Hi kn4ud, rippa, You guys mind sharing some slic3r tips on PETG? I see you mention lift.. did not try that, going to do it myself. I am having stringy hell right now Sonny I have auto-level in place now via servo.. love it.. let me know what I can do to help. Don't even bother trying to get the 5v bus on the stock folger to power the servo as-is. You'll need to wire up a separate 5V powerby srcga - Prusa i3 and variants
Here's the servo arm I use. If you do anything servo related on any project at all, the original SCAD file that I remixed from has all of the dimensions and such for the arms and the servo itself so you don't have to start fresh. Really helpful to learn how to use OpenSCAD. Still using this servo holder, it works so I'll leave it for now I think. Eventually when the noisy x-carriage drives mby srcga - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetwigtree I recently setup my Folger Tech 2020 i3 and my prints are dragging through already printed layers creating a line through them. Anybody have an idea on how to fix this? Printer settings: * PLA * 0.4mm layer height * 60 degrees bed and 185 hot end * Steps per mm: x=80 y=80 z=4000 e=90 * Max feedrate: x=250 y=250 z=2 e=22 * Max acceleration: x=1000 y=1000 z=5 e=1000 Thanks Did youby srcga - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotesrcga Quotetherippa Also, I found a better x-endstop holder - Very nice, I like it. On my list. Printed this -- nice piece but I think I am going to remix this one -- the stock Folger X carriage hits the endstop mount before the switch itself.by srcga - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetherippa Also, I found a better x-endstop holder - Very nice, I like it. On my list. I think I'll grab some good lm88us as well. Bowden and then Lead screws will be soon enough, already printed those parts a while ago just a matter of picking them up. Has anyone else switched out their stepper motors ever to 0.9 degree ones or am I alone in that? Myself, I'm down for a day or twoby srcga - Prusa i3 and variants
Went to put some lithium grease in the bearings on the Y carriage last night. I just loosened the rods and backed them out enough to get inside the bearings. Getting a bit of bearing noise now, hope I didn't bend the rods . Will try to see if I can get them aligned and quiet it downby srcga - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetherippa Also, if anyone is interested in some quality filament, I can give two big thumbs up to IC3D ABS. Just used up my last bit of Hatchbox printing half of the new y-tensioner, and am printing the other half with the IC3D, I can literally see the (albeit small, Hatchbox is still good stuff) difference as its going along. Worth the price difference?by srcga - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotewoodknack I see yours came out much nicer! Are you using pla or abs? I still may have some setting off a little(using s3d). But I also was printing it at 200%speed. Maybe I should have slowed it down. It's still usable just not as pretty as yours.lol. I printed it at .2 with 50% infill pla. I print ABS. .2mm layer height, .3mm first layer. Can't remember what infill this was, possiblyby srcga - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotewoodknack Quotewoodknack Quotesrcga This is the Y tensioner I use Going to take apart Y and X carriages soon when I feel like it, to lube up the bearings MMMMMM I like that tensioner! You said you are using it. It it hard to tighten the belt. Looks like the screw is hard to get at? Id be interested in trying that. Do you have any picture of yours mounted? Is the the bolt facing towby srcga - Prusa i3 and variants
This is the Y tensioner I use Going to take apart Y and X carriages soon when I feel like it, to lube up the bearingsby srcga - Prusa i3 and variants
I stuffed a piece of reflectix between the carriage and bed - really reduced heatup time and also helped retain temperature. I print on kapton tape + ABS juice. Still trying to learn how much juice but I've had parts on there so damn hard they are impossible to get off without a lot of force. Never had a part curl up yet (235 extruder, 110bed) therippa in the folgertech thread posted about Bby srcga - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotebugman72 I'm having some issues in getting my autolevel to work. I'm running Arduino 1.6.5, RAMPS 1.4 board (FolgerTech i3 Acrylic) and the latest download of Marlin. I have gone through Zennmaster's videos on getting everything set up and have successfully acquired my servo's extend and retract values as well as extruder offset values. I can successfully run a G28 and the probe works greby srcga - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotechrisg Opps, you've made me realise I meant to post this question in the Official FolgerTech 2020 thread! I'll see if I can possibly delete this thread and repost... EDIT - nope, sorry, I can't see how to delete this thread, so I'll keep the discussion going here. I've edited the top message of this thread with the kit details - i3 Prusa Reprap Yep, don't mean to be a pain, but go read tby srcga - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteRRuser "adjust that offset (in turn, dial in the first layer via firmware" What firmware setting do you use for this? (Please note I am using ABL so this response assumes that) This is the firmware related setting for ABL for Z offset.. If you change this, in essence, you can fine tune nozzle height. #define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -9.87 // pretty sure you can adjust this via Lby srcga - Prusa i3 and variants
Which kit?by srcga - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetjnamtiw Quotesrcga On the auto leveling... I for one, am lazy. And clumsy. And I like to mess with stuff. One less thing I don't have to do, the better. I'm good with leveling as well. I leveled by hand then probed for giggles.. was within 0.05mm on all corners. 1/2 a tenth is pretty darn good for those sensors! Wow. I know, close enough for me. Quotetjnamtiw QuoteMach Quotemsaeger Hoby srcga - Prusa i3 and variants
On the auto leveling... I for one, am lazy. And clumsy. And I like to mess with stuff. One less thing I don't have to do, the better. I'm good with leveling as well. I leveled by hand then probed for giggles.. was within 0.05mm on all corners.by srcga - Prusa i3 and variants
Thanks for this thread! Having this in my config.h fixed my issues. #define DISABLE_MAX_ENDSTOPSby srcga - Reprappers
Quotetherippa I would really recommend moving your x-axis to where it should be, on the left side, while you're doing this upgrade. It will solve a bunch of problems, some of which are being able to run G28 (it homes differently after autolevel is configured) and G29 successfully. If you need any pointers you can view the diffs on the branch I actually use for my setup (I use inductive autolevby srcga - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotewoodknack Quoteanimoose My hot tip of the week: if your heat bed takes a long time to come up to temperature, try placing a paperback book on it. My second hot tip: remove the book before the printing starts. LMAO Tip 2 YES very important...... I cracked up too I put some Reflectix between the heated bed and bottom carriage plate.. and I'll leave a piece on top of the bed while heating,by srcga - Prusa i3 and variants
Here's the left hand X End stop that I notched to be able to clear the add-on X-axis tensionerby srcga - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemsaeger Quotetherippa Wire cleanup, ended up buying a crimper and redid all the connectors (looks good enough for me) Got a link to the crimper and pins or what they are called? I want to shorten those wires too. Crimper -> Connectors Picked up a big assortment of connectors when I got black stepper drivers. Why not.by srcga - Prusa i3 and variants
When you guys added the servo for auto-leveling -- what did you have to do with the jumper (VCC?) next to the reset button on the RAMPS? Edit NM, figured it out. The jumper has to be towards the inside of the board for the servo to power. Although now that I did that, the LCD flickers. Not sure if I have a power supply issue or not.. going to dig into it. Doesn't do it when the USB is connectedby srcga - Prusa i3 and variants
Thanks for posting. Lead screws on the Z are on my list as well.. slowly but surely. How do you like the buildtak? How often do you find yourself re-applying it?by srcga - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetherippa Quotesrcga I'm on the forked firmware from therippa, going to get to the servo + auto bed leveling tomorrow, hopefully. I would really recommend moving your x-axis to where it should be, on the left side, while you're doing this upgrade. It will solve a bunch of problems, one being able to run G29 successfully. If you need any pointers you can view the diffs on the branch I actby srcga - Prusa i3 and variants
Cool prints woodknack I've just been doing upgrades like tensioner, end stops, fan bracket, etc... but I did print a scaled down T800 head from Thingiverse, at .2mm layer height. Looked neat With the exception of the extruder stepper, all of my steppers are 0.9 deg ones (these I believe - ) . No other major modifications from the original kit besides what I just listed Quotetherippa Quotby srcga - Prusa i3 and variants
I had my challenges with missing parts on the build, and the issue with crimped thermistor + broken wires on the hot end.. however.. have been printing and am super satisfied with this printer. I've been printing exclusively ABS. Information is power on these printers... I did a ton of reading, did all the calibration, and basically hit the ground running. Anyone I've emailed at Folger Techby srcga - Prusa i3 and variants