Category:FoldaRap Development
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Some other ideas I wanted to try, or may try some days :
Contents
- 1 Use plastic tubing for Z-coupling : adopted
- 2 Replace the M6 Z-threaded rods by M5 : adopted
- 3 Replace the steel stubs by aluminium plain rods : working
- 4 Motor cooling
- 5 Print Cooling : working
- 6 Replace the 6.8 ohm resistor (=20W@12v) : working
- 7 Adding two LED stripes
- 8 Store basic tools in the frame
- 9 Dual hotend
- 10 Autonomous printing
- 11 Printed Handle
- 12 Versions
Use plastic tubing for Z-coupling : adopted
http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?283,151801,151837
Pro : cheap, 2 printed part in less, also 8 m3x20, 8 m3 washer and 8 m3 nut in less... interesting !
Cons : 2 more non-printed-part (you are still free to choose what you prefer)
Replace the M6 Z-threaded rods by M5 : adopted
With the above flexible coupling you can choose M5 or M6 with the same coupling.
Pros : use the same M5 nuts as on the pneumatic fittings (less different parts), finer z-step-mm, also easier to put in the tubing (-> maybe less grip on it).
Cons : M6 = faster z-speed (maybe less blobs at layer change ?)
Replace the steel stubs by aluminium plain rods : working
Cons : more prone to bend (but at 300mm and with our light loads...), need bushings
Pros : cheaper, lighter, easier to source, easier to cut, bushings makes less noise than lm6uu
Motor cooling
Add 30mm heatsinks :)
Print Cooling : working
- Active cooling with a bowden tube pointing on the x-carriage and the print (e.g.: CDrom-motor-pump + cooling nozzle
- Pros : very compact and very precise cooling, just another tube using the second head slot in a modified reprappro hotend
- Cons : maybe easier to put a fan on the x-carriage
- Have a look at this solution by Okatake : thing47573
- I finally implemented a passive cooling : thing52240
- maybe a simpler solution for an active cooling thing84345
Replace the 6.8 ohm resistor (=20W@12v) : working
By one with a lower ohm (e.g 3 ohm) or even a cartridge heater (12v-40w)
Pro: faster heat-up, allow higher temp (for abs)
Cons: more power consumption
(video using a 03mm nozzle)
Adding two LED stripes
Good for taking pictures or to print at a party
Store basic tools in the frame
Would be convenient
Dual hotend
Autonomous printing
- Battery powered
Printed Handle
Something I was reluctant to adopt since many handles for Ultimaker led to bad things, but after several request here is one ! Larger than the KJN injected handle (more comfort) and seems quite sturdy. It is derived from the FreeDeePee handle.
Versions
May be better to put this on the project page but for the moment it will be here
FoldaRap 1.3
Planned for the next version : Y-gliders on the base frame ! (as tried a little before)
- 2 RP parts in more
- remove the last 2 smooth rods and 3 lm6uu
FoldaRap 1.2
- major changes
- X-axis use a PLA glider x-carriage (new x-carriage, x-ends, z-top, z-motor more rigid)
- threaded rods Z axis are now in the same plane than the Z gliders
- endstop holder for t-slot = glue gun no longer needed
- remove 2 smooth rods and 3 lm6uu
Vitamins :
- x-carriage
- 2 m3x8
- 2 m3x25
- 4 m3 nut
- 2 endstop-holder
- 2 m4 Tnut
- 2 m4x8
- x-motor
- 2 m4 Tnut
- 2 m4x8
- 3 m3x8
- extruder-idler, a RP part in addition
- still 3 m3x10 as before
- x-idler
- 2 m4 Tnut
- 2 m4x8
- 1 m3x20
- 1 603zz
- 2 m3 washer
- 1 mudgardwasher
- 1 m3 nylock
FoldaRap1.1
- major changes
- y-carriage is now lasercutted instead of printed (stop loosing the linear bearing, perfect distance, but no more nut trap)
- extruder motor is now fixed to nema14 while a PG35L was used before
- minor change
- printed parts have been simplified (removed the arrow shape that was hard to print with good tolerance to fit the extrusion channel, also more universal now), and reduced in volume (3mm general thickness, was 4mm)
- and a lot of little things [3]
Pages in category "FoldaRap Development"
The following 7 pages are in this category, out of 7 total.