Also consider PET filament:by RRuser - Prusa i3 and variants
None of the steppers should be very hot, or even very warm. They have plenty of power to do their work without needing to be driven hard.by RRuser - Prusa i3 and variants
I think metal frame is a must. Recently build a steel one: Probably too hard for a first printer, but if you are good with metal then it would be a good second or third build, and would be the most solid frame you could have.by RRuser - Prusa i3 and variants
Somebody should model a little stress relief clip for the soldered joint area. It would hold the wire straight outwards for an inch or so.by RRuser - Prusa i3 and variants
I say go with a metal, and especially a steel, frame. Removes some big variables from the equation.by RRuser - Prusa i3 and variants
What are the trade offs? If a longer heating zone, is something else made worse? With a lower-temperature melting filament, is something else worse?by RRuser - General
Same with yours; either revers the Z motor connector, or invert the setting in configuration.hby RRuser - Prusa i3 and variants
I'm now printing the eSun opaque black (which now is smooth filament; previous roll was textured), and it extrudes well at 245, but for small features that get hot, I'm trying cooling to 220 to reduce stringing. I find the glass bed (no coatings at all) should be 100 first layer, and 80 or more afterwards. If 110 first layer, then it's very hard to remove (chipped some boro glass). On cooling,by RRuser - General
Been trying to print a Wades small gear 100% infill with PETG, and because it's such a small part I need to keep the temp down, but this means I also need to slow the extrusion. I've slowed down everything in the slic3r speed settings to under 20 mm/s, but when the print gets to the teeth of the gear, for some reason it does not slow down on the solid infill of the teeth. It jerks around, and theby RRuser - Slic3r
Assuming that slic3r does not show previews of non-printing travel moves, what is the best way to see these moves so as to be able to reduce stringing over perimeters?by RRuser - Slic3r
This thing about slic3r not responding to changes in settings... is it for really small adjustments that are hard to notice, or for the entire program?by RRuser - Slic3r
The gears are tight with no free movement at any point in the rotation. Maybe the X bearings?by RRuser - General
"Try unticking "Detect thin walls". It has been suggested in another thread that this can cause incomplete infill problems" Anyone know if this might still apply to 1.2.9 ?by RRuser - Slic3r
Looks like the middle is a section of a giant honeycomb. Try 20%, or rectilinear.by RRuser - Slic3r
Has anyone heard this cyclical rattling/buzzing sound coming from a Wades? ... I've tightened and looked at every part of the extruder and cannot find it. I do know it's related to the big gear; the rattle will repeat when the gear comes back around to the same spot. Also, it does not do it much on perimeters; just mostly on back-and-forth infill.by RRuser - General
In 1.2.9, I've been playing around with the Vibration Limit (Printer Setting -> General), and I think it is really neat. Without it, my Createc steel i3 would vibrate the table as narrow infill section were done, but with Vibration Limit set to 10, the narrow infill sections are just fast enough to not shake the table at all.by RRuser - Slic3r
I know that the color pigments will absorb heat, and vary from one to the next. The Winbo $12/kg stuff is the lowest cost I've seen yet.by RRuser - General
Update: Non-warping, no smell, PET filament: No shrinking or warping. No smell. No enclosure required. Build plate can be heated or not (depends on brand). Can be printed on glass without any glue* Does not absorb water or moisture from air, so no storage container needed. Clear color is the most transparent of all filament materials. Is much "tougher" that PLA or ABS; will bend before breakingby RRuser - General
Good idea. I can get the modifier loaded, but is there a way to place it in relation to the main object? When I try moving it, it snaps back to some original spot.by RRuser - Slic3r
After resetting to default settings, looks like the problem was that I had first-layer height (0.2 or 0.15) set to less than other layers (0.3). After taking the default slic3r first-layer height of 0.4 it now looks great. The original idea was to squish the first layer more and spread it out, but it did not work out that way.by RRuser - Slic3r
Sketchup has a few quirks with arcs meeting lines. Sometimes they just don't go where you want. I still use it though.by RRuser - Slic3r
Yes, the thermistor should probably be 100K ohms. As for ABS shrinkage with infill, more infill (especially lengthwise) will cause more shrinkage lengthwise, because there will be more plastic contracting and pulling inwards, thus pulling up the edges. Try PET... it does not warp at all, and has no smell.by RRuser - Prusa i3 and variants
You might not want to twist your LCD cables; it might cause interference.by RRuser - Prusa i3 and variants
I've checked, and I don't think there is a way to have different infill amounts/percentages on different Z heights the way you can have different layer thicknesses. Is this correct?by RRuser - Slic3r
Doesn't that allow more time for sagging? I would think (no experience) that faster would stretch the filament over the gap before it had a chance to sag. In the same thinking, I would think a smaller and lighter extrusion would not sag as much.by RRuser - Slic3r
Since too much idler pinching on the filament can flatten it too much to fit through the nozzle, especially with retractions, I thought that by using only one of the idler springs you would cut the pinch force in half and stop the excess flattening. Of course it would still need to be able to pull strong enough from the spool, and push strong enough to get through the nozzle, but for "softer" filby RRuser - General
Well I went back to the default settings, and it got much better (almost touching). I noticed it defaulted to the first layer thickness being .4 compared to the .3 other layers. I had only used .3 or smaller for the first layer because I could not see how it could make a .4 layer when the nozzle is only .4 Will fiddle with the advanced first layer width and see what happens.by RRuser - Slic3r
Got it, thanks.by RRuser - Slic3r