Quotedailafing Do you think that a single controller on the ramps board will be able to power two motors? Also, are there alternative or more powerful stepper motor controllers that I could have purchased for use with my ramps board? As long as your stepper drivers are rated for 2 amps and your motors are only 1 amp a piece then you will be fine. But if you go with larger steppers that draw highby Iceman086 - Reprappers
I have to agree with that point. NEVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVEby Iceman086 - Reprappers
I was looking at your renderings posted on the 23rd and I realized that you are going to have big mechanical issues on your gantry with only 1 belt running things on the long axis (the 1500mm length). The reason for that is the single point of movement will cause the X/Y gantry to shift do to only be moved from one side. If you look at gantry based X/Y systems from printers like the Ultimaker theby Iceman086 - Reprappers
Quotedailafing I'm really glad your asking me the right questions, I am really looking forward to hearing some thoughts soon on things like, what I should use as a platform, motors, how to power motors from a separate PSU, maybe ATX? Before I continue with my comments please understand that this community is here to help, not to give you a full build out. You have to do the legwork and then askby Iceman086 - Reprappers
I had the opportunity to help them stand it up in Detroit, its a heavy SOB. The aluminum extrusion they used is not light.by Iceman086 - Reprappers
Before I say anything to encourage or discourage or even point you in the right direction, I have a few questions if you would be so kind as to answer them that will help with my response. What is your budget? (HUGE thing to consider) Do you have a time line you are working with/on? What is your experience? Do you have experience with designing in any kind of CAD program? If so which one? (Soby Iceman086 - Reprappers
I have used an Ultimaker original for about 2 years now and it has been great with no heated bed. I do use a sheet of single pane glass ontop of the acrylic bed though as PLA sticks a little to well to acrylic for my liking. With the glass I use Elmers glue sticks (label says Extreme). A single layer of this will allow PLA to adhear really well. Just make sure it dries fully to the touch before pby Iceman086 - General
To put it all into perspective along with what Sheepdog said, we uploaded a Griffin Pro lower connector to ProtoMold to see how much it would come back at for single mold. It was over $15,000 for just that one mold.by Iceman086 - Delta Machines
Quotecaleb12134 Lastly is there a drag and drop program that has a list of all components like makerslide, aluminum extrusions, bolts, belts, pulleys, etc? Thanks! There are a few answers to this question. 1) McMaster Carr has EVERYTHING you will ever need in terms of nuts and bolts drawn up in all kinds of CAD formats for free! Find the nuts, bolts, screws, etc. you are looking to use and youby Iceman086 - General
I have a solidworks model of the PrusaNozzle 2.0 I can send you. Shoot me a PM.by Iceman086 - General
With the GriffinPro we are running the Axteeg X5 mini with FSR for auto calibration and optical end stops. Right now we can push some amazing speeds and still get quality prints. The nice thing about the Griffin's is that they are salable in design. You can go up to the full 1500mm tall machine to get some huge prints or go with the Mini version which is compact enough to travel just about anywhby Iceman086 - Delta Machines
Check out the Griffin. We are in the process of finishing up the Griffin Pro's which can reach unbelievable speeds. If you are willing to wait until July 26 then we will have our kickstarter up and running for the Griffin Pro series. With the current open source version you can build it for about $500. If you in the St. Louis MO area then we can even show them to you.by Iceman086 - Delta Machines
QuoteA2You could experiment with the compost shredder, I would scale it down, and for the cutting edges try using the head of a Phillips screw. File/grind the face flat until the edge is sharp. I would also add an angle to it to give it a shearing property. Compost shredder If you look though, the compost shredder is based directly on the model that the Filamaker guy created and put out therby Iceman086 - General
For some reason his site was hiding from my initial search. Here is the site: You can also find the plans for the shredder on GrabCAD: He also has a larger one that he made recently that you can likely enlarge the mini to become.by Iceman086 - General
Wrong box! Disregard!by Iceman086 - Delta Machines
Using bar stool tops for your frame will be your undoing. They are not meant for this type of application. I am not going to recommend that you replace them, I am going to TELL you to replace them with a piece of 3/4" plywood. As an engineer I would hope that you understand that pieces of wood that are glued next to one another with no jointing will fail much sooner than sheets of wood stacked onby Iceman086 - Delta Machines
You need to freeze the prints before you chop them up because it helps to preserve the chemical bonds of the plastic. Melting the prints down then chopping them up in a blender degrades the plastic further than it would if you simply freezed the parts then shredded them. You need a sheering action to properly cut the parts up. Look at ANY other device that industrially created a granulated materby Iceman086 - General
We are working with Gorilla Glass at the moment and it is working rather well. We do use a thin layer of elmers glue (glue stick) as a bonding agent to help the prints adhear. It works wonderfully.by Iceman086 - Delta Machines
I revieved the water pump just a few minutes ago and tested it with a power supply, it was a fool hearty experiment. It is to noisy to put with a printer and causes vibration. With the Ametek Microjammer it is to big to hide somewhere inside of a delta bot's frame. We are hoping to use something small in several printers that will be quiet and take up repetitively little room. Its alot to ask foby Iceman086 - Developers
I am aware of the possible over heating issues but considering the price it was worth experimenting with. Thank you for the advice!by Iceman086 - Developers
I have been trying to figure out a way to create a better method of cooling at the hot end of the Delta's that my friends and I are working on. Right now my concept is to run a tube down to the nozzle to cool layers instead of having a fan near the head. The theory is that the tube is lighter and will not get in the way of prints and will not hit the sides of the machine. Materials The plan isby Iceman086 - Developers
As I am not an officer of the hacker space and merely a member, I would rather not disclose the location in a public forum. Please PM me and we can talk further. I will say that the Taz is now running well but with a J head and not a Buda schnozzle.by Iceman086 - General
I have used a Taz at our hacker space and we have had nothing but issues with it for 2 months. It is now working but we had to change the hot end out completely to a J head. Even now that the head is working, the printer screws up every time its moved around the space due to the frame not being rigid enough and it requires re calibration. Ultimaker 2 is still the way to go. If you have the moneyby Iceman086 - General
Like Traumflug said, your other option is using the Pololu stepper drivers to send signals to larger stepper drivers that are able to push more power to the motors without burning out the boards. In addition to those larger stepper drivers you will also need to have a power supply with more amperage in order to drive the motors as well. For example, if you have 3 stepper motors that use 3 amps aby Iceman086 - General
Just to make sure, you are looing for +/- 5micron (0.005mm) tolerance or +/- 0.005in tolerance?by Iceman086 - General
Here are the links to the print pics!by Iceman086 - General
Most of the Cartesians (Ultimaker's, Makerbots, etc) use 3mm filament while the Deltas mostly use 1.75mm filament. Either style of machine can use either 3mm or 1.75mm filament, its just a matter of swapping out components (hot end, sometimes knurled/hobbed bolts) and adjusting the firmware and software. its all a matter of preference at this point and how the filament will be run to the nozzle.by Iceman086 - General
Will you be freezing the prints prior to shredding in order to avoid chemical decomposition?by Iceman086 - General
I would have to agree with MrDoctorDIV. The Ultimaker 2 is the way to go if you want a solid out of the box printer. It can run PLA, ABS, Nylon and a few others as well. As for what Robert6688 said, he is totally wrong. Filament size has been proven to not matter when it comes to precision and print quality. That being said, filament size does matter when you are working with machines that use dby Iceman086 - General
Can you elaborate at all? How would you be recycling the prints?by Iceman086 - General