Here is my approach. 4 bearings in all three parts. Set screws to clamp x rods instead of hammer assembly. Solid 1 piece x carraige. Rock solid.by elwood127 - Reprappers
Thanks guys. Off to get some bigger wire.by elwood127 - Reprappers
Points taken. It's the bigger prints that are the issue. Tried abs wash and now using elmers gluestick which works great on smaller parts. I'll have to try hairspray. Thanks.by elwood127 - Reprappers
Where are you adjusting the voltage? PS or control board? Thanks.by elwood127 - Reprappers
Just watched another print curl on me. Got pissed and drew these to clamp down brim.by elwood127 - Reprappers
Hey I'm up to 100 but took forever.by elwood127 - Reprappers
I just redesigned and am printing right now new X motor and idler mounts and a solid block to mount my extruder and motor. Cheap bearing holder flopped terribly. Have install the center section w/ 4 bearings and is solid as a rock. My printer is a cheap plexiglass model. Well was. It's getting better as I go. P.s. I changed the smooth rod holes to utilize set screws. rediculous having to bang theby elwood127 - Reprappers
I spent about 2 hours looking for bearings. Some as high as $40.00. Can't just buy them. They want to give quotes. German companies are awesome but pricy. There IS a difference in quality.by elwood127 - Reprappers
Now it's up to 97. Took about 15 minutes to gain 5 degrees.by elwood127 - Reprappers
Out of the blue my temp fluxuates between 90 and 92 when set to 100c. Used to go where ever I asked it. Power supply tanking? Melzi board dieing? It's the latest version. Abs not wanting to stick as well. Plexiglass I3. Thanks.by elwood127 - Reprappers
I did the badly needed upgrades on this little thing. Replaced X motor and idler mounts(originals were terrible prints and caused binding), replaced the exstruder mount with a (4) linear bearing job (hotend doesn't wiggle anymore), put a 1.75mm $20.00 hotend on that flows like a jet engine, added a Y axis belt tensioner, an adjustable Z endstop holder, a spool holder and a redesigned, thicker andby elwood127 - Reprappers
Sorry Dust, I bought a similar hotend for $20.00 and it works like a dream. I'm printing at 70mm/sec. Very happy.by elwood127 - Reprappers
Hey O lampe,good question. The original setup used screws and wing nuts. Very cheesy. Using Slic3r the honeycomb infill beat the hell out of the printer and leveling settings. I've since switched to Cura. The grid infill is a much smoother operation. The nylon nuts have been a great improvement. I do like your idea of using countersink screws. Hey Tazzbot, I'm waiting for a cork sheet delivery. Tby elwood127 - Reprappers
Thanks for the knowledge gentleman. Slowly but surely starting to understand the reasons why a quality built machine makes such a difference in print quality. I appreciate you taking the time to enlighten the unknowing.by elwood127 - Reprappers
Hey Doc, these are my numbers. Would I change x and y offset in printer settings? Using repetier and cura. Physical length of X axis (mm): 200.00 Physical length of Y axis (mm): 200.00 X = 101.50 Measured length of test rectangle X (mm): Y = 100.14 Measured length of test rectangle Y (mm): Z = 143.30 Measured length of test rectangle long diagonal (mm): Ideal diagonal length (mm): 1by elwood127 - Reprappers
Got an email from Jameco electronics highlighting there new mini computer. Thought you might be interested.by elwood127 - Reprappers
I read here that teflon tape is working well.by elwood127 - General
Thanks guys. I'm going to download the Doc's files and see what happens.by elwood127 - Reprappers
You need more flow. I'm running at 240c but until I mounted a fan where filament enters the extruder and eventually a finned hotend I couldn't raise feed rate because filament was melting above the cool zone causing jams. Since fan install I'm getting 100mm/sec movements with no jams.by elwood127 - Reprappers
Hey all, I noticed that my build plate springs (right side) were almost completely collapsed compared to the left side springs. I put a mic on the left and right X axis mounts and found a .053 inch difference. Turned the right lead screw by hand until height matched left motor mount. Readjusted leveling screws. Measured from X axis rods to bed and am within .002 now. I think I'm going to make a gby elwood127 - Reprappers
I just got my MC springs. Started having trouble with a print only to find that the springs had collapsed from the heat. Tubing is sounding great.by elwood127 - Reprappers
I have to say that reading these types of discussions is an amazing learning experience. Some of this went right over my head but slowly starting to get it. Upgrading components is both terrifying and exciting. I can't wait. Thanks for your knowledge.by elwood127 - Reprappers
Here is the least expensive Crydom SSR I've found.by elwood127 - Reprappers
Very informative discussion. Thanks all.by elwood127 - Reprappers
You know, that was completely stupid. I need the control board to regulate the heatbed. I guess a voltage divider for the pc board power. Anyone built a divider and if so what resistance and wattage resistors did you use. Please don't make me use Ohm's Law. It hurts the brain.by elwood127 - Reprappers
Been doing some reading. I think I'm going to use the 24volt ps for my heatbed only. Just want to use the 24 volt heatbed feature to speed up heating times. Thanks.by elwood127 - Reprappers
My new M2K heatbed was shaped like a cereal bowl. I use 1/8th inch aluminum plate with 1/8th inch glass. It's enough to flatten the heatbed with clips. Are silicone heatbeds a better option?by elwood127 - General
Hey all, suppliers make it sound like a 24 volt power supply is interchangeable with a 12 volt. Quicker heatup times and stepper tourqe. Will my Melzi board handle this. I do have a 12v/24v heat bed. Thanks.by elwood127 - Reprappers