I've been using the Orion successfully for about five months. Earlier today it started behaving erratically, it would only trigger after it had pushed on the bed a couple of mm's. I tried adjusting the sensitivity, but eventually I got to a setting where it sometimes triggers without touching the bed and sometimes pushes the bed at least 2mm down on the springs. This tells me this is not a calibrby Akegata - General
So this was my bad. After digging through the source code to figure out what was wrong, I realized that I had copied the "X_HOMING_SENSITIVITY" settings from 1.1.9. These are renamed to X_STALL_SENSITIVITY. Maybe someone else will benefit from my mistake at least.by Akegata - Firmware - Marlin
Has this error been reintroduced in a later bugfix release? I downloaded 2.0 today and ported over my settings from 1.1.9. I'm getting this error even though I've set TMC2130 on both X_DRIVER_TYPE and Y_DRIVER_TYPE.by Akegata - Firmware - Marlin
I had this issue now almost a year later (for some reason this only happened for me when I added another extruder). This solution works perfectly! Also, to make the first step easier for new users, the setting is located in "Settings -> Serial Connection -> Behavior -> Error Handling -> What to do on firmware error".by Akegata - Firmware - Marlin
Now that I've properly installed and configured my orion on my HyperCube There is no turning back. All other automatic probing systems I've been using through the yeras are banned to an box of sort of fucntional but sort of poorly implemented solutions never to be used again. So the next steep is to have a orizon on my Cyclops+ machine, What is the current situation there, it there anything I canby Akegata - General
QuoteMoriquendi The replacement is in the post, hopefully it gets to you soon. Idris Just wanted to confirm that I received the replacement. The first one was indeed broken, the replacement works fine. After some tweaking and rebuilding of the printer the new sensor is in place. Running the first test print now, the first layer looks great. I really love this product, I've been waiting for a soby Akegata - General
Awesome, thank you! QuoteMoriquendi The replacement is in the post, hopefully it gets to you soon. Idrisby Akegata - General
QuoteMoriquendi If you turn the potentiometer does the red light go out when the blue light come on? Idris Which direction should I turn the potentiometer? I'm a bit hesitant to turn it too much. Edit: So I turned it counter clockwise until the blue LED was constantly on. The red LED is still on, and the sensor is still open when I run a M119. I turned it the clockwise to further than it was iby Akegata - General
I got my Orion the other day and while trying to set it up it stopped working all of a sudden. The red LED lights up as usual and when triggered the blue LED also lights up. However, Marlin never gets the info that Z min is triggered, it always stays open. I've tried reverting to the firmware I started with where it worked (although not all things worked, which is why I upgraded the firmware) butby Akegata - General
I've slowly iterrated away from the Sintron acrylic frame i3 I build with spares from my previous Makibox that I just ended up throwing away (if someone still needs som Makiboxspares I have a few around..). A big part of the mods I've added have been from the toolson i3 setup. The whole x axis mount (including end stop mount), the compact extruder mount, although I wil create my own now to give mby Akegata - Prusa i3 and variants
I just redid all my cabling with nice cable chains and encountered the same temperature error, plus maxtemp triggered. For reference for anyone else that might have this problem, I think the issue was that one (more or) of the rows of pins connecting the RAMPS to the Mega wasn't connected, probably because the black connector on the Mega was bent (I have a cheap chinese Mega, not sure if the offby Akegata - Prusa i3 and variants
I have RAMPS 1.4 with a Mega 2560, with thermistor readings acting extremely strange. The hot end reports temperatures in the range of 160-165 degrees, even when I don't have the RAMPS connected to the Mega. I've tried a bunch of different temp sensors in Marlin, they all seem to give the same readings except for the dummy sensor 998 that give a correct value of 25 (haven't tried 999). Could somby Akegata - Prusa i3 and variants
I recently finished building my Prusa i3 and am now trying to calibrate it. I'm having trouble getting sharp corners print nicely, especially on the first layer. It seems like too much plastic is extruded on. I've tried tweaking first layer height, extrusion width, extruder steps and pretty much anything else I can think of. What am I missing?by Akegata - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteAkegata I'm trying to set up bed leveling as per Thomas Sanladerers video (https://youtu.be/EcGFLwj0pnA), using a LJ12A3-4-Z/BY sensor. I've soldered the cables to the proper resistors, however, I can't get readings that make any sense from it. I get readings fluctuating between 6v and 11v no matter if the sensor is opened or closed. When I only connect power and ground without any resistorby Akegata - General Mendel Topics
I'm trying to set up bed leveling as per Thomas Sanladerers video (https://youtu.be/EcGFLwj0pnA), using a LJ12A3-4-Z/BY sensor. I've soldered the cables to the proper resistors, however, I can't get readings that make any sense from it. I get readings fluctuating between 6v and 11v no matter if the sensor is opened or closed. When I only connect power and ground without any resistors, I get 12v/by Akegata - General Mendel Topics
I'm building a Prusa i3 and have gotten mostly everything in place, except for the extruder. Trying to find information about what to use for this setup seems rather hard. What is the best way to go here, should I use a Greg's Wade extruder and modify it to fit the bowden coupling?by Akegata - General Mendel Topics
QuotetadawsonThe bed is likely running bang-bang control - IE on or off, and the extruder pidtemp, which uses pwm to control it's heater, and won't necessarily read 0 or 12, like the bed . . . Yeah, you're right. That makes sense. Now I get 0v on it consistently though (even when I've switched to using bang-bang on the hot end), so the board is definitely broken. But thanks for clearing up whyby Akegata - General
PID changes made no difference, neither did the new heater cartridge. After messing around a bit, I changed the firmware to 2 hot ends and plugged the hot end into the ports for the second hot end. Works fine, the hot end heats up without problems and keeps the temperature. I guess the RAMPS is defective.by Akegata - General
I will test those settings tomorrow. However, I'm starting to think the heater cartridge is broken, like Downunder35m suggests. When I have the heater plugged in and set the temperature to something higher than the hot end is right now, the power on the hot end connectors isn't 12v, it fluctuates between 0.5 and 3 or something like that. Plugging in the heated bed or nothing at all gives a steadyby Akegata - General
Not sure where to post this, so I went with general.. I have a newly build Prusa i3 with a RAMPS 1.4 and an E3Dv6 hot end that I'm having temperature issues with. When I set the temperature to a specific value, it always stops at ~10 degrees below what I set. It fluctuates quite a bit (maybe +-5 degrees) but never reaches the desired temperature. I figured this might be a PID tuning issue, so Iby Akegata - General