Printer is Folger 2020. Printing ABS at 245C, bed at 100C, e3dv6. Please see attached pictures for two 50x50x2 calibration cuboid prints. Top has a rough surface and not sure why. First layer / bottom of the print looks perfect, spent some time dialing that in. Extrusion rate should be good also, spent some time dialing this in also following the reprap calibration guide. Also looked at thisby foul_owl - Printing
Having some major problems with Marlin firmware (bed leveling is causing the hotend to crash into the bed) so as a last resort I'm trying the latest firmware. Except...it doesn't build. I've tried arduino versions 1.8.5, 1.8.15, 2.0 beta. I've tried Marlin 2.0.9.1 (latest) and Marlin 2.0.9. Same error in all 6 permutations: "assignment of read-only variable 'MarlinUI::lcd_clicked'" Is anyoneby foul_owl - General
Anyone have any ideas on this?by foul_owl - General
Auto bed leveling is still failing for me, horribly. Marlin 1.1.x. The only thing I can think of: I have a Folger2020 and both the X and Y axes are inverted, ie: #define INVERT_X_DIR true #define INVERT_Y_DIR true #define INVERT_Z_DIR true Parts print out with the correct handedness. Looking at the front of the printer, (0,0) is the front left corner. My probe is both to the right and behindby foul_owl - General
I've been getting Folger 2020 kits and printing greg extruders so I can throw an e3d v6 on there. But recently it dawned on me that the greg extruder is obsolete. So assuming just a standard x carriage, ie: or close to it, what's the extruder that everyone is using now that can take a standard hot end, ie, j head or e3d v6? I'm assuming that everyone moved away from greg extruders due to thby foul_owl - General
So perhaps this is an issue with the G28 that I issue before the print. This deploys the probe, and I'm thinking perhaps the servo could be slightly off, leading to both the "too high" and "too low" issues occurring randomly. I'm guessing the important thing is to minimize the length of the arm, to avoid a multiplicative effect on any angular error. Right now, the arm I'm using is fairly long,by foul_owl - Printing
I think #define RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28 is the same as doing M420 S1.by foul_owl - Printing
I'm using Marlin, the version seems to be called "1.1.x". Leveling type is bilinear, 5x5 grid. Before every print, I do: G28 G29 M500 (to save the autoleveling data) M420 S1 (to enable using autoleveling)by foul_owl - Printing
I have never really been able to get my bed level in a satisfactory way. At some point, I started using autoleveling with a servo and mechanical switch. This has worked a lot better than trying to level by hand, but every 1 in 5 prints will still have an issue. The print head will either start too close or too far away from the bed. Either the print comes out perfectly, or it's a total failure oby foul_owl - Printing
I have been adjusting first layer height, z offset, and first layer extrusion width, but I just can't get a first layer that doesn't stick out on the sides. This is annoying when printing a very large number of small things that are supposed to easily fit together. I would strongly prefer to not have to fix each of potentially thousands of small pieces by hand with a razor blade. (especially conby foul_owl - Printing
Thank you so much for the help! Let me try these solutions! Also good to know the "elephant's foot" terminology!by foul_owl - Printing
I need to shrink just the first layer by 0.3%. My print is coming out perfectly except the first layer bulges out a tiny tiny bit due to it being the first layer and getting compressed slightly on the glass. I would prefer to not have to take a razor blade to all my prints to remove this excess, it is time consuming. I'm printing some things to fit together and this is an annoying issue. I'mby foul_owl - Printing
I looked here: But didn't see anything about this. Large features seem to have no issues, but small features get mangled. I'm using slic3r with default speed. For small perimeters that default is 15mm/sec. Should I try even lower speed there?by foul_owl - Printing
I used super glue to hold these nuts in place and so far so good. I also added space inside of the aluminum couplers between the motor shaft and the threaded rod. If this happens again I'm getting real lead screws. As an aside: The nut that holds the x idler pulley is a regular nut. I tried a nyloc, but nyloc nuts do not work with the nut trap...it just strips out the nut trap when tightening.by foul_owl - Printing
Gravity should be holding everything in place, but even so, one end rises up 10 mm above the other side. (x idler side) I think at least one of the issues was "hole for press fit nut was not tight enough"...which sadly is a very subjective thing. In my experience, anything press fit will fail and fail quickly. I'm trying super glue, but if I have to count on the strength of the glue for my priby foul_owl - Printing
I've been having an issue where suddenly the nut comes out of the x idler end. It almost seems like the entire system is "over constrained" from bolts holding the motors, and then tension gets relieved the only way it can, with the nut popping out. Originally the x axis was perfectly level with the bed and the frame, but then when the nut pops out the system "naturally" comes to rest with the lby foul_owl - Printing
I believe I have resolved the main issue here. Two things: 1. After flashing firmware that updates probe offsets, *always* run M502 to load these new settings from the firmware. I was trying to adjust these settings but getting no effect due to this issue. 2. My start up code is now: G28 G29 M420 S1 Which seems to activate the autoleveling correctly. There are still minor issues, but will addby foul_owl - Printing
Using a microswitch. I have set the X,Y, and Z offsets correctly. I did find this in the firmware: /** * Normally G28 leaves leveling disabled on completion. Enable * this option to have G28 restore the prior leveling state. */ //#define RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28 false So does "M420 S1;" "restore" this leveling state, or must I always do G29 if G28 is ever run?by foul_owl - Printing
Send: M48 X150 Y150 P20 Recv: Mean: -0.693944 Min: -0.696 Max: -0.692 Range: 0.003Recv: Standard Deviation: 0.000719 0.7 micron stdev seems pretty good to me...by foul_owl - Printing
9 probe points, and the bed is aluminum. There are no holes in the bed. Bed material shouldn't matter also, because I'm using autoleveling. I can level the bed by hand and get the prints perfect...until I either have to adjust something or enough time passes that the bed is no longer level. That's not the issue here. The whole *point* of autoleveling is to compensate for the bed not being levby foul_owl - Printing
The bane of my existence...trying to get the bed leveled. I'll spend hours trying to level the bed, only to have to replace something, requiring another leveling session. Or worse, one day randomly the leveling work I have done is suddenly undone. I finally added autoleveling to try and solve this once and for all, but even this does not work. I try heating the bed to temp, then: G28 X0 Y0 Gby foul_owl - Printing
Thank you! I'm really not a fan of the screw terminal connection...I would prefer to solder the heated bed wires into some sort of plug, then plug that into the board, if only that were possible. The wires are *slightly* warm to the touch when the bed is heating.by foul_owl - Printing
Sometimes my heated bed reaches full temp very quickly, within 10 minutes or so, but other times it can take an hour or so. This is on the same day, back to back tests. Room temp did not change between tests. What could cause this strange behavior? Brand new ramps 1.5 board.by foul_owl - Printing
I'm using brims, heated bed, etc, etc. But I am just wondering if I should try adjusting the hot end temp at all, as a parameter. My thought is: perhaps by extruding as cold as possible, there is less of a temperature difference, which would lead to less warping. My question here is *purely* about how hot end temp affects warping, if at all, just to understand that aspect.by foul_owl - Printing
Quotethe_digital_dentist What is a "full face mask" and how do you know it's doing anything? Is it a N95 respirator, properly fitted? Most (all?) of the amateur attempts to scrub 3D printer exhaust of fumes and particles are based on incomplete understanding of the problem, and almost none (none?) of them have any measurements to verify that their devices are doing what they hope they are doingby foul_owl - Safety & Best Practices
QuoteShank man I was using ABS exclusively for a couple of years as I've always preferred it to PLA. After long print sessions I would have slight headaches the following day. Printing in a small apartment without a good ventilation probably wasn't a good idea. It maybe unrelated. I use PETG for the most part now. Sorry to hear about the headaches. I print *only* in a sealed room now, and the rby foul_owl - Safety & Best Practices
Ok, this gave me a good laugh. Perhaps I'm overthinking it.by foul_owl - Safety & Best Practices
All I care about here is not getting cancer. I have had no acute effects, and any acute effects are so minor compared to something like cancer. Do we have any data on anything like that?by foul_owl - Safety & Best Practices
Printing ABS. I had my printers in a room with the window open and a fan going, but I could still smell fumes in my other room when it was printing. Most of the articles I have read just said "print with the window open and a fan and you'll be fine" but after three years of this I'm starting to wondering if I've poisoned myself. I have now moved to a new house and my printers are in a room thaby foul_owl - Safety & Best Practices