Yeah right, offcourse it´s the easiest way. Facepalm smiley here! As a designer, I didn´t realise that you could make threads to aluminium too... And to thinking about it, I can put thru holes to aluminium and t-slot nuts underneath... I was thinking about to mill exact places to aluminium plate to hold the rails in correct position, and thru thruholes attach the plate and rails att the same tiby kapperi - CoreXY Machines
Also I have Tevo titan type extruder and had to change bigger stepper to it, now its working right. I have to test petg again with higher temp...by kapperi - Printing
Theres definetly something wrong with my nozzle, waiting packet from e3d with updated block and a couple of new nozzles. I started to print with pla and layerbond is way better than with petg. Only thing is that I have to keep 240c with pla too. Its very odd pla roll or i have to get thermoter to measure real temps of nozzle if its somehow lies too much... Hmm, something wrong with my petg rollby kapperi - Printing
Yes I noticed that the heavy bed surely slows down the acceleration. I had to put something like 600mm/s2 but the x-axis works great with 1200mm/s2. I think that this can be the dealbreaker? With small pieces and countless hole perimeters this slows my printer down, and offcourse theres this enclosing thing what is easier and better looking with corexy things... I'm driving now with sav mk1 andby kapperi - CoreXY Machines
It wont be hard with Haas VF-4 what I can use... I was thinking about using waterjetted aluminium plate under the rails but I cant think of way to attach the plate without bringing it out of the extrusions... I want to do another level above the extrusion to get proper enclosement. Today I was printing my I3 XLSteel over 70mm/s and it was foing great quality. I was printing PLA. Please tell meby kapperi - CoreXY Machines
Ok, I'm going go with that then. Let the designing(copying) start.. Ps. Fusion is full of crap compared to creo what I'm using at work...by kapperi - CoreXY Machines
Quotethe_digital_dentist I wouldn't let my dog (if I had one) use 2020 to build a 3D printer. Go with the larger stuff. Ball screws will probably allow the bed to drop when power to the Z motor is cut, if everything is aligned well. I definitely would not mix bearing blocks and rails from different manufacturers. Linear guides are systems, not parts. So do you think I go with the 3030 or isby kapperi - CoreXY Machines
Thats the problem. Theres no makerspace here, scrapyards try to get more money than new ones from ebay... Carparts are half the price from internet than from scrapyard. Its called FinnishTax, everything costs more...by kapperi - CoreXY Machines
You're right with the mixing thing, DD lives in somekind of dropzone I guess... I'm now pretty sure about the structure of my printer. I'm going to put 3 ballscrews to bed, one in back and to at the center of printer. Two of aluminium bars at the front going to be 10cm to center to make more room to handle pieces in hotbed. Hotbed structure will be like in DD's printer. Hopefully without adjuby kapperi - CoreXY Machines
Damn you Digital Dentist, I was so sure about those rails and now you got me thinking... There seems to be real hiwin sledges for 20$ per piece, does it fit to that cheap rail? For z-axis I'm thinking that I put rails to the back and with three ballscrews(chinese) One between rails to the back and another ones to middle of bed or to the front corner of printer. How does this sounds. For the hotby kapperi - CoreXY Machines
Ok, I´m going to go with the robotdigg rails... Cheaper to do than v-slot thing and looks more professional.. And I´m allways be able to upgrade the rails with real hiwin ones... Quickly looked I can get rails and aluminium profiles with the price of V-slot aluminium profiles of D-bot design...by kapperi - CoreXY Machines
Hey, those are excellent prices. Do you dc24 think that those are good enough for corexy printer? Price with those I think that I put rails for Z-axis too.by kapperi - CoreXY Machines
I got prices for real Hiwin bearings... MGN9C1 is 80€ per bearing and 420mm of rail. HGR15 is 62€ per bearing and 400mm of rail EGR20 is 71€ per bearing and 400mm of rail All of these are very high quality and all of those is good for even small router (PCB for examble). I can get all of the V-slot things to with one rail costs... So it is V-slot or chinese rails or round bars, Which one?by kapperi - CoreXY Machines
I know petg, but it is painfully slow to print with my printer. Maximum is 25mm/s. Actually I have done some ABS printing now and its not that bad. Only problem is quality and bed adhesion is way too strong.by kapperi - Printing
It´s a bad picture, it was better looking in nature... JustSumGuy there´s no enclosure at all, no fan blowing to the part. I was printing for about 50mm/s but with 450mm/s2 acceleration. Layerheight is 0.3mm Extruding is calibrated and it is dead on. I calibrated it six times... Digital Dentist destructive test is useless, no noticeable weaker points... Very hard to get off from heatbed. Hby kapperi - Printing
Picture tells it all. Luckily I printed that so that I found optimal temp for that abs filament, NOT....by kapperi - Printing
Digital Dentist, thats what they call overengineering... I have looked datasheets and I think that mgn9 is more than enough for 3d-printer, at least if its hiwin made. Whats the benefits of v-slot wheels. Are those silent, cause main thing for me is that linear movement is silent. Offcourse I'm going to choose rails if theres nothing better with wheels. I think that both can be built with samby kapperi - CoreXY Machines
Yes I know that original Hiwin bearings are top of the line... Just thinking that are those cheap linear rails better than V-slot wheels. We use Hiwin bearings and rails at work but prices are huge to 3d printer. Bearing only costs 40e and the rail is 100e per meter. I want to do printer with these bearings it would cost me over 500e just for the rails and bearings. Offcourse these are littleby kapperi - CoreXY Machines
I have been looking for CoreXy machine designs for a while now. I allready chosen D-bot as my choice of printer, but then I noticed that chinese mgn9 linear rails are dirty cheap nowadays. Frame and linear components for D-bot costs rougly 150€ and it is mainly 2040 - size framing On the other hand it costs about 120€ to make similar with linear bearings from china. Mechanical part is not a pby kapperi - CoreXY Machines
Maybe there something in my nozzle, if I extrude in the air I got loops. Start of the filament stucks to nozzle and rest of extrude go straight down making loops...by kapperi - Printing
I´m using 0.4mm nozzle. Layer height is usually 0.2mm or 0.3mm. I´m in process to order newer type of hotend-block to be able to use silicon socks. Extruder is working and wont click at all, I too use a little underextrusion of 0.96 to 0.98. I don´t use cooling at all, ´cause it destroys last rips of layer adhesion I have... Bridging is almost perfect with my settings and no stringing or oozinby kapperi - Printing
Those are good points all, but mine first layer is perfect (I think), maybe too good what comes to getting the parts out of the bed... My problem is that in next layers when the speed should rise, I can´t get it to stick to previous layers and its sticking on nozzle. I´m doing first layer at 20mm/s and next layers absolutly maximum is 27mm/s... There´s no problem with stringing and oozing... Reby kapperi - Printing
Going to steal this topic but, Is it normal that I cannot print Esun white petg over 27mm, after that it just sticks to nozzle. Temps are something like 240c or 245c and hotbed is 60cby kapperi - Printing
Actually there is some warnings, these aren´t affecting anything? Are they? Warning: Board arduino:avr:usbtsav doesn't define a 'build.board' preference. Auto-set to: AVR_USBTSAV Warning: Board arduino:avr:cdcsav doesn't define a 'build.board' preference. Auto-set to: AVR_CDCSAV Warning: Board arduino:avr:cdcsavD doesn't define a 'build.board' preference. Auto-set to: AVR_CDCSAVD Warning: Boardby kapperi - Firmware - Marlin
And the avrisp mk2 does the job... I think that it was just a mistake to try flash that with windows pc and avrdude. No problems with raspberry... Thanks @Dust, now its working great.by kapperi - Firmware - Marlin
I used BootloaderCDC, through shell with avrdude avr109 protocol. I wonder how it is possible to brick bootloader with that kind of programming method? I have Avrisp2 and I think that I can flash new bootloader if needed... Now it doesnt do anything when I connect usb cable to pc or raspberry, so flashing thru bootloader is impossibleby kapperi - Firmware - Marlin
Aaaand now it's just a lousy brick... Compile works beautifully but the flashing did not...by kapperi - Firmware - Marlin
Yes, forum works better now. Many thanks to admins (VDX)?by kapperi - General
Thank you very much! Im going test this as soon possible...by kapperi - Firmware - Marlin
QuoteDust Its failing at the compile step, there is no image to flash to anything yet. Did you install the Teensyduino ? Did you install the SAV MKI files? Did you select SAV MKI as the board type? Did you set motherboard = "BOARD_SAV_MKI" in your configuration.h? where exactly are you getting this new marlin from? I installed Teensduino and the SAV MK1 File, and if I choose Sav MK1 boardby kapperi - Firmware - Marlin