Yep, 2.2

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Happy Easter. I have V 2.2 also. Can you send me your profile to start using Prusa Slicer. Thank you

Here's my config.

You'll want to make a few changes. I didn't know if I could export it pieces, so there are profiles for my old Prusa i2. You will want to delete those

Also:

On the Printer Settings Tab in the General section, set your bed shape, size and max height.
In the Custom G-code section, setup your Start and End G-code.
In the extruder section, set your nozzle size.

In the Print Settings Tab in Advanced section, change all the Extrusion widths to 0.56

Also in your config.g, add this line to the end

M207 S1.5 F2400 Z0.00

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Thank you Darrel. I'm planning to do the settings today when I got home. I'm going to change tonight the 0.5 nozzle with the new one 0.4 nozzle . I checked the details for delivery and the package is in front of my house waiting for me. I also ordered a Hemera 40mm fan to replace my blower fan to see if make any difference. If you are still interested in Tusk I found the tubes at Ace hardware : [www.acehardware.com]

Be sure to change your nozzle diameter to 0.4

In the Print Settings Tab in Advanced section, change all the Extrusion widths to 0.45

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This is what I have in my End G-code :
M104 S0 ;turn off extruder
M140 S0 ;turn off bed
G0 X0 Y0 Z460 F1800 ;home axes-5mm
M106 S0 ;turn off cooling fan
Should I keep the M400 ; wait for buffer to empty
I changed all the Extrusions widths to 0.45

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/15/2020 01:06PM by alex773.

You could keep the M400, I don't think it will hurt anything.

Also If you haven't had any problems due to lack of lubrication, you may want to do some preventative maintenance.

I recently noticed a squeak whenever my effector would do a quick move. I disconnected one of the carriages from the bearing block on my linear rails and found that it doesn't move as smooth as it did before. When I first assembled this machine I knew people that had received rails from Robotdigg that cleaned and lubed them because there was some kind of oil on them. But mine appeared to be ok so I installed them. Now I'm thinking I'm going to have to take them off and clean and lube everything.

I also noticed the magballs on my effector and carriage adapters were getting this black powder and the chrome coating on the magballs themselves looks to be wearing away. I also notice that in the rod ends I can see that the magnet is being worn away. Looks like maybe the part of the rod end that contacts the ball is wearing away allowing the magnet to touch the ball and wearing that away. Again it looks like it's a lube issue. I thought because they were Delrin which is supposed to be self lubricating, that they didn't need any lubrication. Apparently Hayden Huntley where the rods and magballs come from advises a particular type of lube normally used for bicycle chains.

So, my plan of action is unfortunately to take the linear rails off, carefully take the bearing blocks off (being sure to keep track of which one goes to which rail), then soak them in simple green for a couple of days. I most likely will disassemble them when I put them in simple green. Afterwards I will wash off, possibly hit with alcohol, dry, and then reassemble and lube them with Super Lube 51004 Synthetic Oil with PTFE. I will hit the rails with acetone on a microfiber cloth.

For the magballs and rods, I have extra magballs so I'll replace them. I haven't decided if I want to replace the arms or if I will just clean the ones I have. But in either case I will lube them with the recommended lube. which is White Lightning Easy Lube.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 04/17/2020 08:57PM by blt3dp.

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Long time ago I did notice the same squeaky noise and when I checked the magballs I found the same black powder what you are talking about and just one of those magballs had the chrome coating wearing away. I went on Amazon and bought this [www.amazon.com] based on Hayden Huntley recommendation . I don't think is working for me. This stuff is like a Wax. After few hours I checked the magballs and the rod end that contacts the ball and I don't think it was any lubrication between them. I'm tired of fancy stuff and I'm planning to go with a different oiling solution. When I received the rails from Robotdigg one of them it was pretty bad. I did clean them up with lacquer thinner and I did apply the fancy bike wax. It was not what I was expecting. I cleaned the rails and apply the Advanced Full Synthetic 5w-30 oil but kept the White lighting for the magballs. What I'm planning to do now is to clean up the rails , rod ends and the magballs with Lacquer Thinner and use this [www.amazon.com] for lube. This Lucas Heavy duty oil stabilizer is like honey . I used it years ago in winter in Chicago for a project and it was amazing

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/20/2020 03:18PM by alex773.

Yeah, I probably wouldn’t do the waxey stuff on the linear rails because they’re recirculating balls and you don’t want to bind them up. I’ve read multiple recommendations to use an oil (not a grease). I see a lot of people having success with the ptfe infused synthetic oil. I’ll use that for the linear rails, but probably the waxey stuff for the rod ends.

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I start one print using PrusaSlicer but during the print the fan blower is stop working. I have to turn it on manual but in couple minutes is off again. I have the blower fan set up to 100% after 2 layers. Is this happened to you ? I sliced with S3d an print the model properly. I checked the plug and the wires and everything is ok

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 04/22/2020 09:22AM by alex773.

I uninstalled the Prusa Slicer and install it again and now the blower fan it is working good. I found on forums that is a bug in Prusa Slicer and they are going to fix it in the next update. I have to the end of my config.g : M207 command.

Last night I heard clicking noise from the printer and I checked from where is coming. The noise is coming from the idler pulley from the top tower. Do you think I have the belts to tigh or the bearings are going bad ?

Hrmm, if you’re setup the same way that dc42’s are setup, I see a lot of reasons why it might start to click. The reason I don’t have mine setup like that is because using a bolt through the bearings as well as the pulley itself was for a couple of reasons. First was that there’s too much clearance between to bolt and the bearing/pulley. When you tension the belt, it pulls the bolt against the pulley, leaving the space at the top. Even though it all appears to spin together, they don’t. The bolt seems to climb up the side of the bearing and then is pulled back down. I also noticed that since the bolt was actually hardened, that it was cutting into the bearing. Which would eventually be bad.

That’s why I went with mounted bearings that had set screws as well as proper hardened shafts.

I would say take apart one of your idlers and check the bearings.

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I will take it apart and check the bearing to see. Thank you

Do you think this could be because of the idler pulley ?
I'm talking about the lanes on the bottom of the model

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 04/27/2020 08:14PM by alex773.

I took apart one pulley and there is small play on the bearings for now. For sure it will not get better. What parts did you use and what is your set up for it ?

I wouldn't say the quality on the benchy is from the pulley, you might possibly see some layer misalignment from it but it looks more like it's pushing out too much plastic when it starts a line. I'd look at extrusion. I wonder if something's not quite concentric as far as the gears and hobb from the nimble. I dunno if I'd buy another extruder just yet, I wouldn't spend the money on it unless you were sure it was the issue. I'd want to say print out another extruder and test it out to see if that takes care of the issue.

For my idlers, they're different because my frame is made of the cast tooling plate top and bottom with extrusion as the towers. Here's what I have setup. It might be adaptable to the vertices you're using though.

https://cad.onshape.com/documents/d8159d954f29f3d2d5108580/w/dd526bbf922fdc24601cd97d/e/b41eadb3b3ce3cff4b49a8ed

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What did you mean by : I'd want to say print out another extruder and test it out to see if that takes care of the issue.What kind of extruder you are talking about ?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/29/2020 02:36PM by alex773.

I sliced this model with Prusa Slicer. Something is not right. The top surface is rough and full of dots/ blobs. Witch settings I have to change to get a better print ?

I meant print something like this to try and see if it changes/resolves the extrusion issue. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:18379

The top surface as well as those lines on sides that don't line up look like over extrusion to me. Maybe going through the e steps calibration here might help.

https://reprap.org/wiki/Triffid_Hunter%27s_Calibration_Guide

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I will try to print the extruder but I don't think the parts will be accurate enough. We will see. From where you got the shaft for your pulley, what bearings you use ? If is possible I will change my pulleys set up. Thank you

I was trying in this morning to print the model from the Triffid Hunter's Calibration Guide , just to see the difference before and after the e-step calibration but the bearings from one pulley stop working. Do you know if the hardware store has this kind of pulley. The printer is not working now.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/30/2020 11:47AM by alex773.

I haven't seen those kind of flanged bearings locally anywhere. I have some I could ship you though.

For my bearing setup I got the mounted bearings and the pulley from vxb.com
They're 1/4" parts because I could only find the shafts in 1/4"

They're not cheap, here are links.
https://www.vxb.com/1-4-inch-Flanged-Miniature-Mounted-MFL4-p/mfl4.htm

Here are the pulleys.
https://www.vxb.com/6-35mm-Bore-Alum-Timing-Pulley-2mm-Pitch-16-Teeth-p/6.35mm-16t-6mm-gt2-pulley.htm

The shafts I used are the 3" ones from here.
https://www.servocity.com/0-250-1-4-stainless-steel-d-shafting

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Do you have only the flanged bearings ? If you have the other parts from vxb.com and servocity, I need them too because I want to change my set up . Do you think the bearings from vxb.com they are fitting my corners ? If not what changes I have to do in order to use them ?Thank you. Please send them.

I only have the flanged bearings that will work with your Robotdigg vertices. I can send those

My setup is different so it would take a bit to get my idler setup to work. Let me see if I can come up with some printed parts that will fit over the Robotdigg vertices to use.

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Thank you so much. The set up what you have is much stronger than the Robotdigg. I will place the order today for the parts.

I'd hold off on buying parts, I just wanna make sure I'll be able to design the plastic parts that will work with them.

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Ok, I will. In the meantime I will do the e-steps calibration. Thank you. Send me the invoice to pay for them.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/30/2020 06:50PM by alex773.

I'll send you the bearings no charge, I don't have a need for them. PM me the address again.

I've gotten the plastic parts design designed if you were going to go the direction similar to my idlers.

You'll need 3 of the mount-plate and 6 of the bearing-holder.
You'll also need 12 m3x10 socket head cap screws.
The bearing-holders is designed to be bolted to the mount plate.
The screws should slide easily through the mount-plate, but will require force threading into the bearing holders

Your belts are most likely going to need to be longer.

I hope the assembly is clear.

[cad.onshape.com]

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/01/2020 03:35PM by blt3dp.

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Thank you so much. I really appreciate your help. I will print the parts after I will receive the bearings from you. I will place the order today from the links you provide. Thank you