sounds like it can be a computer driver issue? Make sure you have usb driver first, and try connecting to a different usb connectionby XYZM - Prusa i3 and variants
Awesome, thanks for the reply. Yeah I am connected vis USB, opted out on the extras.by XYZM - Prusa i3 and variants
Out of the list provided on the wiki, what is a good one to use. I want to venture away from using repetier, which is endorsed by geeetech. Whats a good one to use with the GT2560 board. MatterControl Cura ReplicatorG RepSnapper RepRaptor RepRap Host Software send.py reprap-utils (not supported anymore) Pronterface RebRep Repetier-Host (closed source) X2sw Simplify3D (closed source) OctoPriby XYZM - Prusa i3 and variants
Woww I just solved my problem by updating the firmware found on the geeetech website. Yay now starts the fun.by XYZM - Prusa i3 and variants
Seems like I cannot make the gears turn on the extruder when It is connected to the extruder slot on the motherboard. When I switch it around with the x axis, I can control movement of the extruder motor by clicking home to x.. So its not the motor. I think it may be the software or the motherboard I have the GT2560 board with a single Mk8 extruder I have exchanged my DRV8825 driver with anotby XYZM - Prusa i3 and variants
@sarf2k4 The hot end is heated to 220 Celsius, but I am not testing with filament, just trying to watch the gear move. Ill try loosening the hobbed bolt, or at least what I think is the hobbed bolt.by XYZM - Prusa i3 and variants
This must be sort of normal maybe because I am controlling it through manual control. So I am limited by to short extrusions at a time.by XYZM - Prusa i3 and variants
I exchanged the stepper driver board and still get the same, this time the voltage is set to 1.67 and I can feel the extruder motor humming. When I look at the gears inside they do not move, or maybe barely..by XYZM - Prusa i3 and variants
SO The problem is not the extruder motor but maybe my DRV8825 stepper driver. I am set to 1/16th. Any Ideas?by XYZM - Prusa i3 and variants
That and maybe a box within a box.by XYZM - General
Whats the purpose of that, its a two I think. Just cleared out my nozzle, boy was the metal tool getting stuck in there, when I thought there was no more, boom as nice string poop came out.by XYZM - General
The solution was changing the mains to 110V...very simple fix I overlooked. One reason I ignored this was because the power supply had a sticker on the side that says "110-120 50Hz 200-240 60 Hz" I knew for sure the US is at 60Hz, so I left it the way it was on 220. Good thing the error wasn't the other way because it would haveby XYZM - Prusa i3 and variants
Yep that was the issue... Wow what a newbie mistake..and my dad is an electrician.... Cheersby XYZM - General
Thank you for the realization! Settings my Drv8825 to around .5 V each Ill see what happens.by XYZM - General
ahhh On the side of the power supply it says "110-120v 50 Hz" "220-240v 60Hz" I know we are on 60hz so I left it as it was.by XYZM - General
Oh yes I live in the US, I am set to 220Vby XYZM - General
I would have to check the mains. I assume I put the multimeter on ground and live, or should I test the end that goes to the board... There is a screw on my power suppl, near the connections.., any idea what this adjusts?by XYZM - General
Yeah, sorry If I could delete a thread I would. Figured it would be more relevant in the Prusa i3 section.by XYZM - Prusa i3 and variants
Vref is from the adjustment pot, and black on ground.. Motor current rating is 1.5A Model: 42SHD0217-24B Similar to this guy He supplied .8 V to the X and Y and 1.8 V to the Zby XYZM - General
Start here If anything doesn't make sense let me know.by XYZM - Prusa i3 and variants
Video so you can visually see what is going onby XYZM - Prusa i3 and variants
Video so you can visually seeby XYZM - General
Those printers resemble the Geeetech chinese printers. There is a lot about them in the Prusa i3 section --> Some may come fine, some may come with a messed up power supply(as in my case) Just do some research. I personally think a cheapo printer isnt bad for a beginner. Check out the Prusa i3 with aluminium case, they are stronger than the acrylic.by XYZM - General
What I mean is, while the heating element is on, when I put my multi meter on the two wires I get around 7 volts from the Heat bed, and 7 volts from the extruder. I don't think the wiring is messed up, but one of the clips that goes to the com on the PSU does not match the rest, so I had to crimp it to actually fit behind the screw. (Picture will follow if you want a visual). After adjusting tby XYZM - Prusa i3 and variants
I actually just made a tool from an old ipod opening tool, by using a grinder. Lesson learned hahaby XYZM - General
The Geeetech forums explain how to upload the firmware. But you shouldnt have to upload any firmware, they come pre uploadedby XYZM - Prusa i3 and variants
This is from the geeetech forums.. Might helpby XYZM - Prusa i3 and variants
I am using the GT2560, DRV8825 with an updated firmware for using 1 extruder (since the GT2560 was intended for 2, and I was having errors with the software looking for thermister 2 before hand) Geeetech is sending me a new power unit, but has anyone experienced this? They think that turning on the extruder and heatbed is depriving the motors of voltage, but it doesnt seem that way when I measby XYZM - Prusa i3 and variants
Who is a good provider of the smoothieboard?by XYZM - General
I have read about the smoothieboard, once I get more experience I will probably update. For now I can't get anything to print. Motors move fine through manual control. But when heating the extruder and heatbed they studddddder. Geeetech thinks its power unit, so they will send me one. Im trying to make them send me another board too hahaby XYZM - General