rhmorrison Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > That is transportable, NOT PORTABLE. > > For a transportable 3D printer see Ben Heck's > Portable, Autonomous 3D Printer. Indeed. Though you mean Ben Heck's is Portable! Also see FoldaRap.by yydoctt - General
jamesdanielv Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > > VIDEO ABOVE SEEMS TO SHOW IT PRINTING OK. True, but it is not exactly a significant upgrade in stiffness. A Mendel90 or MendelMax would be.by yydoctt - General
To be honest, I do not know enough about RepRapPro's specific setup. I assume it has its own version of pronterface, with skeinforge linked into the settings menu. From there it should launch skeinforge or slic3r, depending on what they loaded beside it. After you have loaded the slicer (Skeinforge, Cura or Slic3r) from within settings menu of pronterface, google the software and find a guide toby yydoctt - General
Hi, I would make sure the dimensions are correct before making any adjustments. I'd also suggest using Cura or Slic3r to begin with instead of skeinforge (Cura is Skeinforge made easy). Good luck, post back if you have any problems. And please provide pictures of problems, it makes it a lot easier to diagnose.by yydoctt - General
Probably Structural Foam - using PC or PP. You can tell by the surface finish, unless painted. If it is structural foam it will have swirls where it fills the mould - which are harder to notice on darker parts. They're typically formed black to hide the finish. They're injection moulded using a blowing agent, so you will need to track down a pre-existing part. You can cut it down but it will expby yydoctt - General
+1 Or a MendelMax, probably a simpler conversion.by yydoctt - General
B9Creations Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > yydoctt Wrote: > -------------------------------------------------- > ----- > > (Has B9 published source data yet?!) > > Firmware and software source code is available via > www.B9Creator.com (under Documentation) > Working now on manuals and tutorials but plan to > post CAD data as soon asby yydoctt - General
If the Y axis is too short, you need to increase the number of stepsby yydoctt - General
Okay, if you got the printer for RepRapPro - then look here: You have marlin installed, so send M503 in pronterface window. It will spew back your current settings. Then retype this line: M92 X91.429 Y91.429 Z4000.000 E945.000 Changing Y Axis to desired steps.by yydoctt - General
No it is not through hardware, it is through software! I am not sure what board you have, but you need to plug it in to your computer and recompile firmware for it (Marlin, Sprinter, Teacup, Repetier, etc) using the correct motor steps. Post your set up and I can try and point you to the most relevant guide. If it's a kit they will likely provide a preconfigured set up.by yydoctt - General
9mm out of 10 is pretty bad! I would check you are using the right number of motor steps in firmware for XYZ&E. To answer your question, you scale the number of Y steps in firmware. A lot of guides suggest you calibrate via printing a block, but they ignore plastic shrink. You are best off measuring accurately, with verniers, the actual movement of the machine. Good luck!by yydoctt - General
Electrical Hardware - more ARM variants, capable of delivering higher speeds and feeds Materials - Recently there has been exciting experimentation in this area SLA or alternative methods of Additive Prototyping - If we can bring down resin price, I feel this may be the future of the RepRap project - Notable efforts to date are LemonCurry for RepRap and B9Creator for driving the price down (Hasby yydoctt - General
I think some of you are confusing producing a guide/tutorial for publishing open source designs. An open source design simply is a design where the source is released, be it Solidworks, Rhino, OpenScad, etc. The designer shouldn't HAVE to walk everyone through the whole process to be labelled open source, this certainly does not happen with open source software.by yydoctt - General
> > > Printing 0.1 with 0.4 is doable, but not the > > best > > > scenario. > And what part of what I just said is "not true"? > You just confirmed that it is doable, but you > compromise. When you said it's not an ideal scenario that's completely subjective, time may not be an issue and models may not have small features, printing at low layer heights would inby yydoctt - General
Muhk Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Thank you for your anwsers, > > ok I will buy the MendelMax 2.0 to be upgradable > in the future and to fit my requirements. Great, I'm sure it will be a great experience! > > Before minutes I thought that a small layer height > is essential to get smoother surfaces. (thanks for > clarification) No,by yydoctt - General
MPower Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Printing 0.1 with 0.4 is doable, but not the best > scenario. Not true, it's perfectly fine and usually encouraged. It simply affects min. wall thickness which may impact small features and takes longer to print. > Btw, layer height doesn't relate to surface > smoothness. You can get a nice flat-ish surface >by yydoctt - General
Idolcrasher Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Synchro mesh looks pretty cool > > I use GT2 Belts and they stretched on me over 3-4 > months. > > Are they done stretching? Maybe? > > Would I prefer a product that does not stretch at > all? Certainly. How much did it stretch? I haven't witnessed any myself in over a year and I haveby yydoctt - General
Holy shit that's cool, I've never attempted to emboss my prints by such a small distance but it's awesome to see the level of detail one can expect. I would have expected the edges to blur but they are fairly defined for such a small inset. Gorgeous and consistent layers btw, excellent printer.by yydoctt - Tantillus
Aliexpress is good and pretty secure. Just treat it like eBay and Paypal, go through the right process and you are covered (buy through aliexpress, pay through aliexpress)by yydoctt - General
It's just held at either end of the bed and the motor/pulley acts on the centre of the belt. Here's a video to help clarify:by yydoctt - General
Dirty Steve Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Being taken over by Makerbot........who needs > 1000's of frigging I(diot)Phone cases?? Being taken over? It was always theirs... They're trying to assert a brand image, which is fair enough. As long as they don't FUBAR their terms and conditions again then I don't see how this branding change makes a difference.by yydoctt - General
Hi Simono, people call this problem Z wobble. And there will be 100's of cases on the internet (thingiverse, g-groups etc.) I suggest googling 'Z wobble, Mendelmax' through the mentioned sites and see what solutions others have come up with. I have dealt with this in the past by moving to smaller threaded rods, but you probably have Acme rods and may want to continue using them. Good luck!by yydoctt - General
Good info sublime, I have a printer that I'm converting to bowden and will find this information priceless, thanks for sharing. Parabolic - you should be able to move your X carriage way faster than 100mm/s! People tend not to print too much faster than 100mm/s on non-bowen setups but it is quite typical to have a travel speed of 300mm/s. Perhaps you have too much friction by misaligned guides/rby yydoctt - General
I hope I am not alone in finding it poor etiquette posting sales on other people's threads, start your own and allow the discussion to focus on the ops topic. Adventure - do you have videos you can link to, it would be interesting to see how your welded scaled design handles wobble.by yydoctt - For Sale
If your extrusion is calibrated leave it alone, there should only be a 'fudge' (Swell) factor for ABS. Your retraction is very long, aim anywhere below 1mm and as fast as your extruder reliably allows. If your retraction needs to be that long to prevent ooze, then you are probably running your extruder marginally too hot.by yydoctt - General
Simba Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Agree with the above poster. > All I can add is that cheap filament has shard of > old used junk added to it. You can tell when you > compare white vs. black. They hide stuff in the > black apparently. Once a plastic is molten, it > can not be re-molten properly if it is aged. So > that begs the questiby yydoctt - General
IanJohnson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Slic3r often generates infill that has no hope of > sticking to the bed without a raft. I hate > peeling rafts off of prints, but I would > appreciate a raft for support option that > surrounds the print without going under it. It sounds like you mean the Brim feature I think Sound's priorities are corby yydoctt - General
I think the main quarrel is their lack of updates (it must be months between choosing a grinder and showing a near-final prototype, there should have been updates between), I did not revisit their site when posting and see that they are once again making progress!by yydoctt - General
Very impressive, you should take a look at the cross sections and make sure they are circular. But if you are getting such consistent results then it must be assumed that it is. Your motivation for this is the price of ABS filament? There are a few sources that are cheaper than 15USD a kilo of spooled filament (granted they are Chinese suppliers), perhaps you can find an even better price for theby yydoctt - General
Ah, I thought it was more like SFact, where the maths that drives the modules had been altered. Good to know, thanks.by yydoctt - General