed the mirrored x carriage design by increasing the bearing clearance by 0.5mm and moving the extruder mount holes over just a bit (so I can get my socket wrench in there to tighten the mounting bolts). Without the fan and at 210by sheck626 - Reprappers
I attached pictures of the delamination. Notice how most of the delamination is on the solid top layer that's printed on top of the infill. I'm using 40% "honeycomb" infill and the bond between that and the solid layer above it is very weak. Those prongs (especially the middle ones) break off easily right at that point. The same part printed with PLA (only difference being the filament settinby sheck626 - Reprappers
I found a setting that seems to work okay, 215 degrees on the hotend, 110 degrees (constant) on the bed, and fan at 70% (constant, with a duct aimed at the PEEK). I managed to print an x carriage in ABS but there was some delamination that I hope I can fix with acetone. I'm betting my delamination problem is because I'm using a fan, but I needed it to prevent my PLA x carriage from melting. Hoby sheck626 - Reprappers
I got my J-head MK IV-B from ebay.by sheck626 - Reprappers
No lights should come on when just connecting the 12v unless you have your heaters/fan turned on.by sheck626 - Reprappers
I wired mine with 1 yellow + 1 black on the 5A and 2 (different) yellow + 2 (different) black on the 11A with the pairs just twisted together. I'm sure different PSU's will be different. Remember that they are designed to run computers, not repraps so you may have to load down certain rails to get them to function properly. You might be better off just buying a 12v power supply. I happened toby sheck626 - Reprappers
I've been having the same issue with my (0.5mm) MK IV-B hotend. For the record, there is a PTFE liner on that hotend. I have no trouble printing PLA with a fan, but ABS always seems to jam. When I'm printing with PLA I have my fan set at 100% for the entire print, but I've been using 50-60% for ABS since everything I've read says that ABS doesn't like air flow and doesn't have the same problemby sheck626 - Reprappers
Everything I've read says to not use bed heat and that it sticks very well to cellulose. Check out this post. Lots of good info there.by sheck626 - General
I'm pretty sure it's ABS. The filament "feels" different than my PLA filament in that it's much more flexable, less brittle and softer. It also has that characteristic odor when it's being extruded (although it's very faint, it does make my eyes water if I get too close while it's printing and it's certainly not that "sweet" PLA smell). It definately does not like to be extruded above about 21by sheck626 - Reprappers
I just started printing with Ultimachine silver ABS and I have issues with the printed objects that I think can be solved by disabling the fan. The only problem is that my x-carriage is PLA and I don't want to melt it! I'm trying to print this object to direct airflow across the thermal break (and my x carriage) and keep it away from the print. Hopefully that'll buy me enough time to print a nby sheck626 - Reprappers
There are detailed instructions located all over the place for calibrating steps/mm, and it is one of the first things you have to do before you can even think about printing anything. When I first installed Marlin firmware, the default Z steps/mm were WAY off and if I'd tried printing anything it would've just made a mess. When you tell it to move 10mm, it should move 10mm.by sheck626 - Reprappers
I only posted it 3 days ago. My question was if I could have a function like "Raise Z when crossing perimeters" since I didn't want to raise Z for every trivial retraction that Slic3r loves to do. I found a work around though. If I raize Z during retraction and select "Only retract when crossing perimeters", I can get the desired results.by sheck626 - Reprappers
When printing PLA, you should actually have two fans, one aimed at the "shaft" to prevent jams and one aimed at the print to help with bridging. I'm just using one right now, but I can definately see where a second fan would help (although I can print the "bridge torture test" just fine without the second fan, it would help with sagging). The fan that's aimed at the "shaft" can just be connecteby sheck626 - Reprappers