I'm currently working on a project which uses two extruders. One for making an impression in a powder and other one to dispose a liquid in to the impression made by the first extruder. I'm currently manually writing gcode for the purpose, and have some doubts about gcodes and setting up a second extruder. I've once configured a dual extruder system, but it uses old marlin and current one has a vby athul - Firmware - Marlin
Hi, I've made a paste extruder(plunger type), in which a plunger will push the syringe to extrude. Plunger movement is controlled by a stepper motor. In that arrangement, for g-code generation I've used inside dia of syringe as the filament diameter and inside dia of needle as nozzle diameter and to calculate extruder steps per mm, I"ve used the lead of threaded rod which controls the moveby athul - Paste Extrusion Working Group
QuoteFA-MAS Quotethe_digital_dentist What size nozzle are you using? 0.67 mm line width seems a little too wide for a 0.4 mm nozzle to me. I'm curious about this myself. I've used Slic3r for years with a .4 nozzle. I've never touched extrusion width and it's also .67 for me. It's automatically setting that on it's own so I figure there's some type of math involved based off of some assumptby athul - Printing
; generated by Slic3r 1.2.9 on 2016-09-25 at 23:59:00 ; external perimeters extrusion width = 0.40mm ; perimeters extrusion width = 0.67mm ; infill extrusion width = 0.67mm ; solid infill extrusion width = 0.67mm ; top infill extrusion width = 0.67mm ; support material extrusion width = 0.40mm Quotestephenrc Slic3r 1.29 over extrudes on gap filling. 1.30-dev has fixed that problem. Gap fillinby athul - Printing
Hi, Whenever I try to print models with only single line infill , infill is extruded more and causes nozzle to drag on previous layer. Not a problem on models with more than single line of infill , like a 20 mm cube, and I get good results with 100% infill(no over extrsuion). I have calibrated my extruder by printing a single layered cube(using spiral vase feature), I put 0.5mm iby athul - Printing
QuotePDBeal You can edit your Marlin Configuration_Adv.h file and increase your DEFAULT_STEPPER_DEACTIVE_TIME to something higher, or play around with some of the other options about not disabling the XYZ motors at all when idle. I'm assuming your setup takes too long to switch temperatures and Marlin is sending your steppers to sleep because of it. my DEFAULT_STEPPER_DEACTIVE_TIME is currentlyby athul - Printing
Hi, I've recently upgraded extruder in my printer to dual extruder and i'm printing my first test file now(3d model) . FW = marlin slcer = slic3r 1.2.9 host = Octoprint I noticed some shifting while printing. So I spent some time in front of the machine. I've enabled the ooze prevention in slic3r so that inactive extruder cools down to 5 degree. After each layer both extruders go outsidby athul - Printing
Hi, Second extruder in my prusa turns on automatically with out any command when power supply is turned on. I'm using printrboard Rev D with Dual extruder board and FW is marlin.. If no USB connection is established( USB is not connected to USB port ) and power supply is ON , second extruder turns on automatically and temperature increases without any limit. It already melted two ofby athul - Printing
I tightened the belt and increased current, but I don't think that's the issue Actually my nozzle was dragging the supprot when I was printing, So I thought may be I'm over extruding. I checked E_steps Tried to extrude 100mm but to my surprice it didn't I had to change my E_steps from 90.95 to 98.02 to give 100mm If 90.95 had dragging 98,02 definitely have more dragging, So what could beby athul - Printing
Hi, I was getting reasonably good quality prints from my 3d printer. Yesterday I printed a pretty large model with lots of support(0.2 mm layer cura slicer also tried slicer). It was a 25 hour print and at the middle of the print I noticed some layer misalignment or shifting(not sure which is). But I didn't tried to adjust anything since I didn't want to mess it up even more. But the finishby athul - Printing
HI, I'm using prusa i3 and recently upgraded to dual extruder (still making it work).I use slicer to generate gcodes and use Repetier as the host software. I was using 1st extruder(BLUE) for part and 2nd extruder(RED) for support printing. Yesterday I changed the extrduer settings in slicer so that 1st extruder will print supports and 2nd one will print the part. But after slicing , in the priby athul - Printing
Quotestephenrc Watch the extruder when this occurs. It could be the filament is slipping or not feeding off the spool, the stepper motor for the extruder is skipping steps or the stepper driver is overheating. Also, it could be the gear on the extruder stepper motor is slipping. Hey, thanks for the reply. I couldn't see any issues with stepper motor and it's not skipping steps also I when printiby athul - General
HI, I'm using Prusa i3 and my firmware is marlin with dual extruder enabled, nozzle J head 0.4mm, filament 1.75 mm PLA, slic3r and host octoprint. I was getting reasonable quality prints from machine, but for a few weeks I'm getting prints with bad surface finish. In some cases I get some layers with smooth surface(not very smooth) and some others with rough surface and this happens alterby athul - General
Quotefalwty99 You are on the right track, absolutely. Here is what I do. Remove the lens. Adjust to shortest length. Put a paper at then end of the now open tube. Pulse the laser. Then do the same with the head at its longest distance. When the laser dots are in the middle of the tube in both the upper and lower position - then its good. Put lens in, adjust focus and run the laser. The beam is pby athul - Laser Cutter Working Group
@falwty99 In the first picture laser falls at the centre of 3rd mirror and falls at the centre of lens too. In the second picture laser falls at the top of 3rd mirror, mirror is not adjusted and laser falls the corner of lens. in the 3rd picture fig1 ,laser falls the top of 3rd mirror and it's adjusted so that laser falls at the centre of lens when the adjustable head is at max length and inby athul - Laser Cutter Working Group
Quotefalwty99 If you have a head with adjustable length the beam should be in the centre of the lens at the shortest and the longest distance. That is what is important. Adjust the third mirror so this happens. My head is adjustable, and it's already at the maximum length so that it will few mm away from cutting material and I can't reduce the height since it'll affect focus (my bed is not adjusby athul - Laser Cutter Working Group
Hi, I've few doubts about about the mirror alignment and laser focusing. The reason why I'm asking this is that , the edges of my cut piece are not square. After searching through lots of forums I found that if laser do not hit the exact centre of the lens, result will be beveled cuts. Some posts says that beam should hit all the mirrors at the exact centre, and some other says It should be oby athul - Laser Cutter Working Group
I sliced a stl file using spiral vase mode and in generated g code I could find following things ; external perimeters extrusion width = 0.40mm ; perimeters extrusion width = 0.67mm ; infill extrusion width = 0.67mm ; solid infill extrusion width = 0.67mm ; top infill extrusion width = 0.67mm So which one should be the dimension of print output , 0.4 or 0.67 ??by athul - Printing
QuoteThe other way is to print a test object with each spool using the spiral vase function in slicer, and specify the wall thickness and use the nominal diameter when you slice. Measure the printed wall thickness and then set the flow control for target wall thickness/measured wall thickness. Mark that flow control number on the spool and use it each time you slice to print from that spool. I cby athul - Printing
MY drive gear diameter is 11.4 mm motor nema 14 200 micro steps micro stepping 16 and calculated e steps is 89.35 steps/mmby athul - Printing
Calibrating extruder?? are you asking about the extruder setps per mm ?by athul - Printing
hi, I want to know is there any way to adjust the distance between the support material from the object in the x and y direction in slic3r. Generared support is very close to the object that it's hard to remove(not in Z direction)by athul - Printing
I think for me in order to print with out thermocouple I need to put -42 or less in sllic3r but slic3r won't accept the value and I can't put 0 in sli3r since it needs thermocouple and hotend to bring temp from -42 to 0. So I think the only solution is to use a resistorby athul - General
QuoteThen you can set any temperature below min - for me "#define HEATER_0_MINTEMP 0" is enough, maybe you have to set it to "-50" or even below? In this case would the machine print if I put print temperature 0 degree Celsius in slic3r (or should I put -42)?by athul - General
If I disconnect the thermocouple Repetier Host shows the temperature as -42 degree Celsius . Since the extruder can't reach that temperature it won't print. And if I connect the thermocouple it'll show room temperature and print will only start If it reach the temperature mentioned in the slic3r(I can't use the exact room temperature in slic3r since it's not stable always)by athul - General
I'm using printr board and in my case i'm sure that extruder won't work if I left the thermocouple disconnected . I even changed #defime TEMP_SENSOR_0 0 but arduino showed error while compiling. If you give me your mail ID(PM) I can sent you the firmware i'm using(it's too large to attach here)by athul - General
@VDX I already set the minimum temperature to 0, but if I remove the thermocouple machine won't work(is that normal?) What i'm doing now is that keep the thermocouple attached with the hot end , and put the temperature it shows in the slic3r (it won't be same always) and I don't want this way. I'll try shorting with a resistor(wil it show constant temperature all the time?)by athul - General
Hi, I'm building a paste extruder and it's almost finished.But the problem is that I had to keep the thermistor connected with the hot end since machine does't work with out a thermocouple connected with it and with out it reaching the temperature that I put in the slic3r. Since it is a paste extruder I don't want a temperature sensor, so is there any way to work it with out a thermocouple coby athul - General