Are any of the 3d printers, or kits compliant with the FCC? Quote Section 302(b) of the Communications Act (47 USC ยง 302a(b)) provides that: No person shall manufacture, import, sell, offer for sale, or ship device or home electronic equipment and systems, or use devices, which fail to comply with regulations promulgated pursuant to this section. From Sparkfun Quote Even devices which do noby pfinucan - General
Only trying to move the printer away from my computer. It is basically the same reason you would want a networked paper printer. In an office or computer lab you may want to have multible computers with access to the printer. But that would be another step beyond what I am trying to do, because you would need to handle the traffic somehow. With an arduino that might start to be a challenge.by pfinucan - General
So it turned out that a quick change on the marlin firmware side was the easy part. I have been playing with printcore.py. I think that is the heart of Printrun / Pronterface. The idea is that you can point pronterface at a ip and port number of the wifi module to print. And the user experience of pronterface will be the same. In the printcore class "printer" is the serial connection. I thiby pfinucan - General
So I just forked the Marlin Fireware and someone has already added serial port switching. The copy I had on my computer was a little old and didn't have it. This is great because that means no software changes are needed to the most recent Marlin Firmware to use a WiFi module.by pfinucan - General
Okay I have the printer executing GCODES sent over telnet to the WiFi module. I am still updating the Marlin firmware to make the UART selectable, so you can switch between the WiFi and the USB cable on the fly. Right now I just updated the registers in the Serial file to point to UART2. Easy peasy. FORCE_INLINE void write(uint8_t c) { while (!((UCSR2A) & (1 << UDRE2))by pfinucan - General
I have used the RN modules in other hobby projects, and I needed to add #include SoftwareSerial.h (for a arduino UNO, I guess I don't need that here). The mega has 4 UARTS, all but one, UART2 (pin 16 and 17) are used for other things. So I can connect to the ramps pins aux 17 and 18. Ramps AUX 17 = Mega 17 (RX2), and Ramps AUX 18 = Mega 16 (TX2). So that part is pretty easy. I also need a logby pfinucan - General
I posted here to see if anyone has already updated Marlin to interact with the roving networks modules. I find that almost any 3D printer project I start, someone has already done almost the same thing. So I was just checking. I basically want a networked printer. And I already like marlin and ramps14. I think that RN module is a reasonable and cheap way to network a printer, but obviouslyby pfinucan - General
I hadn't looked into that smoothy board (~$120). It looks promoising. And I agree that faster is the way to go. It looks more geared to CNC than 3D printing. One problem for me is the firmware is writen in C++. I think one thing that helps reprap (specifically Marlin) is that the arduino has a large active following. So if you are not a professional programer, it isn't that hard to find alby pfinucan - General
Ya, that looks interesting. And with the Rasp Pi low cost it might be worth it. (I have a rasp Pi sitting on my shelf) But it is a lot of added software / hardware complication, if you just want to remove the usb cable. I havn't seen a Rasp Pi printer shield (for stepper drivers etc). But I think the Rasp Pi might be a great way forward with the Reprap project. It has so much power, easy toby pfinucan - General
So I am currently editing Marlin to make a simple wifi serial connection to a computer so I don't have to use a usb cable. I am using this cheap ($35) wifi module from sparkfun. I guess you could use it to download the gcode to a SD cards too, but I need to get it working first. It occurred to me that I couldn't be the first person to do this. Anyone know if someone has posted this already?by pfinucan - General
I built a couple of oversized mendels (12" x 12" x 10"). I used McMaster-Carr drill rods (8mm). After about 4 months of heavy printing I found that I wore groves in the rods. I just twisted the the grooves away from the ball bearings and continued. Drill rods (as least from McMaster-Carr) only have a surface hardness of about B80-100, about half the hardness of a true hardened linear shaft (~Cby pfinucan - General
Hey, Anyone know where to get eggbot firm ware for the arduino uno that works? I have the mechanical stuff all working but can't get a firmware to compile in the arduino software. I can't get this software to work. I tried the arduino 1.0, 1.01, and 0023. I chased down a couple of obvious errors, but I can't get it to work.by pfinucan - General
I spend some time on Mouser.com too. Molex has a SPOX connector that is 5.08mm but it is 7amps. Does anyone know what the family of connections are on the ATX power supply? What I found looking around real quick is that ATX pitch is 4.2mm. So I guess they can't be used with the current ramps1.4. Is there a reason for 0.2" spacing on the power input?by pfinucan - RAMPS Electronics
I am looking to replace the screw termials on my ramp 1.4. I havn't put it together yet. I would like to have a male connector soldered to the PCB board, and then the female side on the wire I would like it to be crimpable not soldered or terminal. Both for the supply voltage and the power to the heaters / fans from the mosfats. I would just use Molex KK connection, but the spacing isn't righby pfinucan - RAMPS Electronics
I get the "retract_length" error on everything I have tried. This is my first time using slicer, so maybe I am missing something. But it just doesn't work for me. I have tried different values for the retraction, but it doesn't seem to have an effect. Anyone have and then solve this issue?by pfinucan - General
I have the same setup as you (but I made the frame etc). I found that the default pinout in Marlin are incorrect for ramps1.4. I had to switch some of the endstops around, and the extruder / bed / fan outputs are wrong too. I used a volt meter to figure out which one controled which output. And I use the serial port monitor in the arduino software and gcode M119 to figure out which endstops gby pfinucan - General
For the ramps, what I did was buy just the PCB board with the SMT components on it. It was only $28 http://ultimachine.com/ramps Then I soldered the headers on myself. The components that are not surface mounted are cheap ($10 - $20 at the most) All you need are a couple of mosfet, fuses, and diodes. It took maybe an hour to solder together. If you can soilder and are ordering stuff from mby pfinucan - General
I have this extruder. I got it to go with my repstrap. I was totally new to 3d printing, and I spent months getting it to work right. By now I have extruded about 10 lbs of filament (since october). The thing to remember is that it is a MK8 or MK7 clone. So when tuning it it is much better to look at the problems people are posting over at makerbot google groups and than here, where most pby pfinucan - General
I have a different extruder than you (MK8 clone) so this may not be any help. I have had a lot of jamming issues. One issue that took me a while to figure out was that I was over extruding just a little bit. That cause high back presure to cause plastic to build up in the nozzle and fail the print. Most often after a 100% fill layer. This would happen a lot on the first couple of layers toby pfinucan - General
use McMaster-Carr.com for the smooth rods, search for Drill Rods. 3' of 8mm = $5.59 (shipping is not shown but for me it was like $10) use Ultimachine for the bearings (http://ultimachine.com/content/linear-bearing-lm8uu) $1.75 each $15 stepper motors can be found at qu-bd.com I suggest getting the threaded rods at home depot or local where-ever (5/16" may work depending on what you printed)by pfinucan - General
You may be printing at too low a temperature, or too high a feedrate. The hotend may not be melting the plastic fast enough, causing it to stop and stalling out the motor. You are print PLA, at what temperature / feedrate / layer height? Is it always jamed or does it work for a little while then jam?by pfinucan - General
You may still have a loose wire. Tap the hot end, thermistor, and wires, see if you can get any temperature movement.by pfinucan - General
Hi, A little background first: I have been fighting a MK7 clone extruder (QU-BD). Everytime I think I have it dialed in, it will start jamming again. I am printing with PLA (white from UM). I print a couple of parts that work great then the extruder will start jamming peridically. The last couple of times I took the extruder apart I found plastic in the stainless steel tube that connects theby pfinucan - General
You might want to tighten your belts. I had a similar problem that I solved by tightening my belts. Watch the belts when it prints, on my I could see them bounce up and down a lot when the nozzle changed directions. Not sure if you are having the same problem.by pfinucan - General
Make sure the z-rods are not slipping compared to the stepper motor. I had that problem on one side only so it was obvious after a little while, because the whole x axis carriage started to tip. But if both are slipping, then you might not notice. I am using plastic tube as my z axis couples, so I added zip ties and oiled the threaded rod.by pfinucan - General
I would suggest checking the g-code you are running, to make sure the slicer is doing what you expect.by pfinucan - General
I have seen a similar issue when my extruder is starting to jam. Too little plastic can cause the print to "cheat" around the corners, making the perimeter shrink. Not sure this is your problem because it looks so regular. You might want to up you flow rate 10% just as a test. Are you having jamming issues too?by pfinucan - General
This was taken about 2 minutes before she stood up on the part of the box top that was overhanging the table and flipped off the table. The box top was a good idea up until then because it kept her from sleeping on my keyboard. You can see the ramps 1.4 by her head.by pfinucan - General
I am printing with a qu-bd single extruder on this x-carrage: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:12481 It works okay, but not great. It is a little difficult to work on, and the clearance between the extruder hotend and the carriage is very close. I broke the leads off of my heat element while taking it apart, totally my fault. You have to mount the hotend just right for it to fit. I was pby pfinucan - General
What I did was open the arduino serial monitor and start sending it GCODE by hand and watching the responses. I started with the end stops. I looked up the code for the current possible of the end stops. I pressed them down one at a time and sent the Gcode and checked to see if they worked.by pfinucan - General