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General discussions. For specific printers / electronics / fabrication methods / softwares, please see other sections.
Re: how to fix intermittent extrusion - layering problem - 11 years ago
It was given to me by a friend. I plan to replace it with a Hobbed bolt of my own shortly. Waiting for the weekend to get more timeby peddiparth - General
Re: 3D Printer, which one is the best? - 11 years ago
Beware - If you plan to build your own hot-end, it will take a while (month or two) before you master it and get good results. Mechanical assembly is just the first step. This is very easy if you have all materials. This step is extensively documented (with youtube videos). Electrical assembly is Step 2 requires an equally long tutorial that does not exist. You might have to address wiring layoby peddiparth - General
Re: how to fix intermittent extrusion - layering problem - 11 years ago
The issue turns out to be related to Hobbed Bolt. Some of the grooves (metal sticking out of the hobbed bolt) were smaller compared to the others causing slipping of filament. This explains why the problem repeats regularly. The easiest way to determine this problem is to look at the extruded filament (image attached). Some of the grooves in the filament are lighter than the rest. The groove couby peddiparth - General
Re: how to fix intermittent extrusion - layering problem - 11 years ago
Thanks jamesdanielv and polygonhell for the following hints. 1. PLA jamming or skipping at the Hobbed bolt due to diameter inconsistency: I purchased the PLA from onlinefilament.com for $38. I always keep it in ziplock bag (with desiccant) and cut portions of it for printing. I clean the hobbed bolt of plastic for every new load. The bolts on Greggs extruder are turned tight, so I suspect no skiby peddiparth - General
Re: how to fix intermittent extrusion - layering problem - 11 years ago
All speed settings = 30 mm/sec Travel speed = 100 mm/sec Additional config from Marlin #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {73.6894, 73.6894, 2275, 760*1.1}//{78.7402,78.7402,200*8/3,760*1.1} // default steps per unit for ultimaker #define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {500, 500, 4, 45} // (mm/sec) #define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {500,500,500,9000} // X, Y, Z, E maximum starby peddiparth - General
how to fix intermittent extrusion - layering problem - 11 years ago
I am printing with PLA at 190C with first layer at 200C. (Marlin firmware, Repetier Host). I noticed that my self made nozzle/hot-end extrudes plastic normally, but then it slows down extrusion of filament fairly regularly during printing - causing layering effect on the print. In the image of the print attached, the right side infill of the print is missing one layer, but the left side infill iby peddiparth - General
Re: Adding fan to RAMPS 1.4 and Marlin - 11 years ago
Got myself an inexpensive pair of tiny (20mm) fans from CompUSA for $7. With 2 wires, no doubts this time Thanks for your very helpful responses.by peddiparth - General
Re: TangiBot the unapologetic Makerbot Replicator clone - 11 years ago
Can we officially call it Makerbot "Clone Wars" ?by peddiparth - General
Re: Adding fan to RAMPS 1.4 and Marlin - 11 years ago
I checked D9 and it had 12V to ground. I connected the 12v & ground to D9 connectors. The fan now works ok. Does the option for FAST PWM really work in Marlin? I noticed that my hot-end fan does not run under 70% power in the PWM.by peddiparth - General
Re: Adding fan to RAMPS 1.4 and Marlin - 11 years ago
Thanks johnoly99 for the hint. I was going about it the wrong way. I was thinking in the direction of connecting the 12v directly from PC power supply, and finding a 5v PWM connection for controlling the fan.by peddiparth - General
Re: Adding fan to RAMPS 1.4 and Marlin - 11 years ago
I will be happy with instructions to get a generic 2 wire fan to work with Ramps 1.4 (h/w connections) and Sprinter (or Marlin if possible). I do not see Fan connections in RAMPS 1.4 wiki page.by peddiparth - General
Adding fan to RAMPS 1.4 and Marlin - 11 years ago
I have a CPU Fan with 3 wires - 12v, ground, 5v (signal ?) to blow on the hot-end. I am currently running it directly using PC power supply using just 12v and ground wires with a manual switch. How can I hook this up to RAMPS 1.4 and control it with Marlin firmware?by peddiparth - General
Re: New - Makerbot Replicator 2 - 11 years ago
I still do not get it. How is it able to print on glass? Are they suggesting any coatings? OR are they pre-coating the glass with something? If yes, what coating can it be?by peddiparth - General
Re: The death of Thingiverse? - 11 years ago
What if Thingiverse itself is used just for the social aspect, and only torrent files are posted there instead of actual STL files? This would be a temporary measure till an alternate site comes up to take its place. ---------------------------------------- Buback Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Kt Wrote: > --------------------------------------------------by peddiparth - General
Re: intermittent extrusion by hotend - 11 years ago
The issue is caused by the viscosity of melted PLA sticking to the 2" long brass that I was using for the nozzle. I cut it down to 1" and it works like magic. One other design change I made is to use a stainless steel coupler between PTFE and brass. I also added high temperature PTFE tape on the brass threads to avoid leaks in the coupler.by peddiparth - General
Re: Prusa i2 BOM
- 11 years ago
I suspect that the intension of the BOM having 50 instead of 30 M3x20 bolts is that a box of 50 will cost you a lot less than getting 30 individual bolts. It is always good to have more than necessary bolts/screws/nuts/washers etc than having to drive back to get more.by peddiparth - General
Re: trouble with self centering hole using drill press - 12 years ago
Using a 1x4 wood block for brass nozzle and 2x4" wood block for 1/2" PTFE gave me the most centered holes I have produced so far. The new procedure I listed in my previous post is a success!by peddiparth - General
trouble with self centering hole using drill press - 12 years ago
I am unable to produce a good self centered hole using a drill press with the metal or ptfe material in the drill press and 3mm dia drill bit held in hand with pliers. It is always off-center at the tail end. I have had this happen to every PTFE and nozzle I tried with this method. I am trying this new technique to make sure the entry hole is parallel to the length of the cylindrical material.by peddiparth - General
Re: Aggravating (Serial?) Issue - 12 years ago
If you just caught the skip, just pause the print, and home on both X and Y axis, and continue printing. It will continue printing from at the correct location.by peddiparth - General
Re: intermittent extrusion by hotend - 12 years ago
I am guessing that this intermittent extrusion issue is related to a blockage in the brass nozzle that stops pla from melting & pressure build-up for continuous extrusion, or the presence of a melt zone (solidified?) between brass and PTFE. I will be testing these two conflicting theories shortly by opening up the hotend.by peddiparth - General
Re: intermittent extrusion by hotend - 12 years ago
The hot end is holding the temperature steady at the set temperature with only 1C variation. I have to figure out a way to measure the nozzle temperature. (probably with a thermocouple)? I also noticed that I can not retract the whole filament out. This indicates there is a melt zone between brass and PTFE.by peddiparth - General
intermittent extrusion by hotend - 12 years ago
My latest iteration of a hotend with heated block has a problem of intermittent extrusion (PLA) at any temperature (185 to 200C). I badly need some hints on how to resolve the issue. I noticed that it extrudes excellently for some time, then stops extruding, then starts up after some more time, and so on. The end result is no prints. Here are some additional details on how I built my hotend. I dby peddiparth - General
Re: Prusa i3 Where Are You? - 12 years ago
I did not know the scad files were released for Prusa i3by peddiparth - General
Re: Confused About PLA on Glass - 12 years ago
Just tried printing on a rectangular section of a Walmart plastic bag (LDPE) stretched out on a glass plate (room temp). I taped its ends on the reverse side of glass with painters tape. The LDEP sheet was destroyed during printing. I put a layer of blue painters tape under the LDPE sheet just in case. I have not leveled my print bed yet, but it seems to print without any issues. I have to try eby peddiparth - General
Re: Will the 3d printer ever be a household product? - 12 years ago
The simplest way to answer this question is to answer the following question. "What is the one household item you absolutely need that is cheaper/healthier/easier to print on a 3D printer rather than buying it wholesale?"by peddiparth - General
Re: Will the 3d printer ever be a household product? - 12 years ago
There is no need for a 3D printer in households at this point of time when designing and printing custom plastic parts is a larger overhead compared to a quick drive to Walmart or Target (or ordering online) to get the required part. Fume exhaust is another big concern. I see the future of custom 3D printing as a small business industry at best.by peddiparth - General
Re: ABS VS PLA -- what is worst, more toxic, for our health? - 12 years ago
I live in the coastal area, so printing PLA in garage in high humidity is out of the question. I am currently printing in an AC room. I just cut filament to the size I need, and store the rest in a ziplock bag. Once I am done printing, I just open my windows for ventilating the fumes. Say what you want about zero carbon footprint of PLA, it still has the capacity to produce dangerous chemicalby peddiparth - General
Re: Hotend theory - 12 years ago
Switched to Marlin firmware. Printing at 190C (+-3C) is no longer a problemby peddiparth - General
Re: Hotend theory - 12 years ago
Cameron, please share your PID settings of Sprinter so that I can fix my settings.by peddiparth - General