I guessing that you print PLA? It sounds like the filament jams in the hotend. I had the same issue when I tried printing PLA, I could extrude all day long, both fast and slow, but asa I started printing, things jammed up in the hotend. Depending on which hotend you have, it should be possible to fix by cooling the feed tube of the hotend with a fan.by Ralf - Printing
It's a question of finding the right slicing parameters, or choosing another slicer. I downloaded thing 97377, and could quite easily replicate the issue, finally after playing around for quite some time i got it to slice nicely with these parameters: ; layer_height = 0.3 ; perimeters = 2 ; top_solid_layers = 3 ; bottom_solid_layers = 3 ; fill_density = 0.6 ; perimeter_speed = 60 ; infill_speedby Ralf - Reprappers
Ok.. I stand corrected.. But in the old days, of CRT screens the "2S" rule almost always applied..by Ralf - General
Steps/volume.. To convert to volumetric extrusion, you set a fixed diameter in your slicer, eqial to a area of 1 mm2, and divide your steps/mm with the area of the filament you are using, for 3mm filament it is ~7. This way your steps/mm effectively turns into steps/mm3. You will also need to multiply max feedrate and retraction with filament area. You will still need to tune e-steps, but youby Ralf - General
Is there a reason to why almost no one (so it seems), is using volumetric extrusion, instead of the classic way of having both e-steps and filament diameter. I followed Triffid Hunters exellent guide long ago, and I can't imagine to ever turn away from volumetric extrusion. Of course you can make perfectly fine prints regardless of which method you are using, but the thing that you only have onby Ralf - General
One possibility is to attach the picture to your post, select Preview, and then copy the link location for your attachment, and use it in your post, I don't know if this is the recomended way to do it, but it overcomes the need for external references from the forum, and in theory it should work as long as the forum is up and running.by Ralf - Reprappers
Just for info.. most of the times if a transistor har imprinted Dxxx, Axxx or Kxxx, the part number should just be prefixed with 2S, so in your case it would be 2SD13009K. There is probably some more letters that has escaped my memory..by Ralf - General
Try to lower the bed temperature after the first layer, I had the same issue, and it was fixed by setting bed tempereture to 95 degrees for all but the first layer, which I kept at 110 degrees.by Ralf - Printing
Tour temperature isn't necessarily off, it also depends on the heat propagation in the hotend, and the length of the melt zone, when you can pull out the flament. As Scheck wrote, the best way to be sure thar the temperature is ok, is to stick a thermocouple down the hotend. It sounds like the filament gets stuck in the tube, I had the exact same issues when I switched from ABS to PLA, the firstby Ralf - Reprappers
This is how the filament should look like, if you succeed..by Ralf - Reprappers
When you try to unclog the nozzle by pulling out the filament, you should be able to see an imprint of the inside of the nozzle in the filament, if you dont, you probably still have some plastic left in the hotend. When I want to clean out the hotend, I turn it on at 100 degrees, and when temperature reaches ~60 degrees, I start pulling the filament, and somewhere between 70-90 degrees it breaksby Ralf - Reprappers
I got my PLA and have made some preliminary tests. The parts is printed with 0.25mm layers, and 0.7mm perimeter width, and 2 perimeters. The cross section where the part is supposed to break is 10x10mm square. The control print was printed in ABS at 240 degrees: 45, 56.4, 59.5, 60.3 PLA at 205 degrees: 53.3, 54.9, 55.8, 68.3 PLA at 210 degrees 54.9, 57.1, 60.5, 61.1 So PLA layer bonding seemby Ralf - General
So I finally got some PLA to test with, and it ended up in pure fail.. It simply doesn't work reliably without cooling of the stainless tube, for a start it all looked ok, but when things heated up, the hotend started jamming. When not printing, I could extrude all day long both very slow and very fast, but as soon as I started printing it jammed. So for PLA I have added a heatsink starting 5mmby Ralf - Plastic Extruder Working Group
There was a bug in Slic3r 0.9.9 causing it to be wery generous with extra parameters, it's fixed in the latest version. But the perimeters alone shouldn't be causing warped prints. Your perimeter width should always be wider than your nozzle size, if set lower you will be stretching the filament, which contributes to warping. It sounds like you are printing ABS, the way I fixed my gears was hotby Ralf - Printing
That would be my best guess. One way to be sure would be to disconnect the hotend alltogether, and substitute the thermistor with a resistor, with a value between 220 - 1000 ohm, this is roughly equal to what the EPOCS 100K NTC outputs between 170-250 degrees. But that requires that you have a spare resistor laying around. This should give a stable reading, if it doesn't something is definitelyby Ralf - General
Strange.. it isn't physically possible to have that large of a temperature swing, but judging from the number of hotend's tested it could indicate a deffective AD input on the processor. You could try to move the hotend thermistor and heater to the heatbed input/output, and see if that works better. The firmware probably won't let you go to more than 150 degrees, but it should be enough to see iby Ralf - General
This could be a hardware issue, short circuit or a bad connection. You shouldn't have temperature readings that jumps +/- 30 degrees. Does it matter if the hotend is turned on or off, as in, if you heat the hotend up and turn it off, does the readings stabilize?by Ralf - General
You'll need to post some more details.. ABS/PLA? Tempareture? Speed? Assuming you print ABS.. Try to raise the temperature a bit, and turn down the heated bed to 95 degrees after the first layer. Also slowing down or printing more items at a time might help.by Ralf - Printing
I have had a similar issue.. though not as bad. I have done two things to overcome it. I redesigned my hotend to be more pointy, in my first design, the heater block was only around 2mm from the print, I raised that to ~7mm and added isotation around the hotend. Also I lowered the bed temperature after the first layer from 110 to 95 degrees, this really made a difference. The theory behind tby Ralf - General
I'm waiting fom some PLA to arrive in the mail, when I get this I'll do a similar test.by Ralf - General
It sounds like your PID parameters for the hotend are wrong, if you have Marlin or Repetier firmware you could try to run a PID autotune.by Ralf - Reprappers
I have just finished testing some red abs I bought off eBay, the label says "ReprapZone", I printed 4 test pieces at 4 different temperatures, 235, 240, 245 and 250 degrees, this was the results, numbers represent breaking load in Kg: 235 degrees: 25.3, 28.3, 29.7, 33.9 240 degrees: 37, 37.8, 39.6, 47.5 245 degrees: 42.6, 44.7, 49.4, 50.6 250 degrees: 45.4, 47, 48, 53 At 250 degrees the tesby Ralf - General
If you get the printing parameters right, ABS parts is quite strong. I have been running some tests with a load cell, to test the layer bonding of the parts I print. The test piece I use is 10x10mm where it is supposed to break apart, I print it with 0.25mm layers 0.5mm width, 2 perimeters and 10% infill. When printed at 245 degrees, the parts come apart at around 40 to 50Kg in a straight pull,by Ralf - General
Pronterface runs slic3r from it's own directory as default, this will most likely be something like C:\Program Files\Pronterface\Slic3r Just rename this to something like Slic3r_old, and copy the new version of Slic3r to the Pronterface directory. But after Slic3r started having selectable presets for slicing settings, I found that it is better to just start Slic3r, slice , export, and then jusby Ralf - General
Just dont place it too hot too early.. I tried this to speed up the drying process, and I ended up with boubbles in the surface from acetone that was stuck inside the part.by Ralf - General
Nice one.. How did you make the silk screen on the PCB? It looks like toner transfer, but when I try to make silkscreen with toner transfeer on doubblesided PCB, it fails epic due to the height from the copper traces creating an uneven surface to iron on.by Ralf - Reprappers
woo Wrote: > thats design error, i have no wobble with > leadscrews.... I don't think you got me right.. Bent leadscrews will give you non linear motion in the Z direction, allmost no matter how rigid your printer is. It is easily within reach to have perfect prints from normal threaded rods as leadscrews, it's just a question of straightening the threaded rods, or carefully finding theby Ralf - General
Remember that you normally use microstepping on reprap's, and many other cnc machines for that matter, this gives smoother operation and a more quiet machne. With 1/8 microstepping you have 1600 steps/rev, on a normal 1.8 deg stepper, this should be ore than enough, even on 8 pitch. But 36$ isn't bad considering that you also get the motor, and you dont have to fit the rod.by Ralf - General
I use the Chinese version og Kapton called Koptan.. it works really well, but stickiness seem to increase over time. Removing the prints from the bed is allmost impossible then it's hot, but if I wait a while and let things cool down, I can usually get the prints off with a gentle tap from a hammer, unless it is a big print.by Ralf - General