QuoteMutley3D Quotesxt173 Thanks. I'll try a new Arduino. I don't have any on hand so I'll see if Radio Shack has any or it'll be a week or so. What is your location? If uk maybe i can help speed you up with a donor borrow?? Duh just realised "Radio Shack" nvm. Thanks though. I'm in New York City area and thanks to Amazon I'll have it in a day.by sxt173 - General
Thanks. I'll try a new Arduino. I don't have any on hand so I'll see if Radio Shack has any or it'll be a week or so.by sxt173 - General
Yup. I tried reflashing and no go. Is there an easy way to just check to see if the Arduino is still fully functional so that I can at least rule that out?by sxt173 - General
I have an odd problem, couldn't find a similar issue on the forums. I've recently set up my MendelMax (RAMPS 1.4) to work with a OctoPrint on a Raspberry Pi. It was working fine for a few weeks and long story short something happened and the printer got stuck for 5-6 hours at 50C bed temp with the hot end touching it and 183C on the hotend. And all the stepper motors were extremely hot, probabby sxt173 - General
I mostly resolved my issue: I think the main culprit was that the "feed hole" in the extruder body was for 3mm vs. a 1.75mm hot end. It seems that as the tip was heating up and transferring some heat up the filament, it basically used the path of least resistance and started buckling right under the hobbled bolt before it got into the extruder feed hole. In some cases, it just buckled a bitby sxt173 - Reprappers
I'll definitely try that after I swicth my nozzle back to 3mm tonight. Do you by any chance have pics of the magnet/washer setup? hexitex Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > add a steel clamp (like on those soldering > mates) around the barrel with a small magnet so > you can keep adding washersby sxt173 - Reprappers
Thanks, I will try that. I think I have one idea on what it may be, my extruder body is printed for 3mm filament and I was trying to push 1.75mm (the tip was 1.75mm, so maybe the filament was bending right before it got to the PTFE "cold" area.by sxt173 - Reprappers
A note on the Cubify printer, just do a search on the forums about Botmill and their customer service. Cubify is basically the "shiny & presentable" front end of Botmill, both of which are 3D Systems companies. I feel their Cubify printer is taking advantage of people who don't know any better, it's just a printer for which they are making you subscribe to a website to download designs (guby sxt173 - General
I ordered a single PTFE extruder part and a 1.75mm tip from them in July-August 2011, I received the order 5 1/2 half months later!!! That was after tens of emails and when they finally shipped the parts, they forgot one of the items. They are absolutely horrible to deal with and lack the most basic customer service. For 5 months, every time I emailed them or left voice mails, Gil would send aby sxt173 - General
I'll try adjusting the tension up, but when I test it manually, I've tried pressing in the hinge holding the wheel as much as possible. All it does is strip the filament. I will try moving the heatIng block back a bit to see if it does anything.by sxt173 - Reprappers
The nozzle size is 0.4mm. I can't even get it to extrude when I slowly turn the gear by hand. When I let the stepper motor do it, its the same. The filament stops moving and the gear starts stripping the filament.by sxt173 - Reprappers
I need help... I am on my 3rd hot end design and whatever I do, I cannot get it to work. I will get just a bit of oozing from the tip, but it always ends up jamming. I have tried 3 different designs on the Wade's Accessible Geared Extruder. The main extruder is made of Alumide to stop warping to the tip support. I added a fan to the hot end base with no avail. I am printing with 1.75mm PLA aby sxt173 - Reprappers
I pm'd you. edit: actually, you are probably talking about importing into NZ.. I'm in the US now. Sorry.by sxt173 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Nice design! I like how you used nuts as a heating block. So, I assume you keep a fan on the stainless steel tube to keep the heat at the tip?by sxt173 - General Mendel Topics
@ dean448 Do you have a picture of your "frame that houses a pair of ceramic resistors". Curious to see what that looks like. Project for tonight, I will be cutting away the PTFE sleeve to expose the stainless steel tube and figuring out how to wire up a fan. I'm using Techzone's Gen3 electronics, so I guess I have to do a bit of research on whether I can just wire it into the board as is soby sxt173 - General Mendel Topics
Yes, it's stainless steel. I just never thought the filament would expand so much to cause it to get stuck. Does it make sense that I can reverse the extruder and get it out easily though if that is the cause? I'm thinking that if that is the issue, I will need to cut most of the PTFE sleeve away, add more heatsinks + a fan. What do you guys use to stick the heatsinks to your tubing (pic 13)?by sxt173 - General Mendel Topics
Hey guys, I need help/advice. I recently rebuilt my whole extruder and am having problems with the hot end, hope someone can shed wisdom. I decided to go for a 0.4mm Makerbot tip, steel tube and PTFE liner mounted on Greg's Hinged Accessible Extruder. When I start feeding my PLA in at 200-210 degrees, it starts extruding just a bit, but then the PLA stops advancing and the hobbled bolt startsby sxt173 - General Mendel Topics
I'll try the fan to cool down the stainless steel tube. to give you guys an idea of my setup, I've taken a bunch of pictures. Looking at it, it might be a cooling issue: pic1 pic2 pic3 pic4 pic5 pic6 pic7 pic8 pic9 pic10 pic11 pic12 pic13by sxt173 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
@RepRot, Do you have pictures of how you have yours set up? I have 'Greg's Hinged Accessible Extruder' Thingiverse with a hot-end kit from Makerbot, mainly because they plate their hot end with Teflon. My setup is: - Greg's Hinged Accessible Extruder - PTFE rod with hole cut in for stainless steel makerbot tube and sized to fit into extruder base - Stainless steel tube with PTFE sleeve (for 3mmby sxt173 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
I had this issue too and in my case it was because I got lazy / thought I could avoid flattening the stepper motor shaft. After fixing this and really tightening on the gears, I haven't had an issue.by sxt173 - General Mendel Topics
@kdrummer My problem turned out to be wiring of the opto-endstops and one opto-endstop not being plugged in. This caused the firmware to allow + movements, but because there was no endstop, it would not let me do any movements towards home (-). I solved the issue by simply flipping my endstop plugs until it worked.by sxt173 - General
Simpler to build yes, but somehow I feel it is harder to run. Having followed his blog for a while, he was having a lot of issues at the beginning trying to get large objects to stick to his build platform. That was something he seems to have solved though, so who knows..by sxt173 - General
brnrd Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > SF already has an option to do round-robin > sequence within a part but not when using multiply > to print multiple parts. What option is that?by sxt173 - Skeinforge
I just came across this commercial/office 3D printer. They say it prints with two materials simultaneously and it can mix materials to do a range of textures and properties in between. They also mention it prints at 16-micron / layer resolution. What kind of technology is this using? From the video minute marker 2:20 and on, it looks like it may be depositing a liquid resin and curing it withby sxt173 - General
ahmetcemturan Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I think this is what you are looking for: > > opic.php?f=37&t=256 Thanks Ahmet, exactly what I was looking for. Btw, çok saol. Burda başka bir Türk gördüğüme sevindim. (that was a bit of foreign speak...)by sxt173 - Skeinforge
I've searched and searched and can't seem to locate the step by step I had seen somewhere on here on how to measure, calculate and input the E_steps_per_mm. I remember something about marking the plastic 110mm up, but that's about it. Could someone point me in the correct direction?by sxt173 - Skeinforge
@germanicus Are you sure about that? I think that if you feed g-code from SF into Repsnapper, repsnapper does not add add'tl settings. It just reads and executes the gcode that was loaded.by sxt173 - Skeinforge
I printed out a test 40mm cube (I didn't let it finish all the way) and noticed that some of the layers had tiny gaps, some had major separation. Also, I selected a 3 layer shell which looks fine, but the outside layer in same cases seems to not have bonded to the 2 inner shell layers. Which SF settings should I be playing with to fix a) the separation of layers, b) the shell layers not bondingby sxt173 - Skeinforge
Thanks. That was itby sxt173 - Skeinforge
j_andberg Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > > One nice thing about the separate controller is > that it is independent of the rest of the machine. > I turn it on 10 minutes before printing, and leave > it on until the last print is almost done... > Better for skeinforge output and host software, I > think. > > john That's one thing I rby sxt173 - Reprappers