So I want to build a small and thin workshop lamp I could use when working on my car. The idea is to use multiple SMD LEDs so that the lamp is as thin as possible. I will print a base where the batteries are going to be and a flexible arm where I intend to put the LEDs so that it looks more or less like this: However, I am having huge problems choosing the proper LEDs. My goal is about 600lm foby icefire - Experimental and Hobby
I have searched a lot and didn't find anything so I printed a 40mm fan shroud and replaced the 30mm fan with a silent 40mm one.by icefire - Experimental and Hobby
So I am thinking of converting my old 3D printer into a laser engraving machine. My goal is to be able to engrave plywood and leather. Anodized aluminum would also be great but it is not a must. However, I would also like to be able to cut plywood/MDF up to 4-5mm (no worries if a lot of passes are necessary, speed is pretty much irrelevant). So what laser would be best for the task? I am lookingby icefire - Laser Cutter Working Group
The cover warped a bit as well but it was not that bad. Here is the finished box:by icefire - General
All good suggestions, thanks The box is roughly 300 x 220 mm, 3 bottom layers, 2 perimeters. I am going to print the top cover of the toolbox while using some clips to hold down the PEI sheet in the corners so that I don't have to rely solely on the 3M adhesive. All in all, the ready part doesn't look so bad because it is so big the warping can barely be recognized.by icefire - General
I was printing at 60 degrees C. The 3M adhesive separated from the bed about halfway through the print...by icefire - General
So I have been printing a lot with both ABS and PLA but I have never experienced PLA warping to such an extent. I have designed this toolbox: Even though I have printed a lot of big parts I have never experienced such warping with PLA. The warping was so tremendously powerful that, since the PLA was sticking perfectly to the PEI sheet, the PEI sheet managed to separate from the cast aluminum hby icefire - General
Now that everyone has expressed his feelings about the subject, maybe we could go back to the original question - how to do it Does someone know about any sort of slicer plugin or any insight on how it is done in RRF?by icefire - General
Way too much emotions here. I basically agree with the digital dentist still this doesn't eliminate the need of software compensation. About 2 years ago when I first started building my 3D printer there were a lot of discussions here about Z probes and why we don't need them because a manually aligned print bed with a reliable endstop is all you need. Which is not untrue, I accidentally damagedby icefire - General
QuoteDjDemonD RRF duet has this built in with a gcode for axis compensation. If you're sticking with marlin, you could make a request for implementation to marlin team via github.com. Prusa are already doing it with the i3 mk2 so there should be some code knocking about already. I wouldn't change the electronics just to get RRF. If I build a new machine from scratch it would be a different storyby icefire - General
Were the plugins published somewhere? I suppose that this calibration procedure could be implemented practically everywhere - in the firmware, in the slicer or externally via G-Code modification... but is there any sort of tool which already exists?by icefire - General
So I have been thinking that a lot of 3D printers have a problem with orthogonality. If the X and Y axis are not perfectly perpendicular it is impossible to print perfect circles, which could be a problem for functional parts. Same thing happens if the Z axis is not normal to the XY plane. There are numerous ways to determine the error in orthogonality (print different test parts and measure sidby icefire - General
250x320mm cast aluminum plate with PEI sheetby icefire - General
Quotethe_digital_dentist One of my printers has a ball screw in the Y axis, installed to reduce the ringing I was getting when it was belt driven. It definitely improved the ringing but the noise level is so high I had to leave the machine at the makerspace because my wife complained about it. It's driven by a 425 oz-in NEMA-23 motor that has it's own DSP driver and a 32V power supply. Maximumby icefire - General
I used to habe this IGUS linear rail: However, I decided to replace it and go for much cheaper 10mm shafts and LM10UU linear bearings because the movement along the IGUS rail was not particularly smooth. But I still think there may be oscillation of the whole Y carriage due to the elasticity of the belt itself.. I am thinking of a way to test this theory...by icefire - General
Well I could select a suitable pitch. Alternatively I could try a wider GT2 belt (15mm instead of 6mm).It is a much easier upgrade and probably the right thing to do for such a long Y axis...by icefire - General
All in all, I guess that printers with moving beds will always have the problem to some extent. I have another idea: How about using a leadscrew for the Y axis instead of the GT2 belt? My heated bed is 320mm long in Y and the physical length of the axis is 420mm. In addition to that the Y carriage is pretty heavy so maybe the belt is just too elastic for this kind of weight. Maybe a leadscrew wiby icefire - General
QuoteDjDemonD Expect some headaches, probably slightly more than with corexy, certainly more than with cartesian. What sorts of headaches? I am not scared of having technical issues because I always end up learning new things from them but I don't know what to expect from a delta...by icefire - General
I agree with pretty much all points, however, if I reuse my current print bed (320x250mm), I am going to support it from two sides with large and stable parts. A three-point-guide-rail-support may be a good but still driven by two motors. The cast tooling plate is also not a must. I currently have one but with an adequate Z probe there is practically no difference. However, I have been thinkingby icefire - General
Thanks for the help. Well, it is not a decision I will make overnight. I will take a closer look at the delta printers. Meanwhile, I am still looking for a good ultimaker-like design...by icefire - General
Quotedc42 I don't know why you are writing off delta printers Mostly out of fear of the unknown. Deltas are more difficult to build and calibrate. I haven't really invested a lot of time reading about them but they seem to be more complex on the mechanical side which also means more potential problem areas. That said, I am sure that a properly built delta printer with the right components will wby icefire - General
Thank you There is no "obvious" cause for the issue, I can move the carriage with my pinkie finger when the steppers are disabled, the belt is tight, etc. I have already swapped out 2-3 motor drivers, so it is not the driver itself... After upping the current, I have been printing for 5 hours straight with no issues... I still need to wait a bit and see if there are really no more missed stepsby icefire - General
I had a really hard time finding a PEI sheet as well. I ended up ordering one from the USA. What size are you looking for? In my experience, there a quite a few sellers on alibaba that can offer you any size you wish but the shipping costs are pretty much a deal breaker. I know, none of this is in the UK but still...by icefire - General
So after almost two years of printing on a classic Mendel-style machine which I started building as a Mendelmax 2.0 replica but ended up altering the original construction quite a lot, I think that the time has finally come to build a second printer where I invest all the knowledge I have gathered while working on the first printer. After so much drama with the moire and rippling effects and mucby icefire - General
OK, I increased the current to 85% of the motor's rating. My jerk and acceleration setting are already pretty low (jerk is 10 and acceleration is 300 mm/s^2)... I will report once the first test is complete...by icefire - General
It was blowing perpendicularly down onto the board but I moved it. I tried printing a model where the Y motor typically used to skip steps using the modified A4988 driver from the pictures above and the fan blowing across the RAMPS.... And is still keeps on skipping steps. I will need to investigate further what the cause is.by icefire - General
I couldn't agree more, however, I am trying to make do with what I've got. I really am thinking about a new and powerful 32-bit electronics board but this is not the point here. I tried this: Once I do some testing I will report back.by icefire - General
So after my last experiment with the moving print bed it got quite heavy which led to increased heat generation in the motor driver. I have a Chinese A4988 driver with a small heatsink and a 60mm fan blowing air over it. Well, this seems to be insufficient because the Y axis skips steps even at low amperage settings (1A). The chip itself is very small (6x6mm) so it is hard to find a suitable heby icefire - General
Thank you but this is not quite what I needed. G29 S3 will overwrite the Z height of a single point. So it doesn't matter what the Z probe has measured. I want to make the marlin code always add a specific value to the measured height.by icefire - Firmware - Marlin
So here is the situation: I have a 250x320mm print bed, which is being probed with an inductive probe for auto bed leveling. The bed itself is perfectly flat (machined cast aluminum sheet) No matter what leveling algorithm I use (3-Point, Linear, Bilinear) the result is always the same - perfectly level printbed with just one corner lifted. This one corner is always too high, no matter what I dby icefire - Firmware - Marlin