Through my tests, issue would start to appear at 60mm/s and would be all over the place at 80mm/s. This was mostly on curves though, not on straight lines. I was able to work around it by using slower outer shell, but still not optimal. I actually just randomly stumbled upon these videos which matched my experience exactly. Watch the second part as well: youtube I'm in the process of trying Smby Pheneeny - CoreXY Machines
We have pretty different corexy printers (I wanted mine big and fast), but I ran into issues with Marlin stuttering at high speed curves. If you are going for precision with dual extruders, I'm guessing your speeds will be lower and you won't run into that issue. Other than that, ramps/mega/Marlin was working pretty good for me.by Pheneeny - CoreXY Machines
I see a few recommendations for using a single motor and belt on the Z axis. Do you guys have any list of parts to make this happen while still using a flex coupler to account for any bends in the lead screws? I've found Pillow block bearings, but the bore on those only seems to go down to 8mm. I wouldn't want to connect those directly to my leadscrews because I feel any imperfections in the leadby Pheneeny - General
I'm not sure if I'm doing something wrong, but all of the voltages on my trimpots dropped by .2 volts when I switched from the mega to the Re-Arm. Once I got my X and Y moving properly, my rather heavy Z bed would only move down, not up. With the arduino mega, the trim pots were reading 0.57 volts and working good. Now with the Re-Arm, the Z pot was reading 0.39v. I thought that was odd and checkby Pheneeny - General
Is this resonance different than the stuttering you had before? Did the stuttering go away after you upgraded?by Pheneeny - CoreXY Machines
I think I ran into a similar wall using 1.8 degree steppers, but mine was around 80mm/s. Straight lines look great, curves get random small little blobs where the print head stuttered. Disabling the RepRapDiscount Full Graphic LCD helped a bit, but I would still get blobbing at 80, so i settled for slowing down the LCD refresh. I have a Re-Arm coming that I hope will help move faster.by Pheneeny - CoreXY Machines
I haven't used Smoothie at all before, just Marlin. I've already setup the Smoothie build environment. The only big issue I think I'm going to run into is my Z axis is currently setup with two motors on two separate drivers with two endstop, using the Marlin configuration that enables each Z motor to home to its own endstop. It doesn't look like Smoothie supports this currently, and digging throuby Pheneeny - General
Mine is coming tomorrow. I got it almost entirely for improved print quality at speed. My CoreXY print speed is being held back by the ramps board, and really chokes on fast curves. I'm hoping the 32 bit power will help out.by Pheneeny - General
Thank you everyone for the input, it helped me a lot. I ended up going with 2 corners and a middle of an edge. I haven't actually got to the point of leveling it yet, but it seems like it will work well.by Pheneeny - General
Thanks for the responses, it really helped. I'm now leaning more towards the one mid point mount and two corners. It will be a little easier to accomplish with my build, and seems like it may be a little more stable, since the other method leaves roughly half of the bed floating unsupported. How important is it to have an equilateral triangle in the mounting points? I can make an equilateral triby Pheneeny - General
I'm researching 3 point bed leveling for my corexy build, and I've seen two types of mounting location. The most popular seems to be mounting 2 of the points in both corners of one edge, and another point in the middle of the opposite edge. The other design I saw and like better is a mounting point placed in the middle of 3 of the edges. The latter design is what the_digital_dentist has, andby Pheneeny - General