I have upgraded my HICTOP 3DP08 to dual nozzle and am having issues with PID values. Because my original firmware did not account for a second nozzle I had to start from scratch in Arduino. With my initial configuration.h my bed was heating so slow that it timed out and my new nozzles were heating way too fast and overshooting causing MAXTEMP errors. I managed to autotune my bed successfully bby kenpile - Prusa i3 and variants
I have upgraded my Hictop 3DP8 printer to dual extrusion, using the XCSOURCE dual J head nozzle extruder, so it now has 2 nozzles, 2 thermistors and 2 hot ends. I can not get the 2nd hot end to heat up. All components are working but I can't get power to the second hot end. When I heat nozzle 1 using the LCD I see the target temperature set and watch the thermistor temp rise and stabilise. Whby kenpile - Firmware - Marlin
I checked the thermistors with a meter and both were around 100K ohms. I checked them at the motherboard connector to be sure there was no break in the wiring. The LCD reads 22C which is about right. It goes up slightly when the adjacent ( working ) hot end is on, as you would expect. I just checked the hot ends and they both read around 5 ohms. I don't know if this is a clue but when I set thby kenpile - Firmware - Marlin
Thanks for the tip. I think the information I gave you was slightly misleading. This is my scenario... I am confident that all the hardware ( both thermistors and both heaters ) function correctly all the way to the motherboard but for some reason heater 2 will not turn on. If I use the LCD control on the printer and turn up the heat for heater 1 I see the LCD target temperature set and watchby kenpile - Firmware - Marlin
I have upgraded my Hictop 3DP08 to dual extruder. It now has 2 extruder stepper motors and XCSOURSE dual J head nozzle extruder kit which has 2 nozzles, 2 thermistors and 2 heaters. I have configured the Marlin firmware and uploaded it but I must have something wrong because the second heater will not come on. Both thermistors and heaters work ( by swapping out ) but it's like there's no power fby kenpile - Firmware - Marlin
In my experience of 3D printing I found that filament from one supplier never clogs and filament from others do. Have you changed supplier recently? Some minor experimentation with heat settings is also required per supplier.by kenpile - Prusa i3 and variants
Thank you. My mistake, the skirt was irrelevant, though I will now look into using one after you pointed out its usefulness. I presume the perimeter extruder means the extruder that prints support material? If so, does it function correctly and prevent warping, if it is wide enough? Anyway, from what you tell me I do not need to model a skirt, just let Slic3r apply it. Sorry, I don't understaby kenpile - Slic3r
I am in the process of upgrading my Hictop 3DP8 to dual extruder. The plan is to use the second extruder to print support. Does anyone know whether Slic3r treats skirts and brims as main or support material? I'm wondering whether I need to model the skirts into my CAD model as the skirts need to be fixed firmly to the model to prevent warping.by kenpile - Slic3r
I have recently purchased my first 3D printer, a Tronxy XY-100 ( Prusa i3 ) from gearbest. It was advertised as printing 220x220x250 but the biggest I can see possible to print is about 140mm ( x axis ) x 150mm ( y axis ) x 150mm ( Z axis ). This is the maximum travel of the nozzle and bed carriage. The physical distance between the structure posts is 170mm so the physical bed must be less thanby kenpile - Prusa i3 and variants