How high did you set the max pwm?by milkypostman - Reprappers
Don't worry about which the knob turns, what you should care about is that when you increase the number on the LCD that the x-axis moves right the y-axis moves towards you and the Z axis moves up. If this isn't the case just turn everything off and plug the cables into the board the other way. I know that not all of my wiring it's exactly the same for all the motors. I'm sure that not all of yoby milkypostman - General
Quoteappdev007 I have had experience with about 6 different brands of plastic now and they all seem to have different properties. Different melting temperatures and different viscosities at those temperatures. If you're judging the plastic by the standard temperatures that get quoted around here then ultimachine is the best stuff in my opinion; however, I have got off brands to print well but notby milkypostman - Reprappers
i actually thought it could be heat creep a while ago because I had a similar problem with the noise when using MG Chemicals filament. It wasn't so bad that it was skipping the gear though. So at that point I replaced my original J-head hotend with a E3D v6 because i liked how it had a dedicated cooling fan for the upper part of the hotend. i'll have to try burning some of it with a lighter to sby milkypostman - Reprappers
that's the weird thing, it sounds like 230 is the ABS temp and even then it's hard to get the filament out. i can't imagine what is really the problem with the filament. I don't think I remember it oozing at all that's the weird thing. but even at abs temps what could be the problem?by milkypostman - Reprappers
I am using a direct drive extruder (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:501755) and some no-name PLA filament I have seems to require a LOT of pressure to get pushed out of the extruder. when it's running I can hear it start to make a creaking noise (the noise you hear when you apply force to plastic). at first I couldn't figure out the noise but now I see that it's because the gear is pushing the pby milkypostman - Reprappers
do you mean the extruded aluminum? it should be fine to paint. although some of your t-slot nuts may be harder to get in.by milkypostman - General
is there a link to this design to print ourselves? I like the spacing on these. Have you tried with PLA?by milkypostman - Reprappers
So here's a trick I found out. The glue will come off easily in water. Yes I'm an idiot and didn't realize it was washable even after sitting for days! So just run the glass print under water Another thing I have started to do now: I bought some 1/8th inch aluminum plates and I just put those on top of the glass using the same clips. I did this because I will soon hookup auto leveling but alsoby milkypostman - Prusa i3 and variants
yeah that makes sense about the y frame itself not being twisted. yeah I can see now why the P3Steel would be quite nice though. I am very happy with the extruded aluminum of the wilson as well.by milkypostman - Prusa i3 and variants
Yeah, i saw this in another thread. but you said there you were running at 100mm/s? I normally run at .3 with 60mm/s and I'm really happy with my prints.by milkypostman - General
yeah, I can't picture how the hell this thing worksby milkypostman - General
I have found that the glue stick (fresh each print) on top of anything works well, but you actually want the first layer to be pretty close. i calibrate by sliding a piece of paper under the nozzle which i just heard from a friend. So i dunno. I did watch some calibration stuff too. anyways, my prints were nice out of the box too. My one suggestion, start printing a second copy of some of the lby milkypostman - General
i guess I mean that the bed needs to go in and out perpendicular to the Z frame. That is, the frame cannot be twisted relative to the z frame or a square will end up like a parallelogram. if you look at the prusa i3, it's two nuts tightened against each other that determines this and it seems like that would be a hard thing to square up.by milkypostman - Prusa i3 and variants
On the normal i3 and variants that use threaded rods for the Y axis frame, how hard is it to get things squared? I have a wilson variant and it's all determined by the cut of the aluminum extrusions and the mounting brackets which I can easily square off the extruded aluminum to make sure the Z frame is squared to the Y body. But I have always been curious how hard it is to square the threaded rby milkypostman - Prusa i3 and variants
I'd be curious to know what speed others print at. I run 60mm/s (20 on first layer) with pla and getting quite nice prints at .3 layer height. enough so that I haven't scaled down to .2 yet.by milkypostman - General
nice! so this is the stretch? you get an e3d lite6 or a jhead? it's big. at least, seeing that board and such. did he send it to you with computer PSU?by milkypostman - General
yes, from the specs, the inside should be 8mm, but the outer radius and the length are off. Outer radius is 15 (lmu) vs 16 (igus) and 24 (lmu) vs 25 (igus).by milkypostman - Reprappers
it's so easy to take this thing apart---i did it last night---so it may be worth just taking it apart and seeing what's going on.by milkypostman - Reprappers
I had the same problem. I dremeled them out a bit and it helped but it won't hurt anything. I actually ended up wrecking a ball bearing and it didn't hurt anything. It actually spins around the bolt and doesn't really engage the ball bearing anyways.by milkypostman - General
tempted to try these:by milkypostman - Reprappers
sigh, that's probably happening to me as well. i wonder if it would make sense to just open them up and remove the balls altogether. i am having a similar experience.by milkypostman - Reprappers
This topic probably belongs in the i3/variants forum. Is there a way to move it? anyways, I had the same feeling about the bearings and the grittiness. It doesn't get better but it actually doesn't matter once everything is together. the first things I'm doing is printing all the printed parts so I have duplicates The only big mistake I made was that I widened the x idler thinking that theby milkypostman - General
are you actually having issues with them? I have actually found that while the bearings are cheap and one of my z bearings actually lost a bunch of the actual bearing balls, they run fine. they are a bit noisy to me. I am wondering if I were to take them off, try to actually remove the balls, if they would run better. The only thing I am noticing is some ripples in the side, but I actually thinby milkypostman - Reprappers
oh, but to answer your question, misumi has those bearings but they get expensive when you're not buying the cheap ones.by milkypostman - Reprappers
I'd be interested to try something like orby milkypostman - Reprappers
dbrewski is there any chance you'd post the scad/cad files? Cause I would love to use this extruder but I would like to mount it to a rework x carriage instead of standard prusa x carriage.by milkypostman - Prusa i3 and variants
to me it looks like you don't have the extruder nozzle size set correctly or your steps/mm setting for the extruder is too low. as if it's not outputting enough plastic. cause it looks like separation between neighboring edges. you may want to look in cura for the "first layer width" or "first layer flow" and set it to 125% or something. That would help make sure that there is enough plastic dowby milkypostman - Prusa i3 and variants
dbrewski, am I wrong in thinking this uses the traditional prusa x-carriage or is this compatible with the rework? sorry I don't know anything about this kit.by milkypostman - Prusa i3 and variants