I bought a spool of Black PLA, but it sure doesn't act like PLA. It's oily, more flexible, and doesn't want to stick to the build plate (PrintBite) at any temperature combination (bed/extruder) It doesn't smell when printed and the stated print temperature rage on the label says '190c-210c' which differs from the 'standard' PLA I normally get: 190c-220c It sorta acts like PETG, but not as flexibby DaHai8 - Plastic Extruder Working Group
Two good things to know! Thamks for the info. Cheersby DaHai8 - Plastic Extruder Working Group
Anyone tried printing PLA onto PETG? I want to print an object in Black PETG up to a certain layer height and then switch to Grey, but I don't have any Grey PETG. So how about Grey PLA? Will it laminate? Anyone have any experience with this? I've done a couple web searches and come up empty. Thanks!by DaHai8 - Plastic Extruder Working Group
I was attempting to convert my MK8 system to a E3D V6 Boden System (failed due to crappy E3D throat), and noticed that my old MK8 heat block had Kapton tapped around the heat sensor tip! Yes, the tip that fits inside the heat block was wrapped in Kapton tape... Any ideas why? The only thing I can think of is that it quieted the heat reading so it appears to not fluctuate as much. Thus making it lby DaHai8 - General Mendel Topics
OMG! I'm a COMPLETE IDIOT!!! I just wasted a whole day and everyone's time who looked at this an scratched their heads. I'm sorry Dust, I'm a dunce. The model has a straight side right there and is not rounded. I think I'm going to just hide under a rock for the rest of eternity. Sorry everyone. This is resolved: PEBKACby DaHai8 - Firmware - Marlin
Thanks for the suggestion! I tried the "G92 X-40 Y-40" and it did the same thing (see photo). But even stranger, as the print head was passing through the negative positions it moved REALLY SLOOOOW and almost sounded like it was grinding. Once it got to into positive positions (past 0,0), it sped up to normal speed and proceeded to print incorrectly like before. Is there anyway to read what isby DaHai8 - Firmware - Marlin
I have a Prusa I3 style printer (Aurora A3). So it's home position is off the print bed - to the left and forward about 40mm x&y. It's print area is 190x190 square If I print something at 0,0 it is actually offset left and forward by 40mm. My original solution to this was: G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops G1 X40 Y40 ;Move to print origin G92 X0 Y0 ;Set this coordinate to 0,0 But this aby DaHai8 - Firmware - Marlin
I found something similar: UBEC And had already ordered it. Bummer. Your's has the mini usb connector and the UBEC doesn't. Oh well, just a little soldering....by DaHai8 - Controllers
Wow! Thanks for the quick reply! The 5-pin regulator says: JM34RP LM2596S -5.0 P Pretty sure that's what's written on it. The Datasheet on it says "Guaranteed 1.0 A Output Current", so looks like you're right, its not enough to power a PI. Bummer. But thanks for telling me where to look for what I needed to know!!!! Cheers!!by DaHai8 - Controllers
I have an MPX.3 3D Printer Controller board: I know very little about it but believe it is a MKS Base 1.x clone: MKS Base 1.x There are connectors on this board that I THINK are 5v out, but I can't find any documentation on them. What I'd like to do is power my Raspberry Pi 3B off the 3D Printer board. It's running OctoPi and I thought it would be nice if I could fully integrate it into theby DaHai8 - Controllers