Hi Headbutt, Firmwares, such as Marlin and Sprinter limit the possible Z height. There are no pre-warnings so don't try and print something too large for your printer (as defined in firmware) otherwise it will just stop. You are going to run into stability issues with a Mendel design using threaded rods at those sizes, it will be fairly wobbly, limiting your speed or print quality significantlyby yydoctt - General
Okay in that case would you be willing to name your source? I know the plastic I got was from eSun, I was in HK at the time and corresponded with them frequently. They are a great company, slightly unreliable but good filament, except for white. The low temperatures required for PLA is great, except for white which will not stick at low temperatures and will cook at 180 degrees, making it a painby yydoctt - For Sale
Lucastar, as you point out in the Puppy thread that configuration of software is probably not going to suit most people. The programs also need to be downloaded and updated through GIT (if they are not already), to keep up to date. It is essential to have Printrun and Slic3r, perhaps you can ask Kooliepup to submit a how-to so we can publish are own distros. Good workby yydoctt - General
The extruder design is critical, you are right but you are referring to the hot-end design, I assume GITRDUN will be using a makergear hot end or one of the other proven designs The melting zone in these hot-ends are focused at the tip but residual heat from the core will rise to the extruder, unless of course you have an 8cm long hot end ! GITRDUN: As Entropy says you can probably get away witby yydoctt - General
I do not wish to uncover your source but merely would like to know if your PLA is from eSun? I wish to order some white PLA and have tried all of eSun's colours (as of Dec 2011) and white simply is unprintable.by yydoctt - For Sale
GITRDUN, the warping we are talking about is not during the actual print, it is through its use. Being that close to a 150+ degree heat source warps the extruder over time, probably not in every case but certainly in mine (makergear hot end with wooden mounting bracket). Luckily you have a second printer so if it warps you can print it again perhaps out of ABS or try something new! Good luckby yydoctt - General
You might want to give it a big wide base manually so it is firmly attached to the bed, and attempt printing it straight up in two atleast two pieces. A toothbrush, well the ones I use, tend not to have any unprintable overhangs so it should be fine. If the model starts to wobble then you may want to slow it down, use Z lift and/or split it into several pieces. Alternatively you can split it inby yydoctt - General
Direct drive without a gearbox will probably never give consistent results (which I presume is what you are testing misan), GITRDUN is using a makergear plastruder which uses a gearbox Nema 17. GITRDUN - I have both, a Plastruder and a Gregfrost Remix of Wade's and there is not much in it. I prefer the plastruder as it is slightly easier to use, such as the bolts are turned to prevent you fromby yydoctt - General
HaniC, Welcome! You're going to get a fair amount of mixed opinions on which printer to build, but based on your specifications (price, size and envelope) Prusa is tough to beat. A Huxley afterall, is a scaled (but heavily modified) version of the Prusa, so if you want a bigger envelope then it makes sense to go for a Prusa. Other options to consider would be a Mendel90, but I believe it is biggby yydoctt - General
gerards1111, I really don't see why you feel like you need to make any further comments. Your narrow point of view is very clear and now you are just clogging up this thread, please refrain from commenting further. Sublime - great work, the laser cut version looks fantastic!by yydoctt - General
Sorry to say this but I think that is way overkill. The bearings will certainly help (they are much more forgiving than bushings) but they are loud. 16mm rods are gigantic and heavy though, lm8uu in printed housings (e.g. ) would have sufficed. Better yet you can actually glue lm8uu into the wooden frame as the diameter is not too different. I too suffered from the same Y axis stutter as you andby yydoctt - General
I'm not sure, but I think StepSticks can only do up to 1/8 microstepping (so 1600 steps per revolution). You may find this calculator useful for the calibration of XYZ and E:by yydoctt - General
I agree that heatshrink tubing with braiding can make your wiring look great, I've been doing it myself on my second printer, a MendelMax: It is relatively inexpensive but can be time consuming to remove connectors, heatshrink and braid, then redo the connectors. It takes no time at all if your motors come without connectors. You can also slip 6mm tubing and braiding over 2 and 3 pin connectoby yydoctt - General
All the STL's needed are here: - lm8uu version is "preferred" (uses LM8UU linear bearings). You shouldn't post your email on the internet unless you are looking for spam! Following a topic is much easier, you get automatic emails when someone posts a reply (you're lucky your email is formatted incorrectly!)by yydoctt - General
that wont have been necessary if you're using arduino 1.0, in which case it will rename it back to .ino when you save, which is fine! So all you need to do is update the steps for whichever axis pulley you changed and re-upload!by yydoctt - General
If you're using Arduino 1.0 the file will be a .ino instead of .pdeby yydoctt - General
You may also find this tool useful (to check your maths)by yydoctt - General
nb99 Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > the implication from the original post was that > this was not a purchase from Botmill, but "from > someone who never used it.", (a cooperative seller > by the sound of it) > so the delivery problems of "bought from source" > botmills should not apply. Ah yes I missed that, in that case you may have more lucby yydoctt - General
Firstly it pays to do your research, searching the forums or google for botmill brings up a lot of very unfavourable reviews, they are to be avoided at all costs! - Anyone Have BotMill Feedback? - BOTMILL is a NIGHTMARE - Any BotMill joy yet ...? 3D Systems recently acquired Botmill, which is the reason that you're not going to have to wait 8 months to receive your printer, and the quality hby yydoctt - General
Hi, RepG doesn't work out of the box with Sprinter firmware. I suggest you use pronterface which is available at: pronterface is and precompiled for windows (without sfact) at & precompiled for OSX (without sfact) at However, you can get RepG to work if you follow this link:by yydoctt - General
JoeDaStudd Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Check out nophead's Mendel90, he's due to release > the files soon. > It looks like a very simple and effective build, > it should translate over pretty well into metal. I'd agree that the Mendel90 may be the best route for you, it's going to be a superb printer. DIY is always much more fun! It can be toughby yydoctt - General
I always recommend Prusa Mendel's, they are fast (with well picked components), reliable (if built well), have a tonne of upgrade potential, are the cheapest option and are the most popular (so tonnes of support). That being said if you do not buy a kit and do not build it well, they can be horrifically unreliable. Based on your considerations where price does not seem to be much of a factor, yoby yydoctt - General
You may have a partial block, just had one myself. Take apart the extruder and hot end. The first block I had was in the extruder, the second in the hotend. The former required drilling, the latter I simply forced through filament with as much force as I could and it popped out, though I'm sure there are other ways without drilling. They both stemmed from overheating the filament. Good Luckby yydoctt - General
This may or may not be helpful, but there is a new version of slic3r if you are not already using it Quote0.6.0 is out! Improvements: much better overlap between infill and perimeters in those situations where previous version was still producing gapsby yydoctt - General
Marlin (start with 0.9 not 1!) it is basically the same as sprinter but makes nicer prints - you can find it at: Choices: Slic3r, Skeinforge, SFACT. I would say avoid SFACT, it is buggy at the best of times. Skeinforge has way too many settings (but is the most fully featured). Slic3r is simple and currently gives the best prints out of the box. I guess I would recommend slic3r, although I curreby yydoctt - General
How are you going to overcome die swell? The images show a series of rollers, though that will simply squish the filament in one direction, making the cross section an oblong - unless I'm missing something? It's a project that has been discussed a few times here, that I've seen, so congratulations for committing to making one.by yydoctt - General
Since you have wades I would agree it is too low, and really the higher the number the better. I guess that the extruder has no microstepping on. Have you checked the extruder driver, as long as the motor has enough torque (about 50Ncm) then 1/16th microstepping is preferred. 41*16 = 656. It seems to me that your extruder is on full steps and therefore none of the jumpers are enabled. Bad solderby yydoctt - General
Possenier, you have not done the most important step yet, calibrating e_Steps_mm. 700 as a generalised figure is okay but it is dependant on your extruder. What extruder do you have? If it's not geared than 700 is a very large number for e_Steps_mm (for example). Mark your filament at 20mm increments from the extruder (or anywhere it is easy to repeat measurements). In RepG tell it to extrude,by yydoctt - General
Hi Bob, Those are some nice looking prints. It simply looks like your first layer is too high. You want to squish the plastic onto the platform a little. Experiment with the initial height until you're pleased with the results. Regarding the infill > It's really hard to see with the reflections (black is awful to photograph!). The solution will depend on your slicer, assuming you are using Sby yydoctt - General