Are there any designs that use a chain and chain sprocket to move the y axis table?by Pawl - General
I think I fixed it. I'm going to use this on my new build and see if it fixes the problem: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:20241by Pawl - General Mendel Topics
Here's a picture of how it lines up with the x-carriage. The wall that the bolt sits against on the x-idler could move toward the rod ~7mm before the belt would be on top of the x-carriage's bolt hole. However, the motor can only move away from the rods ~4mm before the same thing happens (that's how much spacing you need with your washers - 4mm, 8 m3 washers, or 5 m4 washers). If we're goingby Pawl - General Mendel Topics
I think the X Motor End needs to be modified to allow the pulley to be more in line with the idler's 608 bearing. Even if the pulley was backwards and flush against the motor, only 3mm of belt would be able to fit on the 608 bearing. Here's a picture of what I'm talking about: Here's my temporary fix (I added some washers between the motor and x end):by Pawl - General Mendel Topics
brnrd Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I placed the nuts so that they > were flush with the ends everywhere to give me the > maximum sized frame. I'm a bit confused, so there are 2 washers and 2 nuts between your z-motor mounts and frame vertexes? I'm more interested in the length required when using 2 washers and 1 nut, so we don't have to depreciate oldby Pawl - General Mendel Topics
According to Gary Hodson's sketchup model of the old prusa, it looks like <401 mm x-rods should work if there is a washer + nut + washer between the z motor mounts and the frame vertexes. Also, the inside of your frame vertexes (with feet) would need to be 234mm apart. I think I'm figuring something incorrectly though, because 405mm looked much too long for my Prusa... So I just ended up doingby Pawl - General Mendel Topics
$33 shipping to texasby Pawl - For Sale
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16990 Well.. the designs are finally out, any thoughts on how to improve the parts? Some minor things, I've noticed just printing the first few parts: The Y-Bar clamps have room for a nut trap, why not? Belt clamps don't really clamp, the belt might come loose? Belt clamp STL will benefit from being rotated 90 degrees to reduce jerk.by Pawl - General
Will I notice a difference if I use grade 2 fasteners rather than grade 5 fasteners? A store in the US called Tractor Supply is selling grade 2 nuts/washers for $2 a pound (which is about 100 nuts/washers), and it seems like a good deal.by Pawl - General
brnrd Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I asked prusajr at IRC today and he said 405 mm > for the x axis smooth rods works. I just tried 405mm and it's still quite a bit too long. I'm thinking something around 385mm should work.by Pawl - General Mendel Topics
I'm in the same boat as you. It doesn't seem to need any other changes than increasing heated bed and extruder temperatures. I'm experiencing better bridging and less ooze with ABS.by Pawl - General
Maybe it's a firmware issue? Are you using the sprinter firmware?: https://github.com/kliment/Sprinterby Pawl - RAMPS Electronics
When printing with PLA, I find having a fan helps with bridging. However, having it on at the beginning of the print can prevent the plastic from sticking to the build surface. Is there a way to *automatically* turn on the fan after the first few layers? Or maybe a better solution?by Pawl - Skeinforge
@CassArt the current "official-ish" firmware https://github.com/kliment/Sprinterby Pawl - General
I'm with Andrew Diehl I can speak for other hot end assemblies, but I don't see PLA printed parts being a problem with the Makergear Hot End Pack. Their GrooveMount keeps the hot parts a good distance away from the x-carriage and wades extruder body. However, it's important to make sure your motors are not getting hot. You will need to tune the current flow accordingly before they warp adjacenby Pawl - General
Activating the "cool" feature in SFACT and pointing a fan at the print when it's printing the actual gear part helped me with this problem.by Pawl - General
Just printed two sets of parts with clear PLA and put them on Ebay. The parts are drilled and ready for use. http://www.ebay.com/itm/150695294370 *Updated listing 11/9/2011*by Pawl - Plastic RepRap Parts for Sale