Cherry Pi III Is Available

Thanks for the suggestions, I will let you know how I get on.

Matt

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mrorange26
So will have to run another pair of cables for the all metal hot end as currently my fan goes on and off

Not necessarily. The new effector design doesn't make provision for a part cooling fan. Use those wires for your hot end fan. Just connect them to a permanent 12V supply rather than to D9 on your RAMPS board.

Ok thanks.I printed it in pla as long as it's cooled ok.it shouldn't warp or should I get it in abs.

fan or not, PLA should not wrap.

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- Sebastien Plante (nka)

Ok thanks

Large PLA parts do warp if you have a draught over the bed. Many Ormerod owners have added an inlet duct to the hot end cooling fan, to prevent backwash from the fan causing large PLA prints to warp.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

You're right... I was righting that I never had any wrap, but it's not true, so I erased my line to write those one.

I did once a on part, unsticked from the bed on a corner... but only once!

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- Sebastien Plante (nka)

Here are pictures of my abs attempts, any ideas ?

[drive.google.com]

[drive.google.com]

thanks

Matt

Got the same problems with PLA?

part seems to be well stick to the bed... but seems to have over/under extruded at some place.

Is the extruder calibrated?

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- Sebastien Plante (nka)

No, no issues at all with PLA, but this is the first time I have tried ABS through it.

I can try and re-calibrate the extruder if you think it will help.

If it works with PLA, I'd think that rules out both extruder calibration, and what I was about to suggest, which was tuning the PID settings.

As one who had problems with ABS in the past, I'd suggest playing with wildly different temperatures. I was surprised that I had to set my system for 270C at one point, and then another spool worked far better at 260. On a different head I had a while back I was using 235, so I think there are differences with my thermistor and perhaps its true thermal profile.

But try some other temperatures and see if things change. On mine, I've found I get the best print when the head is just hot enough for the plastic to start having a strong "hot ABS" odor to it.

Well, the print looks much better at 270, I also put the print speed up. However as soon as the head got near the print bed the mirror cracked, might be time for a aluminium build plate :/

[drive.google.com]

Anybody know where to get 300mm diameter aluminium heat beds

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Matt,Wheatley
ABS Help

Has anybody managed to print ABS with their cherry pi. I want to print the new all metal hot end mount and appear to be having issues with layers being a little bitty. I was wondering if people had used ABS and if so what there print settings might be.

I have tried temp at 240, bed 110 with the fan off but the layers don't appear very even.

I just printed the latest effector that Andy posted the other day. ABS, 235C hotend, 110C bed, 0.1mm layer height (to get the ball socket holes clean/smooth), 60mm/sec, no part cooling fan, and the heat sink fan on the E3Dv5 running full speed. Everything but the overhangs near the glass bed came out perfect on the effector base. The two bracket pieces always have problems on the overhangs that are supposed to grab the hotend's mounting slot, and I have always needed to clean them up with a file before use.....

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Matt,Wheatley
Well, the print looks much better at 270, I also put the print speed up. However as soon as the head got near the print bed the mirror cracked, might be time for a aluminium build plate :/

[drive.google.com]

Anybody know where to get 300mm diameter aluminium heat beds

Matt

You could get one of these 300mm diameter Heater and one of these Round Aluminium Blanks and an Solid State Relay to switch the bed.

Not a cheap way of doing it mind another option is to go slightly larger say 330 dia and one of these Kapton 230x230 heater Ally blank from same place as above.

Hope this helps.

Doug

Doug

Thanks, I had a spare glass which I have now switched out. I'll stay away from ABS for the time being , but I will order the Aluminium blank, I have some 260 Diameter silicone heaters that I custom ordered from china and have already installed a SSR onto the heater as the ramps board was cutting out when I originally tried to get the heat bed over 90 Degrees.

Thanks

Matt

Wish I had known that I have been struggling to get one had 2 orders in now with Aliexpress that have both been canceled due to non shipment although the supplier when I tried to cancel the second one refused saying it was in production what eh so I have this morning ordered a 300mm 220VAC one If I had known I would have had one of yours of you.

Do you have access to any Machining facilities cos the blank I got was not the flattest (It has a slight bow in it) but I know of a supplier of ECOCAST plate which is machined on both side to thickness and they are dead flat but they cant do round as far as I know only Rectangular/Square.

Hope the package arrives ok

You may be better looking at 230V silicone mats for the larger heated beds if you want to get to ABS bed temps. I switch mine, on my core XY machines, with a small relay and set the firmware to bang bang mode. The bed stays within a degree of target providing you have an aluminium sheet between the mat and the glass to act as a heat mass. The last one I bought was 400mm x 400mm 1000W 220V and cost about fifty quid shipped.

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AndyCart
You may be better looking at 230V silicone mats for the larger heated beds if you want to get to ABS bed temps. I switch mine, on my core XY machines, with a small relay and set the firmware to bang bang mode. The bed stays within a degree of target providing you have an aluminium sheet between the mat and the glass to act as a heat mass. The last one I bought was 400mm x 400mm 1000W 220V and cost about fifty quid shipped.

Yep got one of those ready for my CoreXY Machine was looking for a 400mm round on for my Larger Slice of Pi but really struggling to get one but have a 300 dia one on order and it will sit on a 5mm thick 400mm dia Ally plate under a 400mm dia candle mirror when it arrives?

Doug.

One of the things I love about 3D printers, is the ability to tweak things and replace parts with your own designed pieces. Being ever the tinkerer, I have been busy tinkering over the last week....

First up, I beefed up my Smoothieboard mounts, making them wider and thicker...


Next up I tweaked the spool mount, so that it was a bit taller and can also be fitted after assembly (it can also be to slid up the profile if needed)...


Lastly, not being keen on using the motors to tension the belt, I came up with an adjustable belt tensioner built into the rod carrier...


I haven't fitted the new rod carriers/carriages yet, so I won't post the files until I verify they actually work, but if anyone wants anything else, please just ask.

Regards,

Les

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Pointy's Things
Pointy's Blog

You have been busy! Very nice mods. I may just pinch your rod carrier when it's out of beta!!!

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AndyCart
I may just pinch your rod carrier when it's out of beta!!!

I don't see any reason why they won't work, but you never know. You will sacrifice 10mm of build height though, as I had to make them taller to incorporate the adjuster.

I should mention that the design was inspired by P4tje, I saw his pictures on page 13 and noticed he had built adjustable belt tensions in his carriages. He very kindly sent me the files, and while I didn't use them as I liked your two part design, it did inspire me, so thanks again P4tje.

Regards,

Les

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Pointy's Things
Pointy's Blog

very nice les! I may switch to the smootie someday!

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- Sebastien Plante (nka)

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nka
very nice les! I may switch to the smootie someday!

Today is some day! In case you missed it, Arthur Wolf has a *very* limited time special offer up on the Google Deltabot forum:

https://groups.google.com/d/msg/deltabot/WNTOnAk4jZM/PeHAJ6KaxVcJ

Basically, he is offering a coupon code for both the European and North American web stores that will get you quantity 100 wholesale pricing on Smoothieboards and accessories. That translates to about $104 USD ( normally $135 ) for 4XC, and about $123 ( normally $170 ) for 5XC. The deal ends in less than 48 hours, so get on board while it's still open if you're serious about trying out Smoothie. The coupon code will also include the same discount for accessories purchased with each order from the European store, such as the RRD GLCD adapter board and the optional 1000mA voltage regulator to run a GLCD from the board's power. (There is no confirmation that the North American store will offer this discount on accessories.)

It bears mentioning that he promised an additional break (quantity 200 wholesale pricing) if 100+ boards are committed, bringing the price down a little bit more. At the moment, there are over 75 boards committed, so the final price may even be lower.....

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Pointy
I don't see any reason why they won't work, but you never know. You will sacrifice 10mm of build height though, as I had to make them taller to incorporate the adjuster.

Would moving the ball sockets and spring retainer to the top of the carriage plate gain some of that 10mm back?????

vreihen: Oh thanks, Ive signed for a 5xC Canada!

The 5xC will be use on the new printer... Wish I could get a 4xC for the delta too... but no budget for now :p


I will also need the panel for GLCD later

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- Sebastien Plante (nka)

I was about to order another Azteeg X5 Mini ($109) for the enclosed HotBot2 I'm building, but the 4XC has equivalent functionality for $5 less on this deal and the 5XC that I ordered for future dual extruders was only a few dollars more. After reading a few posts recently where people were complaining that they couldn't solder some parts on the Smoothieboard because it was such a good conductor of heat to keep the stepper drivers cool, I decided that I had to have a genuine Smoothieboard and not the Azteeg or the other compatibles in case I wind up mounting the board near the heated chamber.

TriDPrinting offered to buy 30+ if they are allowed to and it will help the order get over 100 boards for the 200-piece wholesale pricing. I doubt that it will be a significant price cut at that tier, but maybe it will cover the shipping or something.....

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nka
very nice les! I may switch to the smootie someday!

Don't forget the Duet! It's the only board at present to have good web interface and precise calculation of steps for delta movements implemented in the firmware. And of course it's 32 bits, with digital motor current control, native USB port, SD card slot etc.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Quote
vreihen

Quote
Pointy
I don't see any reason why they won't work, but you never know. You will sacrifice 10mm of build height though, as I had to make them taller to incorporate the adjuster.

Would moving the ball sockets and spring retainer to the top of the carriage plate gain some of that 10mm back?????

Yes I believe it would, in fact I thought about putting them in the middle as this would be the strongest part of the carriage. At the moment with both designs, one of the rod holders has no support behind it, which probably doesn't matter as it would take a lot of force to bend a total of 17mm of plastic.

Regards,

Les

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Pointy's Things
Pointy's Blog

Quote
AndyCart

Quote
mrorange26
Hi Andy what all metal hotend do you use and do you have a modified holder for it .

I use this hotend [www.aliexpress.com]

and this heated bed [www.aliexpress.com]

I'm very pleased with both of them

I have ordered the heated bed.

How are you mounting a bed thermistor?

Regards,

Les

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Pointy's Things
Pointy's Blog

Quote
vreihen

Quote
Pointy
I don't see any reason why they won't work, but you never know. You will sacrifice 10mm of build height though, as I had to make them taller to incorporate the adjuster.

Would moving the ball sockets and spring retainer to the top of the carriage plate gain some of that 10mm back?????

For what it's worth, I've made a design that does exactly that.
Look here:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:518398


It's got an effector of my own design in it, but more specifically, those rod carriers move the sockets to the top of the plate. I designed it with the same rod spacing as the existing Cherry Pi III effector, so it works as a direct swap-out. You just have to flip the v-wheel carriages over so the hole mounts line up.

So if you want to, you can use my rod carriers with Andy's J-head effector and gain a bit more Z-space.