VDX Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > ... where are you located? > In the US. Pennsylvania, specifically. If I could even get 100 or so grams each of cyan, magenta, yellow, and black I'd have more than enough for a few year's worth of experiments. Masterbatch is usually added to the base plastic in ratios of 25:1 to 100:1. I don't need much , but I just caby wanderingjew - Plastic Extruder Working Group
I'm doing a few experiments with making my own filament at home. Things are going well, but I'm wondering if it would be possible to add color to the ABS pellets I'm currently using. The literature tells me that plastics have color added to them with a material called 'masterbatch' - plastic pellets that have very high concentrations of pigment in them. When adding these to white plastic pelletsby wanderingjew - Plastic Extruder Working Group
I'm just going to throw this idea out there. I'm probably not the first person to think of it, but the idea does seem to be fairly interesting. I've been thinking about control panels for my Prusa as of late, and I came up with the idea of using a small Android tablet as a control interface. The tablet would serve as a USB host to the reprap electronics and have the same features of ReplicatorGby wanderingjew - Controllers
I bumped the layer height down to 0.3 and the width down to 0.5. I'm now the owner of a 20mm calibration cube: I think the problem I'm having is that the layers aren't cooling down when the next layer is being printed. Is there any way to slow down or stop the extruder in between printing layers. Also, is there any wiki/manual for Skeinforge? Most of the guides I've seen either go into too muby wanderingjew - General
Layer Height = 0.4 mm Nozzle Size = 0.5 mm Extrusion Width (under Skeinforge/Carve): 0.60 mmby wanderingjew - General
If I fold a piece of printer/copier paper and slide it under the nozzle, I can feel the drag on it. I'm pretty sure the z home position is nailed down pretty well.by wanderingjew - General
I've been calibrating my reprap for about a week now, and I'm just about at my wits end here. I at least expected to be printing a weighted companion cube by now. Right now I'm working through the reprap calibration page on the wiki: . The bed is level, and all the motors work wonderfully. When I try and print the 0.05 mm thin wall box file, all the melted plastic bunches up right after I lay itby wanderingjew - General
Alright, here's my setup: Regular Prusa, sanguinolilo board, Budaschnozzle hot end and an XBox 360 power supply. I've already tested out each part of the build independently (all motors work, the thermistor works, and the heater resistor *did* work). I just got done re-wiring everything to clean things up. Right now I've got a situation. Whenever I set the temp of the hot end in ReplicatorG, thby wanderingjew - Controllers
I'm in the final stages of finishing up my Prusa. I'm using ReplicatorG with Sprinter on my Sanguinolilo board. Right now I'm having trouble with my wades extruder. The X,Y, and Z axes are working perfectly, but whenever I try to print something the extruder just sits there looking pretty. This is my E motor that I got from Lulzbot (great guy, btw). I've tested out the wiring for the motor by aby wanderingjew - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors