QuoteApple- In a way i'm bummed because this was already available when I got my acrylic version (that I just got in the mail today), but oh well! I probably wouldn't have upgraded the bed anyway. Don't be bummed.... you have one that is well-supported and well-known.... by the time you'd get the other version it'd probably be the third week of June... i.e. another three weeks or so. Folger alsoby Chris Rap - Reprappers
Not sandpaper - but not too far off the mark. It has a self-ignition point at the ABS range... and the "high-temp PLA" range so it cannot be used for all things. The strings in my case were retraction based because I didn't get the settings right and I use higher temperature so I can print without clicking. If the extruder is not printing it tends to ooze a fair amount... but with the amount of pby Chris Rap - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteVanbot Chris, did you calibrate your extruder steps? I haven't done that yet and a wondering if that's one reason I'm not getting great results. No, I did a very thin wall part and had more strings than normal with Cura so I need to dial the slicer in. It slices and works without strings on Repetier. Objects like the treefrog require proper cooling and I don't have that, so I encountered somby Chris Rap - Prusa i3 and variants
I got mine assembled and working back three weeks ago now, about same time as you got yours. I printed a filament guide, but other than that... all stock parts. Printed up lots of stuff and need to buy a few more kg of filament since I been going through it so quickly. Printing out some larger models now and just made my first little treefrog. Using Cura for complex prints since repetier's slic3rby Chris Rap - Prusa i3 and variants
Vanbot - you got your machine dialed in yet?by Chris Rap - Prusa i3 and variants
See: That will help you troubleshoot.by Chris Rap - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteHephaestus0000 I'm using 1.75mm. At 210*c I'm not getting scorching or discoloured prints (that I can visibly detect). I can check with the house temps but that's about it. I've gone way over what I have allowed myself to spend on the printer just getting it to this point. I physically cannot get it to print any faster than 20mm/s. Unless of course I wish to listen to the song of the extruby Chris Rap - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteFalloutBe I tested with another slicer but the result is the same. I think my z rods are indeed rotating with more and less resistance every time they make a turn. I tightened the belt, hoping to reduce that effect, but now some part broke and I can't print another, CRAP! You can see the broken plastic part, the ring around the bearing which prevents the belt from slipping off :/ So basiby Chris Rap - Reprappers
It is probably too high of temperature, but I do not agree that it is the primary cause. 185 is the sweet spot for most PLAs. It is not burnt material, but the material could be decomposing.... but I think it would need longer to cook. Lighter colors tend to darken and brown, yellow for my white filament. And I'm not seeing the behavior I've seen on my machine. Also, By "spotty", I think that isby Chris Rap - Reprappers
QuoteHephaestus0000 QuoteChris RapI print structural stuff at .4 mm layers and at 60 mm/s print speeds with 150 mm/s travel speeds.This means I chug out a lot more plastic then you to boot. For these prints I run PLA at 190-195 C and when I do detail work (.2 and .1 mm layer) I run at 185 and this is "no click" unless its a thick block in excess of 20 cubic inches with minimal travel. My spool moby Chris Rap - Prusa i3 and variants
I've printed the chunky bracelet - you will need to scale it up. My wife could not wear the default configuration one because it was too small. I printed some corners, and other stuff today. Gonna make the Fishing Rod Rack by tonay88 from Thingiverse next. It is fishing season after all. To get to the questions you asked, I assembled it as directed. The origin I have on my machine is closest toby Chris Rap - Prusa i3 and variants
dbrewski - Your motors are likely overheating. They should be warm but not burning to the touch - if they get very hot then you need to reduce the current from the stepper motors. I know mine are a bit high and the temps get pretty toasty - please check your currents, the motors WILL stop and not respond if they overheat. Everything else would remain "on" as well. The red flag is that you are cooby Chris Rap - Prusa i3 and variants
Vanbot - I didn't modify any the firmware settings and I didn't have any issue - the manual from Folger Tech gives what sounds like contradictory information, but a picture shows how to configure it to the Ramps and the text (no picture) says to set it up as such. Printing at .4 layers at 60 mm/s + extrusion speed results in clicking do to improper filament melting. This is the Achilles heel ofby Chris Rap - Prusa i3 and variants
QuotekkozelI want to change the hot end to extrude at around 45 C. I will be changing the entire hot end setup, which will entail purchasing a new heater (and I think a new thermistor). 45 C? As in 45 Celsius? I think you must be mistaken. You mention 45 C twice in your opening post and I think if you mean 245 for ABS then that is likely too high for a majority of ABS plastics. Are you using spby Chris Rap - Reprappers
I built mine as given in the manual and had to only file the frame a little and i had some shorts in the drivers - but other than that both the software and the manual were fine. Vanbot - you must have configured yours incorrectly and most likely from the details about the endstop placement from the forum. My origin is in the top right corner and that is not a problem. Now, I do not have issuesby Chris Rap - Prusa i3 and variants
I was going to make a post about the tools you need and such, but essentially the Prusa I3 Kit can and does work with what they provide. I had an issue with several bad stepper motor drivers in the kit and found several errors that others like Vanbot included. Tools you should include would be a set of small files for expanding the acrylic frame to work in any too-small spaces for the nuts. A gooby Chris Rap - Prusa i3 and variants
With the heated bed the calibration cube is now at 19.92 or 19.95 out of 20 mm. The bridge still is not being done properly from a .5 thickness wall, but it is sticking. So its time to calibrate that part of it. My PLA is actually printing well at 193 C instead of the 200C I originally had it set at. Got about 10 mins left on my Folger Tech endstops and they look sweet. Preparing for more calibrby Chris Rap - Prusa i3 and variants
Well, my machine is up and running - I'm not sure if I had a bad batch of steppers or what... but the extruder one was also bad. Swapped it for the steppers (known working and already dialed in) from my other machine and it prints. If the extruder you have is "clicking" that is a sign you have insufficent current or the far more likely - improper filament feeding. Since the kit does not come withby Chris Rap - Prusa i3 and variants
Vantbot - I saw your board and I assumed you had it resolved. The tolerance is very close, but you should be able to install it. I had to push the pins together, but it wasn't a major concern. Are you certain you cannot insert the two? It should be a snug - tight even - fit, but I don't think the board is defective. The connectors are larger than they need to be and I have spares I used that areby Chris Rap - Prusa i3 and variants
Well - I got movement on my i3 kit. Folger sent me two bad Polulus and I noticed something when I was installing the heat sinks - they are oversized. That is bad and I think one guy shorted his out by accident... but a few spare Polulus are not a luxury everyone has. My kit had most of the problems Vanbot did - and I recieved mine last week. This is not a novice kit - and the directions have mucby Chris Rap - Prusa i3 and variants