Quote
ohecht
OK, I spent the day adjusting the end stops and changing the Smooth Rod Offset to get the printer to print on a flat plane even with out autoleveling...so far so good on my first large test print, but the nozzle is staying at the same height all the way across the print. I ended up with these offsets at 180mm, which seems huge, but that's the number that allowed me to get the print head the same distance off the bed near each of the 3 towers and in the middle with no concave or convex areas between the 3 outer points and the center of the bed...

Here are the new problems I'm having:

- I'm using Slic3r within Repetier Host, and the custom code for the autolevel is in the configurations there, but it's not going into the G-code when I slice the files.

- When I try to use the autolevel, it looks like it's trying to go off the print bed. I also have objects start off way outside my print area when I bring them into Repetier...I have to zero out the X, Y, and Z axes to get the objects near the middle of the print area...I wonder if these two are related somehow I'm still not sure I have all my print area dimensions right, even though I've been through the configuration manual and screen shots many times by now.

- I noticed I can't move the print head less than .2mm during all of my calibrations. Is this the limitation of the 36-tooth pulleys and why most people seem to prefer 20-tooth pulleys?

Thanks again for all the help...I'd just like to get the autolevel working to fine-tune my already close physical calibrations and then learn how to use the software more effectively with positioning objects, etc.

Olivier

Hey, I'm successfully running my kit, but I was one of the first few who built the kit without any form of support. I was just reading about your problem and I was wondering if you have added G29 in the custom G-code part of slic3r. You have to remember that G28 resets the autolevel codes so the G29 should come after the G28. I can't tell you more about the 36 tooth pulley as I gave up on it the very second I was not able to move the head at 0.1mm increments.

Thanks Unnokeng. I gave up on the auto-level function for a while since I don't seem to need it now that I got my "flatness" problem physically calibrated. I went through the routine of moving the endstops ever so slightly and adjusting the Smooth Rod Offset (ended up at what seems like a huge number...180mm), but the end result is that I can print perfectly flat across the build platform. Now I'm focusing on temperature calibrations...I have it dialed in perfectly for white PLA, but the black stuff (also a different brand) was not feeding reliably so I need to add a few more colors to my bag of tricks by getting the right temp settings everywhere. I was using G29, but the probe was trying to run off the platform. I think I need to double-check the probe points, but it's not a priority now as I don't seem to need it too much. One thing I never understood about G29 was whether it was just running the autoprobe function and gathering the data points, or if it was also changing the actual settings in the firmware or elsewhere to compensate for those readings...I never got a clear answer on that although it reads like G29 just takes care of it all.

About the .1mm resolution...are you saying that you never used 36-tooth pulleys because you knew it would prevent you from making .1mm changes?

Thanks again,

Olivier

Quote
ohecht
Thanks Unnokeng. I gave up on the auto-level function for a while since I don't seem to need it now that I got my "flatness" problem physically calibrated. I went through the routine of moving the endstops ever so slightly and adjusting the Smooth Rod Offset (ended up at what seems like a huge number...180mm), but the end result is that I can print perfectly flat across the build platform. Now I'm focusing on temperature calibrations...I have it dialed in perfectly for white PLA, but the black stuff (also a different brand) was not feeding reliably so I need to add a few more colors to my bag of tricks by getting the right temp settings everywhere. I was using G29, but the probe was trying to run off the platform. I think I need to double-check the probe points, but it's not a priority now as I don't seem to need it too much. One thing I never understood about G29 was whether it was just running the autoprobe function and gathering the data points, or if it was also changing the actual settings in the firmware or elsewhere to compensate for those readings...I never got a clear answer on that although it reads like G29 just takes care of it all.

About the .1mm resolution...are you saying that you never used 36-tooth pulleys because you knew it would prevent you from making .1mm changes?

Thanks again,

Olivier

Oliver,
From what I understand with the G29 code is that it modifies the movement inputs on the fly. The numbers that show up on the logs are added directly to the g-code to compensate for any imperfection to the flatness of the bed. Maybe you just need to set the right right offsets for it from the center.
I built my kit originally with the 36-teeth, but I noticed that when I was moving the head down for calibration, it was only moving every other step. I didn't know first hand that I would run into trouble with the pulley. I just had a set of 20-teeth lying around, so I tried them after I saw the problem. With the 36-teeth, I originally used Marlin firmware which I modified myself and put 44.44 for the steps. I saw another modified firmware somewhere else which had 100/2.25 on the steps, which may work better. I read somewhere that Arduino doesn't handle numbers that aren't whole numbers (I cannot confirm this though).
As for temperature, I have been using different PLA brands and have been printing them all at 200 degrees. Although I have been using a geared extruder, which may be the main difference between our setup. I did have trouble with the original extruder and had to print PLA at 210-215 degrees or else it starts jamming.

Quote
mmcginnis9272
Strange, the extruder motor feed coupler and the effector coupler are identical on mine.

That is strange. Mine are definitely different. The coupler on the right is the one I need to replace.

Thanks again Unnokeng. I'd love to know more about your geared extruder in terms of where you got it (or the files to print it) and what other changes you made to make it work...I was looking at those when I was struggling with the black PLA before giving up for a while and printing in white again. My extruder will skip if I look at it funny, so anything that will give me a more reliable feed would be great.

Olivier

Quote
ohecht
Thanks again Unnokeng. I'd love to know more about your geared extruder in terms of where you got it (or the files to print it) and what other changes you made to make it work...I was looking at those when I was struggling with the black PLA before giving up for a while and printing in white again. My extruder will skip if I look at it funny, so anything that will give me a more reliable feed would be great.

Olivier

I used these:
[www.thingiverse.com] for the body and used the gears from this [www.thingiverse.com]. They work pretty well.

I had to change the step of course to 700. The only time it has skipped on me was when I was trying to print carbon fiber ABS, which I eventually gave up on because I could never complete a print even with a 0.6mm tip. Didn't really skip, but when the tip got clogged, the extruder just ate the filament and cut it.

Thanks...I will check that out. I'm a long way from printing carbon fiber, I think!

I changed the distance between the autolevel points in the config.h file from 20 to 10 and the probe is staying on the page but all the probe points are on the +X side of the printer...I can't find any variable in the firmware to determine how to shift those over, and it was working before I made all the adjustment to get the printer to print flat...

Olivier

Hey guys,

Just a quick question, thinking of buying this kit when I come for a visit late in March to the US. anyone can tell me the weight of the package and dimensions - Need to see if I can fit it in my luggage.

Thx

p.s.
tried calling and writing the Folger guys but no answer as of yet.

Quote
ibonneau
Hey guys,

Just a quick question, thinking of buying this kit when I come for a visit late in March to the US. anyone can tell me the weight of the package and dimensions - Need to see if I can fit it in my luggage.

Thx

p.s.
tried calling and writing the Folger guys but no answer as of yet.

My box was 32" x 10" x 7" and guessing about 16-20 lbs.

Folgertech's customer service is very basic. Has sent replacements for missing or broken parts, but usually answers with just a tracking number.

If you try to price out a kit part by part, I don't see that they make much profit on them. If they were making killing on them, then they could spring for stellar support.

I'm working on the next iteration of firmware based on Rich Cattell's Marlin with auto calibration. This firmware will run an auto calibration that will put the as-built measurements into the firmware. It should remedy any deviations in the true-ness of the machine. It is working, but there's still some bugs to work out. Keep an eye on the drive for a Beta release soon.

The new firmware will support the existing servo, but an induction sensor upgrade is in the works (TBA soon, I hope)

For people that want to manually level the bed, I suggest replacing the 3 acrylic bed spacers with small springs and a washer against the acrylic frame.

As far as firmware goes, if the printer is built to the specs in the V2 manual (and wired that way too) and if you use the V2 firmware (based on your pulley teeth count), the printer will operate normally.


Just a note to the people putting a LCD on their FolgerTech Kossels;
If you have the servo auto-level setup and put a LCD on the RAMPS, the voltage regulator on the arduino may not support the current draw of the servo AND LCD together. The way to fix this is by adding a LM7805 voltage regulator with 2 100uf electrolytic caps (one wired to input and the other wired to output). You can use the main 12V from the power connector on the RAMPS and wire the 5V output to the 5V pin next to the reset switch, bypassing the arduino's voltage regulator.

Switching to the induction sensor from the servo setup will negate having to perform this mod as the sensor draws much less than a servo.

Cheers!

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/17/2015 03:19PM by MakerFront.

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Thanks, Maker. Looking forward to those improvements. I was able to get my printer to print flat without using autolevel and with just the acrylic spacers under the bed by adjusting the end stops and the smooth rod offset.

I am also running the LCD and haven't noticed any power issues, although the LCD seems to only come on when I connect the USB cable and stays on even when the main printer cable is unplugged. I may have to look into that when I want to try stand-alone printing from the SD card...

Olivier

Pulled a couple all nighters getting my printer working over the past couple weeks. Rebuilt the head twice. Flashed the firmware so many times now I might be on an offenders list. Tried all stable and all beta versions of slicers I could find. Getting to know Sketchup on a much more personal level. And lost 4-5 lbs. Sucked in making it work--forgot to eat, sleep and drink.

So far, I'd call it a decent kit. Needs better instructions which they are working on.
Currently, I have over 33 hours of printing, and pushed through 530m of filament (over 1/2 kilo) with a minimal fail rate using PLA.

My random observations.

• Start with PLA and blue painters tape.
• Make sure your vertical rails are all the same distance from the bottom.
• Make sure your end stops trigger and for the right reason and right tower.
• PLA is not the best for the motor holders. Mine are warping from warm motors--even after dialing in the controller boards.
• Don't over tighten the belts. Can lift the lower section.
• If the belts are too loose, the spring can belt the belt back enough to catch the other side.
• Manually level the bed. I added a 5mm wood ply base and then mounted the build plate with three screws and springs at each tower. Then positions the head in each corner. I used a stack of cards to get close. Then dial it back.
• MAKE SURE your endstops are set right so the head doesn't crash into the build plate.
• I added the 2004 LCD display. Two great bonuses. SD card reader and stop button. The SD card reader doesn't go to sleep like a can--or hang. Write to the card directly. Using the USB through the Arduino was very slow.
• Get lots of sleep and rest. My printer is mesmerizing. I loose track of time just watching it print holding a magnifying glass and Cree light. I really know I can do something else, but just get hooked into staring at it. A clear, rested mind is fare more helpful.
• Drink lots of water. Helps with above mesmerization.
• Make sure your filament doesn't bind. You may blame the feed rate.
• The acrylic spool holder easily snaps off.
• Could move the rails up another 20-30cm. But if it's working and you don't NEED the extra height, don't worry about it until your next rebuild.
• A Dremel is your friend. Had to dremel (verb now) the hot end holder to fit it. Dremeled the acrylic to use the suppled M3x8 screws.
• Round hex heads suck. 2mm hex strip easier that 2.5mm socket heads.
• Dremels can make round head screws slotted heads enough to get out.
• SLOW DOWN. Yes, deltas can be fast, but running at full tilt creates more problems that can mask what you need to dial it in. Temperature. I have not calculated or calibrated mine to exact measurement, but PLA on my machine prefers 170-180C. 210 is stringy and saggy.
• Measure your extruder's feed. My was 4x the rate.
• The fan has to be on for PLA. My head jammed twice and had to completely disassemble it. Heating some pieces over the stove to get out the clog.
• Patience is a must. $400 for a kit? I still think it's a deal. Delta printers are sexy.
• Everything can be fixed, repaired, or replaced--With enough time and patience.
• Cura on my Mac generally slices better that Slic3r, but crashes a bit more. And is different. Cura missed some fine lines that Slicer didn't. Try both.
• Repetier is decent firmware for me. It's the path I took and was able to reroute broken screw terminal block.
• DO NOT solder wires that go into screw terminal blocks (first manual suggested it). Trying to tighten it enough to hold the wire, the block broke off. I ended up soldering my fan tot eh empty holes and reroute the hot end to another open block.
• Pratice saying "No. I'm not printing a gun--or chocolate--or pizza."
• You'll want more colors. Practice swapping filament.
• Work with what you have to start. Too easy to see cool add-ons. Get what you have working consistently.
• YOU CAN do other things while it prints. Look away. Don't look into the light.
• Your dog won't be impressed.
• Print hinged parts--or design your own to see. Printed hinges are 'magic' to all who see them.
• Find a useful part you need to start designing. I created a case for my LCD.
• Fluorescent Yellow parts look funky great, but don't photograph that well.
• Keep it moving. Have something for it to print constantly. If nothing else, samples. Marvin. Or 3D plane. Or an elephant.
• Keep cool sample object on your SD -- if you get the cool display -- so you can make and show things at an instant.
• The motors will start saying strange thing to you.
• The USB plug will come out enough let you thing the Arduino is cooked. Check your cables.
• If you are an American--embrace the metric system. I am, but once you get it, the metric system makes much more sense.
• Learn to read a caliper. Measure an check everything.
• Hot ends are HOT!
• Permanent marker is helpful to write settings right on a piece.
• Again, print slower. A good part at 2-3 times the time beats a fast, crappy, failed parts every time.
• Take notes. I try, but forget to often.
• Super helpful print troubleshooting guide
• Marvel at all those that went before us to get us where we are now. We have an amazing machine in our presence. THANK YOU ONE AND ALL!

Quote
ohecht
Thanks, Maker. Looking forward to those improvements. I was able to get my printer to print flat without using autolevel and with just the acrylic spacers under the bed by adjusting the end stops and the smooth rod offset.

I am also running the LCD and haven't noticed any power issues, although the LCD seems to only come on when I connect the USB cable and stays on even when the main printer cable is unplugged. I may have to look into that when I want to try stand-alone printing from the SD card...

Olivier

Glad to hear you're printing!

The LCD only being powered by the USB is due to a bad voltage regulator on the mega. This can happen if you accidentally short it out by reversing the end stop plugs (I've done it, so I speak from experience). There's 2 ways to fix it; replace the regulator on the mega or buy a new mega.

I ran into the LCD and Servo issue, others may not, just figured I'd post it just in case anyone did. I couldn't print untethered from a PC or USB power using the servo which is probably why you haven't seen the issue yet. When the servo is deployed (without being plugged into USB or USB power), it draws more than the regulator on the arduino can provide, resetting the arduino. It looks like a bad board, but it's just lack of power.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 02/17/2015 04:57PM by MakerFront.

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I have un-commenting out the line " #define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER"

using the Folgertech_Kossel_Firmware (V1) and (V2)

and added the library u8glib to Arduino but the 12864 LCD will only light up no information displayed

and then I extracted the files of the u8glib_arduino_v1.17 zip into the Arduino libraries directory. But again

no information on the display of the 12864 I even discounted the servo wire for the servo for Auto leveling.

What else do I have to do to get it to display information?

Possibly the contrast dial on the back is turned down? I bumped mine and thought it was not working and the contrast was just too low to see.

Attached is my config file, but take it with a grain of salt. Some things have change -- you can change eprom settings directly with Repetier-Host. And I rerouted my power for D10 to D9. And my arm length is 272mm--wanted maximum bed reach.

Hopefully it helps a bit.

Quote
rtideas
Possibly the contrast dial on the back is turned down? I bumped mine and thought it was not working and the contrast was just too low to see.

Attached is my config file, but take it with a grain of salt. Some things have change -- you can change eprom settings directly with Repetier-Host. And I rerouted my power for D10 to D9. And my arm length is 272mm--wanted maximum bed reach.

Hopefully it helps a bit.

Thank You rtideas

it was the contrast dial mone was on the front, did not know what that was thought it was just a black screw

i turn it just slightly and there it was information on the screen... anyways thanks again.

Hey Makerfront

The Cura ini file you uploaded to the google drive do I have to install the full version of Cura to use it

or is there a way to import them into the Cura Works slicer built into Repetier Host?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/19/2015 05:53AM by iceman62.

I used Cura to make it, so I think you would have to use the full Cura to use it.

I'd apologize for Cura's shortcomings with the import, but it's out of my control. The import doesn't work quite as it should. You still have to go to Machine Settings and define the round build area, center 0,0 and size.

The ini gets you the basic starting settings for the slicing (pane on the left) populated with decent starting values.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/19/2015 11:19AM by MakerFront.

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Quote
iceman62
Hey Makerfront

The Cura ini file you uploaded to the google drive do I have to install the full version of Cura to use it

or is there a way to import them into the Cura Works slicer built into Repetier Host?

I just renamed the file to the extention that cura wanted and it imported fine. In fact it prints way better than slicer on my windows laptop.

Hello again...quick question for anyone who's tried (and hopefully succeeded) printing the kosselblend.stl file from the Google drive. I'm trying to print some spare parts, and this is the only STL file I've been completely unable to print.

See the attached screenshots. First, the object comes in what looks to be to be upside down...it would need tons of support material to print and even then it doesn't look feasible. I've tried rotating it 180 degrees on the y-axis, which gets it into an orientation that appears more logical for printing but, either way, the g-code is only coming up for part of the object to print. It's as if the main body of the object is below the surface of the print bed and only the code to print the "exposed" portions is being generated by Slic3r. This happens whether I rotate the object or not. I'm also getting a warning from Slic3r that says "Warning: The input file contains a hole near edge 7.075377,-2.733208,16.049738-7.086314,-2.650162,16.049938 (not manifold). You might want to repair it and retry, or to check the resulting G-code before printing anyway.", but I have no idea what that means or what to do about it. I've even tried shifting the object to float above the print surface to try to trick it into generating the right code without any change in results.

Every other STL file I've tried from any source has had the G-code visualization (and resulting print) look like the object in the Object Placement screen. I have tried printing this a few times, and it does follow the G-code visualization (until I stop it).

Thanks,

Olivier

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/19/2015 06:05PM by ohecht.

Overall, this kit has been pretty sweet! I have been able to print at around 250/mms for shorter prints, yet I'm getting major separation, spaghetti, and leans in my taller prints.

I think I've nailed it down to a bad bearing in one of the towers. It seems to stick, or get caught about halfway up... Hopefully the dudes at Folgertech will send me a replacement.

Would there be any other cause of this?

Sorry, I have no experience with Cura, and I've gotten pretty good with Slic3r after a bit of tinkering.

Thanks guys!

Apologies for the double-post...

I haven't gotten the autolevel to work with Marlin FW at all. When I was using the Repetier FW, it worked fine, yet it didn't print nearly as well as the Marlin FW does. When I enter the G29 code, the steppers go nuts and the head swings wildly. It clearly isn't working properly... I've changed the grid size from 20 to 0 in the config.h file, yet I'm still having the same issue.

What gives?

Quote
ohecht
Hello again...quick question for anyone who's tried (and hopefully succeeded) printing the kosselblend.stl file from the Google drive. I'm trying to print some spare parts, and this is the only STL file I've been completely unable to print.

See the attached screenshots. First, the object comes in what looks to be to be upside down...it would need tons of support material to print and even then it doesn't look feasible. I've tried rotating it 180 degrees on the y-axis, which gets it into an orientation that appears more logical for printing but, either way, the g-code is only coming up for part of the object to print. It's as if the main body of the object is below the surface of the print bed and only the code to print the "exposed" portions is being generated by Slic3r. This happens whether I rotate the object or not. I'm also getting a warning from Slic3r that says "Warning: The input file contains a hole near edge 7.075377,-2.733208,16.049738-7.086314,-2.650162,16.049938 (not manifold). You might want to repair it and retry, or to check the resulting G-code before printing anyway.", but I have no idea what that means or what to do about it. I've even tried shifting the object to float above the print surface to try to trick it into generating the right code without any change in results.

Every other STL file I've tried from any source has had the G-code visualization (and resulting print) look like the object in the Object Placement screen. I have tried printing this a few times, and it does follow the G-code visualization (until I stop it).

Thanks,

Olivier

I got it to print but first I had to submit it to the Netfab cloud for repair and the when I got it back it still would not lat totally flat so
I used my netfab on my PC and shaved off a just a tiny bit off he one side and now it prints. I will attached the repaired stl file.

Rotate it to the flat side... No supports

Just ordered one of these a couple days ago, I am really excited to catch up to all you guys! I noticed that some people were complaining about the heated bed not heating up fast or high enough... could this be partially caused because there is no insulation on the back? When I get my kit in I am planning on gluing a piece of 3mm cork rubber gasket material to the back. This is a common recommendation for these types of heaters.

Quote
juicev85
Just ordered one of these a couple days ago, I am really excited to catch up to all you guys! I noticed that some people were complaining about the heated bed not heating up fast or high enough... could this be partially caused because there is no insulation on the back? When I get my kit in I am planning on gluing a piece of 3mm cork rubber gasket material to the back. This is a common recommendation for these types of heaters.

It's not because of the lack of insulation. The bed has copper etching on the back similar to most PCB heaters, although the resistance is too high. I think I read about 2.2 ohms. That's too high of a resistance to create the right amount of heat.

Does the included power supply have a voltage adjustment on it? The RAMPS board and MEGA should be fine up to 14V. If you could bump up the voltage it would help with the higher resistance...

Quote
putnam777
Apologies for the double-post...

I haven't gotten the autolevel to work with Marlin FW at all. When I was using the Repetier FW, it worked fine, yet it didn't print nearly as well as the Marlin FW does. When I enter the G29 code, the steppers go nuts and the head swings wildly. It clearly isn't working properly... I've changed the grid size from 20 to 0 in the config.h file, yet I'm still having the same issue.

What gives?

Make sure you have the correct FW for the amount of teeth on your pulleys, newer kits will be shipping with 20 tooth pulleys, the older ones have 36 tooth pulleys.

If you have 36 tooth pulleys and you try to use the 20 tooth FW, the steps per mm will be wayyyyy off. Causing erratic behavior.

Check the stepper wires against the V2 manual and make sure they are oriented the same way. There are changes between the V1 FW and the V2 FW as far as stepper direction goes.

Lastly, make sure you enter your values into Configuration.h as the config manual explains.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 02/20/2015 03:49PM by MakerFront.

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Quote
juicev85
Does the included power supply have a voltage adjustment on it? The RAMPS board and MEGA should be fine up to 14V. If you could bump up the voltage it would help with the higher resistance...

It does have voltage adjustment, but it's still nothing comparable to other heatbeds. Say at 12volts with 2.2ohms, you're getting 65 watts of power. Bumping the voltage to 14 will only get you 90 watts. Other heatbeds are rated at 1ohm, which gives you 144 watts at 12 volts.

Still having challenges getting mine to just auto home. I have tried making every combination of flipping motor wires without luck, inverting in firmware, wired and rewired, and tripled checked voltage. I suspect the firmware and/or rails.

So, sorry for the newbie questions (at the brink of my frustrations)...

1) How may I confirm how many teeth my motors are?

2) one of my rails is a little rough. I did try to use a paper toil to clear out the rails and then oil after but it still feels like there are burrs. any suggestions for making them "butter-smooth"?

Thanks again...