I have a Duet 2 Wifi running off 24v and would like to connect a fan to P2 to cool the board when the MCU temp gets above 45 degrees. Is this as simple as connecting the fan (a 2 wire 24v fan) to P2? If so, what gcode command do I use to monitor the MCU temp so it knows when to come on? I have read some posts that talk about having to use a resistor, but am confused about this as the part coolinby vfwfw - Duet
I ended up working out that I had the plug the wrong way around (the wires are not standard colours), so it's working now. However as you alluded to in your first post, even with the new board, the heat bed is still not able to be heated to 110 degrees without a thermal runaway error. So, would the problem be the heat bed?by vfwfw - Prusa i3 and variants
Well, I thought it was all working fine, however although the Z probe lights up when I touch metal to it, it is not triggering in the software (ie. when I send an M119 in Pronterface it stays open whether I have something metal against it or not). I have plugged the Z probe into the Z- connector on the board (D18?). Is this the correct position?by vfwfw - Prusa i3 and variants
Thanks dust, that was exactly what I needed, and it all works fine. Much appreciated.by vfwfw - Prusa i3 and variants
Thanks for the diagrams Dust, this clears almost everything up. However I am confused about the Z motors / stepper drivers. On the Ramps board, both Z1 & Z2 motors had separate connectors and only one stepper driver that controlled both, whereas this board appears to only have the one Z motor connector. Will I have to splice both the existing motor cables into one for this board? Also, doeby vfwfw - Prusa i3 and variants
I have a Prusa i3 clone that has been working fine with the RAMPS 1.4/Arduino combination, with the exception of the heat bed which I cannot reliably heat over 60 degrees celcius. I have gotten a hold of an MKS Gen v1.4 board .. My issue at the moment is that I can't find hardly any information on the wiring setup for this board. I have only found a Wiki page for the v1.1 version of this boby vfwfw - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi Roberts_Clif, It seems to be working OK now, however if I get the issue again I might try your solution...Thanks.by vfwfw - Prusa i3 and variants
I don't know if this issue is the cause, but I have attached photos of the print I am having trouble with the fan coming on. Or would not having the printer in an enclosure be the issue?by vfwfw - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteDust This is settings in your slicer... which you haven't mentioned I thought I had turned the fan off in the slicer, in the Filament Settings tab. I unchecked both options in the Enable dialog box and it says that the fan will be turned off, but when I print, if there's a layer where there is bridging (usually just after an infill layer) then the fan comes on 100%.by vfwfw - Prusa i3 and variants
I have recently built a prusa i3 clone and am just starting to print in abs. The issue I have is that in Slic3r I am turning the fan off, however at certain points in the print, the fan comes on at 100% and is actually cooling the hotend down to a point where the print is killed due to thermal runaway. How do I ensure the part cooling fan does not come on at all....apart from actually unpluggingby vfwfw - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteRoberts_Clif From my own thermister open circuit and displaying -14C, would say you have an shorted thermister this should read 358C. turns out that the high temp reading had something to do with the way the thermistor was screwed into the hotend block. When I started to unscrew the grub screw holding the thermistor in, it staraight away started reading room temp. I just screwed it back iby vfwfw - Prusa i3 and variants
Also, have just run into another problem where the thermistor is reading the hotend temp as 362 degree celcius as soon as I turn it on. Any idea what could cause that?by vfwfw - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteobewan 2mm switching distance is very limited especially with a aluminium bed, this distance will be reduced, (2mm is with a ferrous material). If you have the bed heater enabled while probing, the current going thru the heater can also interfere with the probe. I have an issue with the bed heater at the moment so it is always off, however I have tested it with the hotend heater off and thby vfwfw - Prusa i3 and variants
I have recently built a prusa i3 clone (basically followed the youtube videos by Tom Sanladerer) and it has been working fine for a while. I just had a nozzle blockage, and after clearing the blockage (it is now extruding OK) the auto bed leveling is not working properly. I have an inductive sensor (NPN NO LJ8A3-2-Z/BX-5V), and when I request a G29 , the nozzle is a good distance on the left siby vfwfw - Prusa i3 and variants
I have recently built a Prusa i3 clone with the Ramps 1.4 board and I am trying to add an LCD... I am using the Marlin firmware, and have added the u8glib library to the arduino.cc software. I have uncommented the following line in Configuration.h #define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER however when I try to complie, I get an erro that says - 'min_software_endstops' was not decby vfwfw - Prusa i3 and variants
Thanks slippyr4, I think I will give the MKS Gen a go.by vfwfw - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteslippyr4 I'd personally not bother with ramps at all. The MKS GEN and MKS base are much better boards, with an extra mosfet you can use for another extruder or a fan and the bed mosfet ar capable of enough amps. They cost about the same as a budget ramps clone and budget arduino mega clone together. And are pin/firmware compatible with ramps. I have been looking at that board and wonderingby vfwfw - Prusa i3 and variants
I'm not the best at soldering circuit boards, so don't know how I'd go at replacing the mosfets, but I think I'll give it a go. If I do as well as I expect and totally stuff the board up, would you recommend going with one of the newer Ramps boards that have the better fuses and mosfets already installed, or are there better boards than that that would suit my configuration?by vfwfw - Prusa i3 and variants
I have just built a Prusa i3 clone using the Ramps 1.4 board, and while it has been printing PLA fine, I have been unable to print in ABS as the bed has not been able to maintain the temperature. I have been testing heating the bed while printing PLA and the prints get killed only a few minutes into the print due to the bed temp dropping slowly. It heats up to the required temp OK, but can't keeby vfwfw - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi Dust, the fans are installed correctly, however after a few more failed prints it does appear to be the part cooling fan that is also cooling down the hotend and causing the problem. Is there a way to adjust the intensity of the part cooling fan?by vfwfw - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteobewan In configuration.h uncomment the following line (remove // ) //#define Z_SAFE_HOMING this should move the nozzle to the centre of the bed after X and Y are homed and then home Z Perfect! Thanks obewan!by vfwfw - Prusa i3 and variants
The PID autotune didn't seem to make a difference, and I have checked the heater cartridge wires which look fine. I replaced the thermistor just in case, and I'm still getting the issue. It seems to happen when the print gets to a part where the extruder is going quicker than before...when it is printing a solid layer, and the temperature just seems to start dropping until the print is killed.by vfwfw - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteobewan What firmware are you using ? I'm using Marlinby vfwfw - Prusa i3 and variants
Is there a way to do it in the firmware? I considered moving the endstop but that is a much trickier job if there is an easier way.by vfwfw - Prusa i3 and variants
I have recently built a prusa i3 clone (basically followed the youtube videos by Tom Sanladerer) however when I give the home command, the home position of the bed means that when the z-axis homes, the bed is too far back and the probe is missing the bed and won't trigger, with the extruder being lowered too far and crashing into the bed. Is there a change I can make to make sure the home positiby vfwfw - Prusa i3 and variants
I have just completed a pid autotune and when it finished it says to update the firmware with the pid values. If I set the pid's in pronterface with the m301 gcode command, will that be a permanent change or do I still need to change the firmware via the configuration.h file?by vfwfw - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteDust broken cable to heater cartage, check the cables or another common issue the thirmistor is escaping from the heater block, just a very small gap can make it read low temp. The cables to the heater don't seem to be broken. Is there another way to check if they are OK - such as with a multimeter?by vfwfw - Prusa i3 and variants
I have recently built a prusa i3 clone (basically followed the youtube videos by Tom Sanladerer) and it was up and running and I printed a couple of prints with no issues, however after those first two prints, now I get a thermal runaway on the hotend and it kills the print after about 15 minutes of printing. I have printing PLA and have had the hotend temp set at 200 degrees celcius. It is droby vfwfw - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi obewan, I am using a Digitech QM1321 multimeter (photo attached) and measuring the thermistor disconnected from the board. The attached photo shows how I have been measuring it and the reading I am getting. The one being measured in the photo is the one stuck to the bed, however the one attached to the hotend is showing the same reading and both components came from different suppliers.by vfwfw - Prusa i3 and variants
so does that mean that the thermistor's are faulty?by vfwfw - Prusa i3 and variants