This is my hotbed: This is my relay: I am using a separate power supply for just the hotbed, I have connected the hotbed out from the ramps 1.4 board to the relay but the ramps board does not output any voltage from the hotbed positive and negative, it reads zero on my volt meter, everything else I have gotten working but this, x, y,z and extruder steppers work, I am about to try a hotend tby lunarkingdom - General
sure do! Wiring is correct as per this image:by lunarkingdom - General
Hey guys I have 0 volts to hot bed from ramps 1.4 with marlin firmware on a new install, all I need it to do is give me 12 volts for my second power supply relay but after I turn it on via pronterface it says on the lcd it is 17c and 110c is not it's goal the ramps 1.4 board is putting out 0 volts where there should be bang bang 12 volts for the heat bed. Anyone know if this is a PWM vs PID thingby lunarkingdom - General
never mind it was limit switch issues, I sorted them.by lunarkingdom - General
ok as a follow up I have made some progress, I used 2 jumpers for the Y and Z end stops and can now move one way, if I have to use mechanical end stops I have some I can wire up. I assume my limit switch settings in my marlin firmware are not set correctly, any idea what working settings are for mechanical end stops? My config for endstops: //=====================================================by lunarkingdom - General
Hey guys, I am setting up my firmware for the first time, I got the marlin files and the arduino editor, I was able to get my lcd screen and knob working but I am having a heck of a time getting my stepper motors to work. I have all 3 jumpers under the pololu boards which are in the correct orientation. I do not have any limit switches hooked up as I have some optical ones which came with my kitby lunarkingdom - General
I bought a similar kit, it was a great introduction into 3d printing, having said that you should keep your speeds low if you want the extruder to work all the time without shredding filament. My upgrading to a bulldog xl and 3.0mm filament helped reliability but it's mass wore out the linear bearings from wobble. It is as good a start as you are going to get in that price range. Get it, learn thby lunarkingdom - General
I must be crazy then as I use a feeler gage for spark plug gaps and use .010 or ten thousandths of an inch, works great for me ;-)by lunarkingdom - General
This is what I ended up getting, almost exactly what you mentioned but with the large screen: link to ebay auction I bought mine from I have not fired it up yet but probably will get to that point this weekend.by lunarkingdom - General
it looks like your adhesion between layers is bad, I would try going hotter, I typically run 245C for abs, depending on how accurate your thermistor is you might want to try even higher, unless I get wind blowing on my print I dont seem to need an enclosure to print good. I usually use bed temp for first layer 105c and for the rest 100c.by lunarkingdom - Printing
Awesome Ideas guys, thank you for sharing!by lunarkingdom - Mechanics
Thought I would add I use an ice pack for when you get hurt I bought at the pharmacy on my print as soon as I turn off the hot bed, it rapidly cools down the print and the bed and the thermal diffusivity caused by doing that pops the print off in about 5-7 minutes or by the time it gets the printer bed to around 20-25C. Once again, works every time!by lunarkingdom - General
Right but like I said, on 3 different types of readily available glass you can print ABS with a 3mm skirt and 3 light layers of aqua net hair spray at 105c first layer and 100c for the rest of your print and be successful 99.99% of the time so why bother with anything else? The exact aqua net hairspray I use is "extra super hold" in the purple can: Why do anything other than what works when yoby lunarkingdom - General
and.....I got kicked down another rail and bearing block today, going to use it for my y axis ;-)by lunarkingdom - General
Kind of wondering why it would matter, regular glass (home depot), tempered glass and borosilicate glass all work fine for me with no problems using a 3mm skirt and 3 light layers of aqua net hair spray at 105c first layer and 100c for the rest of the print. I can print an entire bed worth of parts and have none lift the corners even a bit.by lunarkingdom - General
If you do not have enough current it might not be pushing enough on the filament, try turning up your current by turning the e0 (assuming you have a ramps 1.4 board) pololu potentiometer clockwise, if you go to far it will start clicking or making noise, usually less tan a quarter turn is necessary, there are how to guides out there to adjust your current with a volt meter as well. This is all Iby lunarkingdom - Printing
zavashier, it is 20mm. this thing is solid as it has 2% preload, I only have the one bearing block.by lunarkingdom - General
new (to me) parts: data pdf for R1622 814 20:by lunarkingdom - General
if it is tinted on one side that means you have a plastic coating on one side, that would explain why it sticks but if that is the case you can remove it with a razor blade and it is not very durable of a coating at all.by lunarkingdom - General
I agree to a certain extent but at the same time I would encourage others to experiment, do not quit your day job though ;-) and do not spend more than you can afford.by lunarkingdom - General
I concur, my prusa i3 is acrylic frame and it is like cardboard, I can get some decent prints off it but you only get what you put into it, I like the square all aluminum extrusion frames, they seem to be the most sturdy out there but they are pricey. You get what you pay for, I am however glad I bought a prusa i3 with acrylic frame as a good starting point to learn what I want from a 3d printerby lunarkingdom - Prusa i3 and variants
Zavashier, Thank you for clarifying, your choice of words in your earlier post make better sense knowing English is not your first spoken language, I apologize for taking offense. My goal is to have a 12x12x12 inch print area with one hot end. I achieve very good results printing with my current machine with a .4mm nozzle and the frame is as flimsy as cardboard, thus starting with a 500mm squareby lunarkingdom - General
That is good advice, I do have linear rails and bearing blocks available from my workplace, my boss offered to kick me down some that are an older style they do not use any more if I need them which is cool. My only concern was that a nema 17 might not be able to move the extra friction as fast and I might have to upgrade what motors I am using so that is why I am using the 8mm rods first. I guesby lunarkingdom - General
Edited for offense taken where it was not meant to be.by lunarkingdom - General
Edited for offense taken where it was not meant to be. This is the prusa i3 that I previously bought, if you look at it I am building the same thing with an overbuilt frame for rigidity, the prusa i3 I bought is slowly falling apart because it has a frame made out of lexan. Ultimately, the only thing in the picture in my first post that I do not consider to be upgradable is the frame, it isby lunarkingdom - General
I am currently building a prusa i3 scale up with a 12 inch (300mm) hot bed, for rigidity I am looking at 2 pieces of 1/4 inch aluminum that are 12" x 14" to allow for the 3 point leveling system. My current setup uses .175 inch thick aluminum and it is warped/warping from the 4 point leveling system and the even thinner retainer plate that screws to the bearing blocks. My new build is using the sby lunarkingdom - General
use a brim to help with bed adhesion, I typically use 3mm for all my abs parts and it just pulls off when the print releases after you are done.by lunarkingdom - General
I used to have this problem but since I started using cold packs for injuries to rapid cool my bed and parts they pop off on their own, I found the rapid change of temp makes them come loose, I used to pry and twist parts to get them off after they had cooled down on their own = bad idea.by lunarkingdom - General
bookmarked, thanks for the tip!by lunarkingdom - General