I mentioned this in another thread, but should probably mention it here as well. I was able to raise my Z Home a bit more and still get prints to stick. This has pretty much solved the issue of having too much material on the first layer... subsequent layers do not have interference from the previous...by TheCase - Skeinforge
It is calibrated accurately. I bumped up the Filament Diameter a bit and it is extruding less material. I was also able to raise the Z home a bit as well - between those two issues, I'm now able to lay an initial layer that doesn't bulge up and get in the way of the second. Now I'm just trying to get the W/T ratios dialed in... it really is down to the fact I have to use a microscope to tell tby TheCase - General
I've had much better results with both bolts now. I've gotta learn to stop trying to cut corners, at least with the reprap stuffby TheCase - General
Good point. Back to the drawing board and calibration cubes!by TheCase - Skeinforge
I've got the Z home set to as high as I can have it and still get the initial layer to stick... But, on the first three full layers that get laid down, there's enough upward overflow from the previous layer to interfere with the print head as is moves to start the next layer. I don't really want to mess with the flow parameter, as I like the results on the other layers - and they don't appear tby TheCase - Skeinforge
yup - that was the trick. Thanks again.by TheCase - General
Ah, ok, that is probably the answer I was looking for. Thanks for the tip! I was adding shells - thinking that would give a thicker tooth... I'll post back with results.by TheCase - General
I'm having an issue where there is a decent gap between the perimeter and the infill in the teeth of printed gears. I recall seeing someone's blog where they went into great detail about this very issue and how they fixed it... all my googling can't seem to find it again. Is someone familiar with that page, or at least the topic?by TheCase - General
brnrd Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Very clean! But mounting the electronics on top of > the Mendel like that gets in the way of the > filament feed to the extruder. Yeah - I didn't put much forethought into that part... it was no issue at all with 1.75mm filament. Looked like it might start to be a problem with 3mm, but turns out it isn't. The extruby TheCase - Look what I made!
Ugh - the dreaded loose filament tanglebeast! Seems like a good solution though. I should have gone that way instead of spending about four hours working out the near-knots in a loosened roll of 1.75 PLA! Had that stuff strung out 200 feet down my hall...by TheCase - General
Yeah, ok, I probably need a stronger spring. Here's what I was thinking could be the causes (why do I always think after posting?) 1) temperature too low: extra work for extruder to push filament. 2) spooled filament is dragging/catching and/or tough to pull 3) idler is too tight 4) idler is too loose I was going on the assumption (based on Greg's pictures of his) that one bolt was good enoughby TheCase - General
Just when I thought I could start a non-stop printing process, I've noticed that I need to go into the extruder (Wade's accessable, thankfully) after every couple hours of printing and use a dental pick to get bits of PLA out of the teeth of my hobbed bolt. Otherwise the extrusions are less than ideal. Is this a common issue? I doubt it, but I'm stumped as to how I might prevent it...by TheCase - General
Yeah - that was one hell of a thread hijack.by TheCase - Look what I made!
Betty is giving birth! The replication has begun: offspring parts Who needs parts?by TheCase - Idaho RUG
ok, so I managed to get rid of the problem - started over with a fresh config. Wish I could say what fixed it, but I'm not sure. Oh well - my prints are finally looking great and the Prusa has started making "children"!by TheCase - General
Still waiting for the eHux. Hopefully the kit will be shipping to me next week. ... in other news... lined up the configs on the prusa and am working on my first replication set!by TheCase - General
Finally printed up the LM8UU X carriage - replaced the 5/16" X rods with the 8mm and went for it. I'm still doing my best to ignore that it snags like hell, and also the fact that two little balls popped out of one of the bearings... (good thing I ordered 12 bearings and I only really need 11). Initial prints are my best ever! All perimeter walls on the X axis are damn near perfect. The steby TheCase - General Mendel Topics
BoriSpider Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Case, how many Yodsta's have you printed yet? Heh. Absolutely zero. Still working on getting my configs straight. This pic of my office certainly could be used for a SW-based hidden object puzzle.by TheCase - General
Haven't really moved mine out to the garage yet...by TheCase - General
Not sure what might have happened, never had this problem before. I simply changed from 1.75mm to 3mm filament and copied over the orignal profile and simply changed the dimension values accordingly. NOW, whenever I print a part that has any sort of angle in it, the initial layers get laid down at maybe 5% (or maybe less) of my total feed rate (I was printing at 60mm/s). If I print stuff thaby TheCase - General
Finally giving the 8mm rod a try. nophead, I think "very rough" is an understatement! I don't think they will ever run smooth. At least not to the point where they will move freely under their own weight. I was already getting some backlash with the bearings with the 5/16" rod - the Y-axis was just a bit sticky and you could tell it would jerk from a dead stop on small distances. This feby TheCase - General Mendel Topics
Andy, excellent news! BTW, I'd still like to get you the ABS Wade's set that I mentioned I'm not using. I should be able to print you some X/Y/Z gears as well - but they'd most likely be PLA in the short term. If you could point me to the source STL or SCAD files for the gears, I'll try to get to them this week. Also, forgot to ask, but have either of you tried Kapton instead of blue maskinby TheCase - Idaho RUG
Um. Its inline with the post. If you can't see it: http://i1213.photobucket.com/albums/cc467/akula169/DSC_4115.jpgby TheCase - Look what I made!
It's been about a month in the works, between calibration, printing, upgrading, etc... so when I nuked the atmega644p attempting to test a kill button on the sanguinololu, I took the time to clean her up and make her purdy while I wait for the replacement to arrive. I call her Betty. Still many improvements to be made. Linear bearings on the X and Z axis are next, once I can start printing agaby TheCase - Look what I made!
You might be right. I'm not sure if its because they are poorly made bearings (China), but they certainly don't seem to travel as smoothly as I would have thought. Perhaps they are just packed with thick grease that needs to be worked out or something... I just happen to already have some 8mm smooth rod on the way... we'll see how they perform on that...by TheCase - General Mendel Topics
For sure... you'd figure it could just upload the pre-generated G-Code as a file (as it has already been saved to your hard disk anyhow). Maybe a possibility for a future printrun improvement - looks like the SD printing thing is still in its infancy...by TheCase - Sanguino(lolu)
Yes - that topic is where I started on figuring out the pinouts. Thanks for posting that information, extremely helpful! I tried a different variant of pronterface - and the "SD Print" function worked. So, it was a software problem after all.by TheCase - Sanguino(lolu)
Layer Thickness is in the Carve section of skeinforge.by TheCase - General
I'm pretty new to this, but isn't your Z travel defined by your layer thickness setting?by TheCase - General