I'm far from an expert but I just see many issues getting in the way. Uneven heating/cooling, Pouring not creating enough pressure (without a vacuum to fill out your mold) etc. Don't let my fairly uninformed skepticism stop you from experimenting!by McSquid - General
I replace my nozzles whenever I suspect they have a problem since they are cheap. It looks like whoever designed your hotend used a nozzle designed for 3mm filament and used PTFE to convert to 1.75mm. try replacing it with another 3mm filament nozzle before you try to drill your own. The real looming problem here is that PTFE liner. PTFE breaks down eventually under high heat and really should noby McSquid - General
Ive seen people use a normal Extruder/nozzle to fill a mold with PLA. Basicly they make their mold with a hole that fits the nozzle, another hole for air, and they just secure or hold the mold to the nozzle and extrude until full. I don't see why you couldn't rig something up that heats and uses pellets. Though the microwave idea seems unrealistic.by McSquid - General
Hi all. I am trying to prepare this file to be printed: It is too large for my print bed, so I am cutting it into 4 pieces. Normally I would use netfabb to cut it and call it a day, however, this part will need to hold up 2-4 lbs of weight and be swung around / bumped / handled roughly without falling apart. For this reason I want to add interlocking tabs / a puzzle cut to the part for added stby McSquid - General
Your problem is heat. It is not that your hotend is too hot for your filament, its that the part is not able to cool since you are putting so much hot plastic down in such a short time. Try a test print with a fan blowing on our part and see if it improves, print 2 at once for a "thermal distraction", or slow your print speed to give the part time to cool off before the next layer goes downby McSquid - General
So I figured out how to apply the modifiers and join the various parts in blender, then used the 3d print toolbox to remove non manifolds. This, plus netfabb cloud were enough to remove the error that was making things choke. Took a few hours of messing with things to get to this point but it looks good now. Now I just need to find a program to add a few mechanical edits to this organic part aby McSquid - General
Hi All, A kind designer on thingiverse modeled a cosplay weapon for me and I am trying to take what he gave me and prepare it to be printed. He gave me a blender file, that I was then able to export STLs from after messing with it for a while. I then brought them into netfabb to scale, since no matter what I do in blender I cant seem to get scaling to stick. Once my files are scaled and error feby McSquid - General
SUCCESS! My solutions archived below in 1 post to help others with future troubleshooting -------------------- Using a combination of the above advice from these great reprappers I now have the Z probe respecting the Z offset value. Here is what I ended up doing: I left define min_software_endstops on but changed the way I compensated (realizing my previous method was stupid. changes below) I cby McSquid - Reprappers
Hmmmm This may be a good catch. I home Z up and to max and until I got the probe I used software min endstops, I kept this enabled in hopes that if for some reason a print or movement was triggered without M29 or if the probe failed that the software endstop would stop a major crash. My max is set to 3mm more than its actual height in order to allow movement lower than the bed. and the bed is onby McSquid - Reprappers
Thanks so much for the location in the LCD menu. In there I can verify that my Z offset is set. However, when I try to change it It won't go below 0.5. I had recently been trying to make .3 work and now I know why I couldn't get it closer. When I set it with M851 it echoed that the min was -5 and the max was 15, This may have actually said or meant -.5 which is why going lower wasn't working. I'by McSquid - Reprappers
You were correct in that the eeprom was not enabled. I have now enabled it. However the z offset is still not present on m501 and setting it with M851 then m500 still does not seem to do anything. if you store a value with m500 will it survive a power cycle? or does that need to be put in gcode after m29 like o lampe said? My LCD says my firmware is 1.0.0 which Is a bit dated I think. Upon lookinby McSquid - Reprappers
OK, It is likely that my EEPROM is not enabled as I have never used it for anything before. I had been making all these offset changes in firmware and uploading it each time. I had not even heard of M851 before in all my searches about this topic. Ill enable the EEPROM and try this after work today. Forgive the newbish question, but where in marlin can I find the version number?by McSquid - Reprappers
Hi all, I have recently setup my Z probe and got G29 working correctly, It compensates for an unlevel bed (I can see Z changing) however, I cannot seem to get the Z probe offset set correctly. I measured the offset to .5mm by placing the nozzle on the bed and going up in .1mm increments until my sensor turned off, I then set: #define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -.5 This had my printer priby McSquid - Reprappers
Unfortunately, The one I have has only 2 solder pads. I have seen others that have the 24 volt extra pad but no such luck on this particular model. I'll post a picture soon, I'm going back to my old bed for the time being. Got some stuff that cant wait.by McSquid - Reprappers
Looks like the resistance is the problem. Using info I found here: Then here: It looks like my aluminum 1.5 ohm bed can only pull 8 amps for 96 watts. For comparison my .9 ohm bed could pull 13.333 amps for 160 watts. Which sounds correct to me since it blew the 12 amp fuse that I then replaced with a 15 amp. Looks like I'm gonna hit up the folgertech boys for another bed with lower resistanceby McSquid - Reprappers
Firstly, I am using the same themistor I was using before and have also checked the temperatures with a infared thermometer and temperatures are accurate (good thought though) I measured the resistance of the bed and got 1.5 ohms. In quickly measuring my old bed, which was able to hit 110c easily (though it is PCB not aluminum) I get .9 ohms. I havent been able to find good information on the rby McSquid - Reprappers
Yes the printer is enclosed. I build a dedicated cabinet to house both the printer and the filaments. This is my setup:by McSquid - Reprappers
Hey Everyone, I recently snagged a 200x300 aluminum heat bed from my friends up at folgertech in NH (You may know them from their I3 kit, I have been buying all my supplies in person from them for over a year now and they are great people) I am replacing a 200x300 pcb heat bed that I got from them a few months ago because I want to use an inductive sensor for auto bed leveling. To get the origby McSquid - Reprappers
Endstops give the computer that controls the printer a reference point to the real world. It tells the computer what physical position is software 0 so that it knows that position 30 is 30 units away from that reference point. End stops arent needed at all ends but at least one on each axis is needed.by McSquid - General
I didnt fix the ramps I retrurned it. if you have a shorted power pin dont bother trying to deal with it. its a defective board and no trace being cut will fix itby McSquid - Reprappers
QuoteNewPerfection Some discussion here: This is what I read. So basicly its a waiting game til marlin implements it? I'm not much of a programmer. @cozmicray My thermistor did not completly fail at once so much as change values as it burnt out. indicating a lower tempurature than was actually present for long enough to melt the hotend.by McSquid - General
So a little while ago I had my first huge printer failure. Low quality thermistor died and melted a hot end. After it happened I remember reading somewhere that it is possible to hook up 2 Thermistors to your hot end and if they dont agree (within 2-3 degrees of each other) the printer will shut down. For the life of me I cannot find where I read this now. I just replaced my hot end and wired upby McSquid - General
Finished building my first printer! Built an i3 with a MDF box frame. On to software!by McSquid - General
That was expertly put sir. I now cant wait to get my newly finished printer tuned and printing every little thing i could ever design.by McSquid - Reprappers
Problem is sorted out. It was a bad quality/defective board. solder blobs were under black plastic on the pins shorting them out. I got a replacement from the seller that is WAY higher quality. He said they switched suppliers on those boards and it shows. By the way if anyone lives in the US and needs an awesome supplier who will go above and beyond for you: Folger Tech (https://www.facebook.cby McSquid - Reprappers
Ok I did some further poking and i noticed I cannot turn the arduino on with a battery. then I smelled what I think is the 5v regulator (next to the barrel jack) and it does in fact smell dead. So I think I have found the source of the problem. Not sure what to blame in this situation but since the arduino still works on 5v I suppose ill count myself lucky. Does anyone have any idea why this woulby McSquid - Reprappers
So im In the middle of my first build - a Prusa i3 with Ramps 1.4, these drivers: , and a 750W Corsair PSU I just did a preflight test of the elctronics that ended in disaster. I uploaded this code: I attached 1 Stepper motor and driver to the slot normally used for a second extruder (cant think of a reason why that would be a problem) Attached 3 endstops Plugged in my PSU (tested unpluggedby McSquid - Reprappers
Having just started myself I opted for a Prusa i3. My parts cost came to $432 (just ordered last night). Some people reccomended the i2 due to better documentaion and apparently its easier to find kits. Id offer you my parts list but until I know its complete and has no problems im going to keep it to myself to avoid causing other people problemsby McSquid - Reprappers
I have a power supply already, However i DID forget those connectors. Thanks! Can I use standard 3 pin PC fan connectors? I see no difference other than thickness and I have a bunch laying around. Edit: Nevermind those don't seem like a good idea. 4 wires per motor and the endstop pins are too close together for those to be practical.by McSquid - Reprappers
I have a friend who Is printing me the plastic parts. Just want to make sure I didnt miss anything or get bad parts.by McSquid - Reprappers