Precision Piezo Z-probe Now available.

@ Moriquendi:

Hi, thanks a lot. Can you tell me with my numbers which one is for what 1-5??

Thanks.

BG kami

The top two are the diodes, BAV99, the bottom two are the transistors BSS138.

Idris

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{Precision Piezo} Accurate, repeatable, versatile z-probe plus piezo discs, endstop cables, pt100, 50w heaters.

HI,

thanks a lot. And the number 5 the one diode which type is this?

Cu kami

As mentioned in my previous post it's an RB521s

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{Precision Piezo} Accurate, repeatable, versatile z-probe plus piezo discs, endstop cables, pt100, 50w heaters.

i search for long time a mount for my ender 5 with Micro swiss Direct Drive and all metal hotend,is there anything for mount it on my system ?

thanks

Ahh, sorry. Thanks a lot.

BG kami

I just got a new one after managing to break my old one. However the new one does seem to trigger at all times the blue light is always lit. Anyone got a clue whats going on? Its the same mounted to not mounted and the pot seems to do nothing.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/07/2021 01:39PM by Jamorro.

@Jamorrow,

Which product are you having issues with?

@Luigello,

I think I responded to an email from you but in case that was someone else:

I have a mount for the microswiss hotend here (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4258918) but I do not believe it will be compatible with the DD extruder. The Orion relies on being between the hotend and the rest of the mount and I do not believe there is room here.

Idris

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{Precision Piezo} Accurate, repeatable, versatile z-probe plus piezo discs, endstop cables, pt100, 50w heaters.

@Moriquendi
Well, it’s not the Orion module that causes these issues. The noise is on all signals and supplies. It occurs every time 2.1 us (460 kHz). I completely detached the Orion module which did not change anything. Then I changed to a dc power supply from the laboratory which didn’t change anything either. Even if I keep the reset button of the controller board pressed, the noise is still there.
I changed a lot since the last successful run on this machine:
- updated the controller board from the tronxy chitu stuff to marlin
- changed from the contactless z stop switch to the Orion
- changed from a titan bowden drive to a remote drive

So I guess, the emi it not being caused by
- the power supply since swapping didn’t change anything
- the Orion module since detaching didn’t help and it’s on all signals on the controller board
- the firmware since it didn’t help to keep the microcontroller asleep by pressing the reset button
- any fan since it is still there even if no fan is running

Has anyone any idea?

Are you able to try another oscilloscope?

Do you use fluorescent lighting?

Idris

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{Precision Piezo} Accurate, repeatable, versatile z-probe plus piezo discs, endstop cables, pt100, 50w heaters.

Well, I used a different oscilloscope than 5 weeks ago and both showed the same results. We got fluorescent tubes at work but the issue also occurred at home (only recognized the z stop issue, I don’t own an oscilloscope). I will try with lights turned off tomorrow.

I have found a signal that switches with every emi pulse that I see on the z stop. It’s the output of the dc dc step down converter (MP1584EN) that converts the 24 V of the power supply to the 5 V needed for the microcontroller. I guess that this signal itself is not causing the emi but rather the current that runs though the cables from the power supply to the controller board in that moment. However, I broke something while measuring: there is no 5 V being generated anymore. The 24 V supply still works and if I switch to USB-supply, the rest of the board still works as well. So I guess I shorted the step down converter or some part close to it.

Moriquendi, I am curious about the four hex nut shaped objects at the four corners of the Orion mount top plate .... do they serve a purpose in anything other than possibly a delta printer?

Thanks

Do you mean on the screw top plate?

Idris

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{Precision Piezo} Accurate, repeatable, versatile z-probe plus piezo discs, endstop cables, pt100, 50w heaters.

see attachment

No purpose other than for the attachment of fans, they should not be used to mount the unit.

Idris

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{Precision Piezo} Accurate, repeatable, versatile z-probe plus piezo discs, endstop cables, pt100, 50w heaters.

Hello again.

I don't know how my printer worked before I switched to marlin and updated the hotend/z-stop. When the stepper motors are activated, there's 10 V (peak-peak) noise all over the place, also in the 5 V part of the control board. It does not come from the motor cables: Detaching them from the board does not make any difference. My guess is: switching the 24 V for the steppers creates noise on the 24 V part that causes even the 5 V part to have the same noise which then spreads everywhere. I don't know what else to do, so I used the situation and purchased a control board that hat silent steppers and does not need endstop switches.

Best

Jan

This sounds more like a defective switching regulator than anything else. Is the 5v converter on the main board?

Idris

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{Precision Piezo} Accurate, repeatable, versatile z-probe plus piezo discs, endstop cables, pt100, 50w heaters.

It was. As I said, I destroyed the regulator while measuring. I then added an external that could handle 5A but it was still the same.

The new control board arrived today but none of the connectors fits and the pin mapping is wrong so I ordered these. This printer totally pisses me off.

Just trying to assemble my Orion, and apparently there is enough blobbing on the inside of the springy bottom part that grabs the heatsink groove mount that it won't close all the way, so the holes won't line up for screwing on the top parts. Any better solution than 3D printing a tiny custom sanding block just the shape of an E3D groove mount?

Update: My silly sanding block did work, here's my Orion experience so far: To Orion and Beyond

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/05/2021 05:22PM by Claghorn.

All this talk of noise has me worried. I have to run a few feet of cable through cable chains to reach my smoothieboard. Should I use some sort of shielded cable (maybe a shielded USB cable and cut the ends off). Any minimum wire gauge recommended?

The noise being discussed was the result of a defective switch mode regulator, not something you're likely to experience. You won't need to take any special precautions with the digital output of the Orion.

Idris

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{Precision Piezo} Accurate, repeatable, versatile z-probe plus piezo discs, endstop cables, pt100, 50w heaters.

Well it was the tronxy board in general. Swapping the power supply made it better but still faulty. Now I switched to a SKR mini E3 v2.0 and that works great (and no noise). The electrical part is ready now. However, I am still not up and running. The orion is dialed in so sensitive that it triggers when I move next to the table the printer stands on. But when I try to use the Orion, the bed moves into the hot end and beyond until it triggers. Also the Orion feels more sensitive to touches from the side than from below.

I guess my custom designed print head is not great. 1st the hollow ring ring in which the Orion can “bend” has a wider diameter than the parts that came with the module. And 2nd some screw wholes do not fit which makes it all too wobbly.

I’ll report back as soon as I had time to redraw and print the print head parts

Best

Jan

Success! I got the cable hooked up to the smoothieboard and configured it as a z probe, and it seems to work great. A G30 moves the bed up till it just barely taps the nozzle, then the bed moves back down. Time to adjust my Z offset and startup code and see if I can really print things with proper thickness first layers without lots of fiddly adjustments.

I have a Piezo on my printer. The board detects movement on the hot end as it shoulds and flashes blue, however the control board isn't responding. With a multimeter on the signal line it shows 2.55v, but this doesn't change when the sensor triggers? Should I be able to see it drop to 0V?

@Jhonno

Which version of the board do you have?

Idris

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{Precision Piezo} Accurate, repeatable, versatile z-probe plus piezo discs, endstop cables, pt100, 50w heaters.

Quote
Moriquendi
@Jhonno

Which version of the board do you have?

Idris

V2.85

I have been playing tonight.. With the board connected to "A" with 5V feed. I get 2.55V on the signal line. Which actually increases to about 3.5v when the Piezo is pressed. Signal on "D" shows 0V untriggered.

@Jhonno

Please can you double check your wiring, you should be connected to the pins labelled D, the A pins are currently only usable with RepRapFirmware. The behaviour you're seeing on the A line is normal.

The digital output requires a pull up resistor otherwise it will remain at 0v. Which LEDs are lit?

Idris

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{Precision Piezo} Accurate, repeatable, versatile z-probe plus piezo discs, endstop cables, pt100, 50w heaters.

Quote
janth
The orion is dialed in so sensitive that it triggers when I move next to the table the printer stands on. But when I try to use the Orion, the bed moves into the hot end and beyond until it triggers. Also the Orion feels more sensitive to touches from the side than from below.

Jan. Did you ever get it to work and did you find the cause of the problem?

I have exactly the same problem as you. The Orion is more sensitive to side movements than to the probing up/down. I’ve also dialled it in so sensitive that it usually registers if I walk beside the printer. Usually any bed movement in the Z direction (corexy) is enough to trigger the Orion. But if I use any less sensitivity the Orion won’t register the probing and the nozzle will damage my bed.

I’ve tried printing several mounts to see if it fixes anything but still the same problem. Loosening of the screws won’t help either.

I had a lot of leftover plastic blobbing and ends of supports in my orion mount. I 3D printed a custom sanding block in the shape of the E3D and used it to sand off the blobs. I don't know if I problem like that might keep the orion from being able to flex correctly or not, but maybe something to check. Here's my experience (showing the sanding block about half way down the page): [tomhorsley.com]