Re: Folger Prusa i3 Kit from ebay December 10, 2014 09:52PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 57 |
Re: Folger Prusa i3 Kit from ebay December 10, 2014 10:35PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 28 |
Re: Folger Prusa i3 Kit from ebay December 11, 2014 12:45AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 11 |
Re: Folger Prusa i3 Kit from ebay December 11, 2014 12:48AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 36 |
Re: Folger Prusa i3 Kit from ebay December 11, 2014 10:48AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 26 |
Quote
coldfront
I have finished drilling the new holes and assembling the new bed onto my prusa i3. A few things I noticed when attaching the bed was the clearance from the screws that are screwed into the beard holders and the frame. I had to cut down the screws for them to pass over the frame. As for drilling the new holes i took the old acrylic bed screwed it down to the aluminium bed and used a drill press it came out pretty nice everything fit well and was perfect. Leveling the bed is 100% better and really easy now. I also added cork board between the heat bed and the aluminium bed giving more insulation, and helping with heating up the bed really well. Heating the bed at 100c took only 12 mins total aside from around 25 mins before.
Pros:
Easy Manual Leveling
Not Acrylic
Better Stability
The (4) screws for leveling the bed have a lot more room and the nut doesn't fall off.
Cons:
The Pre-Drilled holes are not in the right place, I pretty much purchased this board feeling it would be an easy swap in and out.
There is a small gap overhang due to the bed being a little bigger than the Heat bed this has messed up the height of my Y-EndStop, I will need to print a lower endstop mount.
Aside from everything I had to do I like this bed better then the acrylic bed, here are some photos.
Re: Folger Prusa i3 Kit from ebay December 11, 2014 12:29PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 28 |
Quote
KeyserSoze3d
Quote
coldfront
I have finished drilling the new holes and assembling the new bed onto my prusa i3. A few things I noticed when attaching the bed was the clearance from the screws that are screwed into the beard holders and the frame. I had to cut down the screws for them to pass over the frame. As for drilling the new holes i took the old acrylic bed screwed it down to the aluminium bed and used a drill press it came out pretty nice everything fit well and was perfect. Leveling the bed is 100% better and really easy now. I also added cork board between the heat bed and the aluminium bed giving more insulation, and helping with heating up the bed really well. Heating the bed at 100c took only 12 mins total aside from around 25 mins before.
Pros:
Easy Manual Leveling
Not Acrylic
Better Stability
The (4) screws for leveling the bed have a lot more room and the nut doesn't fall off.
Cons:
The Pre-Drilled holes are not in the right place, I pretty much purchased this board feeling it would be an easy swap in and out.
There is a small gap overhang due to the bed being a little bigger than the Heat bed this has messed up the height of my Y-EndStop, I will need to print a lower endstop mount.
Aside from everything I had to do I like this bed better then the acrylic bed, here are some photos.
Thanks for the great review and great pictures. I'm a bit bummed that it was not a plug and play affair.
I did see this one on ebay. I wonder how well it lines up? Ebay Aluminum Bed
I think I may just bite the bullet and get a full aluminum frame kit, using just the bed until my frame cracks. From what I hear its not if an acrylic frame will crack, but when.
Re: Folger Prusa i3 Kit from ebay December 11, 2014 05:04PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 133 |
Re: Folger Prusa i3 Kit from ebay December 11, 2014 05:16PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 110 |
Quote
rich1812
Hi, I almost finish building Folger i3, I have a few questions.
1.) When setting the home position, I am not sure how far the extruder should be from the heated bed, should it be 1mm or more?
2.) During testing, on all X, Y and Z, when they touch the endstops, they all bounce back for about 2-3mm then they will return to where they are suppose to stop, then they stop. Is this normal?
Thanks
Re: Folger Prusa i3 Kit from ebay December 11, 2014 09:59PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 18 |
Re: Folger Prusa i3 Kit from ebay December 11, 2014 10:39PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 57 |
Re: Folger Prusa i3 Kit from ebay December 11, 2014 11:50PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 133 |
Re: Folger Prusa i3 Kit from ebay December 11, 2014 11:54PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 28 |
Quote
rich1812
Hi, I have some more questions.
1.) When I have the heated bed on and the temperature on, I leave it for about 10 minutes or so, than it would shut itself off, I can no longer move the axes. Is this some kind of over heat protection? If so, how am I suppose to print an object as printing an object likely take longer then 10 minutes. Is there something in the framework setting I need to change? I has the Marlin framework.
2.) The heated bed that comes with theFolger kit, It only heats the lower part of the bed, the upper part remains cold. is there something wrong with it?
3.) When I need to order more filament, is 3mm the right size for the Folger extruder?
Thanks again.
Re: Folger Prusa i3 Kit from ebay December 11, 2014 11:56PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 28 |
Re: Folger Prusa i3 Kit from ebay December 12, 2014 12:03AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 133 |
Re: Folger Prusa i3 Kit from ebay December 12, 2014 12:08AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 45 |
Quote
mikez104
My aluminum bed came today. Might get a chance to install this weekend but not sure. I have way too much to do. Here are a few pictures. I bought it Tuesday and it came today so shipping was very fast. It is 3mm thick and weighs 312 grams. The holes all seem to line up except the two in the middle are shifted slightly but that don't matter. I want to get some cork or something to put between it and the heatbed like coldfront did.
Re: Folger Prusa i3 Kit from ebay December 12, 2014 12:15AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 28 |
Quote
rich1812
Hi coldfront, thanks for such a uick reply.
I have the hot bed on 12V, should I use 24V?
Prior to buying the kit, I bought a 1.75mm filament, but it seems the diameter is too big for the Folger extruder, when I got the kit, it came with a roll of filament that 's much thiner, about 3mm. I am abit confused, the 1.75mm does mean the diameter, is that correct? When I look on eBay, some sellers have both numbers listed such as 3D Printer Filament 1kg/2.2lb 1.75mm 3mm ABS / PLA MakerBot RepRap, why is that?
Thanks again
Re: Folger Prusa i3 Kit from ebay December 12, 2014 12:22AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 28 |
Quote
mikez104
My aluminum bed came today. Might get a chance to install this weekend but not sure. I have way too much to do. Here are a few pictures. I bought it Tuesday and it came today so shipping was very fast. It is 3mm thick and weighs 312 grams. The holes all seem to line up except the two in the middle are shifted slightly but that don't matter. I want to get some cork or something to put between it and the heatbed like coldfront did.
Re: Folger Prusa i3 Kit from ebay December 12, 2014 12:22AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 45 |
Quote
mikez104
I want to get some cork or something to put between it and the heatbed like coldfront did.
Re: Folger Prusa i3 Kit from ebay December 12, 2014 02:50AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 26 |
Quote
coldfront
Also for the heatbed did you place the GND wire over both - 1,2 pads and + on pad 1?
Re: Folger Prusa i3 Kit from ebay December 12, 2014 08:26AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 133 |
Re: Folger Prusa i3 Kit from ebay December 12, 2014 09:38AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 57 |
Quote
Easy
Quote
mikez104
My aluminum bed came today. Might get a chance to install this weekend but not sure. I have way too much to do. Here are a few pictures. I bought it Tuesday and it came today so shipping was very fast. It is 3mm thick and weighs 312 grams. The holes all seem to line up except the two in the middle are shifted slightly but that don't matter. I want to get some cork or something to put between it and the heatbed like coldfront did.
Are the original plastic bearing holders supposed to be attached to the aluminum plate, or are the bearings supposed to be tie-wrapped into the slots in the plate?
Re: Folger Prusa i3 Kit from ebay December 12, 2014 09:49AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 1,011 |
IMHO it's better to zip-tied them directly on the plate. The machining is more precise than the printed parts, and you will get few extra millimeters gained for your printing area.Quote
Easy
Are the original plastic bearing holders supposed to be attached to the aluminum plate, or are the bearings supposed to be tie-wrapped into the slots in the plate?
Re: Folger Prusa i3 Kit from ebay December 12, 2014 02:13PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 28 |
Quote
rich1812
Hi coldfront, thanks for your reply. You were right, I did wire the hot bed wrong, after re-wired now it works fine.
as for the filament, this is the one I bought on eBay, 2meters PTFE Teflon Tube For 1.75mm Filament for 3D Printer RepRap Rostock. It says 1.75mm but it's way to big.(too big.jpg)
I bought the printer from the same seller, this is the one came with the printer(perfect.jpg.) which fits perfectly and it measures 3mm Shouldn't 1.75mm smaller then 3mm? why is it thicker?
And to confuse me further, this seller has the headline of "3D Printer Filament 1kg/2.2lb 1.75mm 3mm ABS / PLA MakerBot RepRap", so which is it? 1.75 or 3??:
Very confused!
Re: Folger Prusa i3 Kit from ebay December 12, 2014 04:48PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 133 |
Re: Folger Prusa i3 Kit from ebay December 12, 2014 04:54PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 133 |
Re: Folger Prusa i3 Kit from ebay December 12, 2014 05:08PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 18 |
Re: Folger Prusa i3 Kit from ebay December 12, 2014 05:30PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 133 |
Re: Folger Prusa i3 Kit from ebay December 12, 2014 06:37PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 28 |
Quote
rich1812
Ahhh, more question! When I connected Macpronterface to the printer, it comes online just fine, when I set the extruder to 180 degrees, it's fine as well. However once I set the bed to 60 degrees, within 1-2 seconds, RAMPS makes a click sound then shuts off. I checked all my wirings, I didn't see anything wrong. In the Marlin_v1 configure.h I see these lines of code for temp protection
// When temperature exceeds max temp, your heater will be switched off.
// This feature exists to protect your hotend from overheating accidentally, but *NOT* from thermistor short/failure!
// You should use MINTEMP for thermistor short/failure protection.
#define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 275
#define HEATER_1_MAXTEMP 275
#define HEATER_2_MAXTEMP 275
#define BED_MAXTEMP 150
Do they look fine or do they need some tweak?
Re: Folger Prusa i3 Kit from ebay December 12, 2014 06:54PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 28 |
Quote
BayAreaRepRap
Anyone use any LM8uu linear bearing alternatives? The ones included lose balls like crazy and are the crunchiest bearings I've ever seen. I'm thinking of getting some 8mm bronze bushings.
Re: Folger Prusa i3 Kit from ebay December 12, 2014 07:19PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 36 |
Quote
coldfront
Hmm clicking sound I don't know anything about clicking, is it more of a clicking or is it a beeping sound??
but it seems that 1-2 seconds after starting the heat it happens right? i mean it can't even get to 60c that fast, must be another problem.
my settings for the HEATER_0 are as follows.
// When temperature exceeds max temp, your heater will be switched off.
// This feature exists to protect your hotend from overheating accidentally, but *NOT* from thermistor short/failure!
// You should use MINTEMP for thermistor short/failure protection.
#define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 270
#define HEATER_1_MAXTEMP 245
#define HEATER_2_MAXTEMP 245
#define BED_MAXTEMP 120
EDITED: Also this only happens when you heat up your bed right?? not your extruder? Example.. if you turn on your extruder and leave it for a few mins no beeping or anything correct? but if you just enable your heatbed then you get this *clicking* sound, right? sounds like a bad connection somewhere check you wires.
Quote
rich1812
Ahhh, more question! When I connected Macpronterface to the printer, it comes online just fine, when I set the extruder to 180 degrees, it's fine as well. However once I set the bed to 60 degrees, within 1-2 seconds, RAMPS makes a click sound then shuts off. I checked all my wirings, I didn't see anything wrong. In the Marlin_v1 configure.h I see these lines of code for temp protection
// When temperature exceeds max temp, your heater will be switched off.
// This feature exists to protect your hotend from overheating accidentally, but *NOT* from thermistor short/failure!
// You should use MINTEMP for thermistor short/failure protection.
#define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 275
#define HEATER_1_MAXTEMP 275
#define HEATER_2_MAXTEMP 275
#define BED_MAXTEMP 150
Do they look fine or do they need some tweak?