Quotesimspeed Thanks Ian...I tried to like you blog post but password isn't working. Very informative information. Thanks for putting the time and effort in to show what good printing looks like. Thanks. Ref "likes". I can't see anything in the site settings that require visitors to use a password. It's just a bog standard Wordpress blog (the free version). Can you try leaving a comment pleasby deckingman - Developers
This is quick follow up to my earlier high speed tests, this time to clean up print quality. The associated video is much shorter (less than 8 minutes) Worth watching IMO. Extruders running backwards! It looks and sounds crazy but prints beautifully (considering the speeds that is).by deckingman - Developers
Not sure if this is the best place on these forums for this but here is a link to my latest blog post . The results may surprise you (they did me). Warning. The associated video is 27 minutes long (but worth watching IMO) Ianby deckingman - Developers
I'd say that the spikes are too short in duration to be a true representation of the actual bed temperature, so it looks like a noisy signal. Could be a bad connection or picking up interference from a stepper or it's wiring. Whatever the cause, it looks like a wiring issue to me.by deckingman - Printing
QuoteCVRIV Totally agree. The frame/ case for my printer needs to be solid as hell. Going to first design something using T-Slot aluminum extrusion. I will research other structural materials I can use as well. Im going to gear down the z-axis and extruder. I'm assuming im I can use some kind of gearing program to design some gears to import into my 3D software so that the gears can be furtherby deckingman - General
QuoteDancer It's always a good Idea to build your 2nd Printer while the first one stil around and working :-) You can reprint parts for your 2nd one as often as needed:-) I'll second that !by deckingman - General
I've just finished printing a complete set of all the plastic parts of my printer as spares, using E3D Edge which is a PETG. It's a bit stringy and has an affinity for sticking to the nozzle but it doesn't need support! Well maybe it might but the fan ducts on my X carriage have a 31mm bridge which Edge managed without support. Here is a picture of it As for PETG not sticking to PLA, maybe tby deckingman - Printing
To the OP. Firstly welcome to these forums and I wish you well with your endeavours. Can you clarify what you mean by this statement. "Is mechanically robust, so as to push Jerk and the resulting printing speed as high as possible without introducing ghosting.................." As an engineering student you must know that the first derivative of position with respect to time is velocity, the sby deckingman - Developers
My first printer (which I still have) was an original Mendel that I initially built from a kit as single colour but then did the tricolour upgrade. It's a little later than the model shown in the pic (the extruders are in a different position). It uses an IR sensor mounted on the head that homes both X and Z. Is that what you have? If not, then I suspect yours is a very early model in which caseby deckingman - General
Here is mine if you are interested. The Z motor is underneath the front mount. I used thrust bearings under the screws to take the downwards load with "conventional" bearings above. The fixture to the bed allows some degree of "tilt" for levelling. I simply slacken the screws on the pulleys and rotate the lead screws to level the bed. Did it initially, then again after a month or so whenby deckingman - CoreXY Machines
I have a single Nema 17 driving 3 leads screws lifting a 10mm thick 400mmx 400mm bed. It's this one I'd personally steer well clear of ball screws due to the course lead. Friction is a minor concerned compared to the mass involved. especially at the speeds we need to run our Z axes. In fact, course lead and low friction ball screws (which are designed for high speed linear moves) could give theby deckingman - CoreXY Machines
Quotefrankvdh Quotedeckingman Then there comes the question, what do you need to print that has to be multi colour? Is it all worth the cost and hassle? I keep asking myself that question and the jury is still out. Wrong question! The correct question is "Is it fun?"........................ ................... Same answer - the jury is still out. On reflection though, I guess the answer must bby deckingman - Developers
The extruder printed part might only be a few dollars but then you need a hobbed bolt or some such to grip the filament, maybe some bearings, certainly some screws, PTFE bowden tubes (lots of it), 4 core cable (lots of that too) and with the motor itself, even doing it on the cheap, you'll not get much change out of 30 dollars or so * 6 =$180. Then you need 6 rolls of filament, at say $20 a reelby deckingman - Developers
Ref retraction. At least with the Diamond hot end, what you have to do is retract all 3 filaments simultaneously even if only one is in use, otherwise if you retract a single filament, all that happens is the filament gets drawn from one of the other inputs instead of the nozzle tip. Maybe another approach might be just to use a single clear, transparent filament then mix dye to the desired coloby deckingman - Developers
@n9jcv. Are you use software bed level compensation in any form?by deckingman - CoreXY Machines
QuoteMikexx Quotedeckingman Oh sorry, but you did say feed rate which implies filament feed rate not print speed. Also, that is so slow that I was assuming you meant extrusion speed. In that case, you have something very seriously wrong. A partial blockage is the usual culprit. Do you get the same with all 3 inputs? I've only ever had this happen once, just after I assembled a new one. The fixby deckingman - Printing
QuoteDjDemonD That's a serious bit of kit Ian. I love the passive following gantry. Thanks DJ. It solves the problem of how to mount 3 extruders whilst still keeping the Bowden tubes short. Mounting the extruders directly on the hot end is a non starter just because of the amount of room they would take up. I did look into it but however I packaged them, I'd lose more than 100mm of travel in botby deckingman - CoreXY Machines
Oh, lots of question. No artefacts noticed as yet. If you look closely, you'll see that I deliberately left some slack in the wires that connect the two carriages, effectively decoupling them to some extent. This means that with short moves, such as short zigzag infill and small holes, the movement of the hot end carriage isn't directly mimicked by the extruder carriage, but largely taken up byby deckingman - CoreXY Machines
Here is a link to the latest evolution of my printer Alternative titles "One way to mount 3 extruders on a 600mm x 600mm x 1,000mm frame and keep the Bowden tube length down to 170mm" or "Why you probably don't need Nema 23s as Nema 17s will likely do the job.by deckingman - CoreXY Machines
Quotefrankvdh Right... so the screw needs to turn at a faster rate than the filament flow rate, with room around the outside of the screw for filament to flow back. Perhaps the ultimate would be a paddle wheel which just rotates the molten filament in the mixing chamber and doesn't push it out at all. Yes, I do believe that's how the guy who posts on these forums (can't remember his name) is doiby deckingman - Developers
As I said in one of my earlier posts, the stripey toothpaste effect is very real, as PDBeal has reiterated. If you set mixing ratios of 33% for each of the 3 filaments (using a Diamond hot end) then print a 3 sided object with each face orientated towards one of the filament inputs, you end up with each face a different colour. I did a bit of a write up on my blog which is in my signature - takeby deckingman - Developers
Oh sorry, but you did say feed rate which implies filament feed rate not print speed. Also, that is so slow that I was assuming you meant extrusion speed. In that case, you have something very seriously wrong. A partial blockage is the usual culprit. Do you get the same with all 3 inputs? I've only ever had this happen once, just after I assembled a new one. The fix for me was to heat the hot eby deckingman - Printing
Quotefrankvdh ..............................Plugging a hole that isn't being used is surely a non-issue? Just leave some filament in there. Actually, IMO it's not a bad idea to have unused inputs plugged. I used to just leave filament in my diamond when only printing a single colour but there are two issues. Firstly you need to retract and un-retract all filaments simultaneously otherwise allby deckingman - Developers
As a long time user of the Diamond, here are a few points to consider. Firstly, the Diamond is actually very bad at mixing. What comes out of the nozzle tip is akin to stripey toothpaste. I'm not seeing anything in your design that would be any better in this respect. Ideally, there needs to be some sort of stirring action to mix the filaments. IMO a replaceable nozzle is a must. I've recentlby deckingman - Developers
12mm/sec extrusion rate is pretty dammed good. If you are trying to push filament through that fast, no wonder the force is high. Assuming 1.75mm diameter filament the area is about 2.4 mm^2 so at 12mm / sec that's around 28.9 mm^3 per sec. The best you could hope for on something like an E3D V6 is about 15 mm^3/sec and on a volcano it's about 40 mm^3/sec. So your getting almost twice what a staby deckingman - Printing
It's up to you to supply the tolerances. With no tolerances specified how can the fabricator know what you want? Bear in mind that the tighter the tolerance, the more it will cost. e.g a hole with a loose tolerance can likely be drilled, but a hole with a tight tolerance will likely be drilled undersize then reamed to the the correct size, meaning an extra operation, hence higher cost. Engineeriby deckingman - General
QuoteSatorCodex Sir! That is impressive work!! Thanks but I didn't make the post for any sort of plaudits. Just to demonstrate that even with a 600mm x 600mm frame, with belts around 2.4metres in length and shifting 1.9kg of mass, standard (ebay's finest) 6mm GT2 belts and Nema 17 motors are perfectly capable of achieving good results. The printer has been running for about 6 months and thereby deckingman - General
For info, my Core XY has a build area a tad under 400 x 400 and 740 in Z. The main frame is 600 x 600 x 1,000. I can print stuff like this and this and there are some other things on my Youtube channel. The bed weighs in at around 7kg (10mm thick aluminium topped with 6mm thick float glass) and is lifted by 3 screws driven by a single Nema 17 via a continuous belt. As configured in the videos,by deckingman - General
Yes apologies, got my my decimal point in the wrong place but the principle is the same.by deckingman - General
Quoteo_lampe Most people here call 1/4 steps " safe". Anything above is just for noise reduction. My personal gut feeling tells me, that once the initial inertia problems are overcome, the position accuracy is pretty good. ( With reasonable low acceleration and deceleration ). So I don't see a problem with 2.5 full steps. As long as you don't try to lift the bed by 0.5 steps only, it should workby deckingman - General