For 1.75mm filament a direct drive is sufficient, for 3mm you need more torque. For extruder parts, with the exception of the gears you are better off printing them in ABS to prevent the warping due to temperature. Picture 4 shows a e3d v5 hot end and picture 6 shows a j head, did you tried both or just the j head?by ggherbaz - Printing
Most likely the problem is in the STL file, run it through netfabb cloud and see if it fix it.by ggherbaz - Printing
Please verify that your endstops switches are open when trying to move. You have EEPROM set, are you saving the new settings after flashing? Check with you lcd that the values are correct. I used S3D for all my printer calibrations and operations, so I can't explain whats happening with pronterface.by ggherbaz - Printing
#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {500,500, 1, 25} // (mm/sec) #define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {9000,9000,100,9000} // X, Y, Z, E Try these settings. Do you have an M5 threaded rod for Z? Did you wired the motors or they came already set? Have you tested your endstops with an M119?.by ggherbaz - Printing
Dirty Steve, You are actually "almost correct " to fill the area completely you need to set it to 0.36mm. That setting will cover the most of the square. Total distance 56.56mm 0.35mm will cover: 56.35 0.42mm will cover: 56.28 0.36mm will cover: 56.52 Accounting for filament swell, a nozzle setting of 0.36 will cover all the area in 157 passes (3 on each side for perimeters) . Thanks for the coby ggherbaz - Printing
Can you posted your configuration h file to chech it?by ggherbaz - Printing
The way the slicer creates the extrusion might be the reason for the gaps, if you can do the following: change the width to 0.42 and reduce the infill to perimeter overlap, also check your infill speed, might be going to fast for the extrusion, just make it around 80% of print speed, one last thing, check again the steps per mm on your extruder, it might be just a little off (believe me, a 1/4 oby ggherbaz - Printing
You talked about the belt, but what about the pulley in your motor? The locking bolt might be loosened or worn allowing the motor axle to slip inside?by ggherbaz - Printing
Any reprap printer can do the same, just increase your z axis length and enclose it. You will have to protect or cool your motors if you put them inside the enclosure and if you are building it with printed parts be sure to use ABS or polycarbonate.by ggherbaz - Reprappers
Yeap, I did the same and doesn't work, all metal barrel will clog quickly, the orifice is too big and PLA expand too fast, since the barrel itself isn't actively cooled the filament will stick to it. You can try to polished it, but you may risk making the diameter bigger and make issues worst. If you can, just drill the barrel with a 4mm drill bit and put a PTFE liner. To clean the barrel used aby ggherbaz - Reprappers
Which lcd you have? Just follow the instructions on marlin configuration h. At the bottom section. Pick your model from the list, remove the // in front of it and add the corresponding library. Flash the mod to your board and you are done.by ggherbaz - Reprappers
It's designed to accommodate any nema 17, but will recommend not exceed 40mm in height. I used this one (17HS4401).by ggherbaz - Reprappers
Aqui venden la Prusa i3 en acrilico por unos 350 mas envio, tal vez te pases un poco de los 400.by ggherbaz - RepRap Usergroup - Venezuela
Con unos 60 compras todos los controladores, 60 por los motores, 50 por los ejes, 40 para los cables switches y el "heater bed" y unos 40 para el "Hot end" aunque ni el J head ni el e3d v5 son buenos porque son clones asi que ten cuidado. Asi que con 250 tienes la mayoria del hardware, si compras las partes para el frame te saldran como en unas 120. Lo demas creo que lo puedes comprar en Venezuelby ggherbaz - RepRap Usergroup - Venezuela
Has chequeado Aliexpress? no creo que tengas problemas comprando a China. Con 400 compras todo lo que necesitas y te sobra dinero.by ggherbaz - RepRap Usergroup - Venezuela
Juan, Los hilos son porque estas imprimiendo muy caliente, Baja la temperatura y aumenta la retraccion. PLA no mas de 215, ABS 225. Retraction de 3 a 6mm dependiendo si tienes extrusion directa o bowden, 0.2layer height y velocidad no mayor de 2400 mm/minuto. Has buscado en thingiverse por engranajes? Tienen un pequeño programa que te diseña el engrane cuando le pones la informacion del diseño.by ggherbaz - RepRap Usergroup - Venezuela
Why you don't want to connect the thermistors? You don't have them? Why you want to get something else that does what your board already does? I can't understand the question here, but thermistor = resistor. If you read the specs of a standard thermistor they said 100k, so if you don't have a thermistor to connect to your board, just go to radio shack and get a potentiometer 100k and fake yourby ggherbaz - Reprappers
The mosfet in your board might be getting too hot and shutting down, are you cooling them with a fan? To check for that, just plug your heater bed straight to your power supply and see if it get to temperature, if it does, the your problem is lack of cooling.by ggherbaz - Reprappers
I disagree with you about 3d printed parts. The principle of reprap is to have the ability to self-replicate your printer, the only way to fulfill that is through the use of printed parts to assemble your printer. I have designed a couple of them and they perform as intended. Yes you can start with "cheap" parts and then print stronger ones (most of the people involved in reprap does just that).by ggherbaz - General
Look over 3d hubs in your area, it won't be free, it won't be cheap, but a lot cheaper than shapeways.by ggherbaz - General
I print for businesses, 0.75 cents per cubic centimeter (ABS, PLA) and a $15.00 start fee. Look over 3d hubs to get an idea of prices in your area.by ggherbaz - Reprappers
I wanted to create a little printer that could be as much self replicating as possible, used the less amount of hardware and be stable. After some thinking and designing, this was the end result. Originally designed for the e3d V5, but having issues printing with PLA (ABS no problems) I have designed different attachments for other hotends. After assembled, found out that the electronics housiby ggherbaz - Reprappers
Most of the cheap clip lamps out there (Walmart, dollar store,etc.) Are rated for only 40 watts, but that is just because of the socket, so unless you got a lamp rated for 200 watts bulb you need to replace the socket to prevent melting the cables and risk of fire.by ggherbaz - Printing
Thanks for the files. I will be downloaded them tonight.by ggherbaz - General
This last part that I make for a customer broke one of my glasses, and as you can see it doesn't have too much surface to grab on.by ggherbaz - Printing
Don't know why, but even the white stick one from Elmer don't work the same as the purple? ?? I don't dilute it, and to put it this way: I have lost 3 glasses to this glue. I don't use ABS juice, nor kapton or painters tape, just plain glass, this glue and the most important part: a perfectly leveled bed.by ggherbaz - Printing
Not familiar with that board sorry, the AD597A should be for the thermocouple and looks like you have some drilled holes in the board to solder your cables, but not sure of that and how to set it on firmware. Best advice is to contact them and get all the info you need.by ggherbaz - Reprappers
Here you go: Mine is also on thingiverse, but I recommend you the Russian one.by ggherbaz - Reprappers
I started with an smartrap, then I designed my own version of it and then went to design a i3 style one. It is very simple yes, but has some serious flaws, specially for beginners, if you go with it be sure to get the modified one (rack and pinion or timing belts mod) there is a Russian guy that did some serious modifications to the original smartrap and seams to be really good, but don't know whby ggherbaz - Reprappers