Thanks sublime very useful info. Ill let you know how it goes.by hexitex - General
yeah, sorry 0.5 and printing with absby hexitex - General
thanks but i have tried it, it doesn't have enough control to limit the z-speed and you need to do that on a sans Mendel but if Slic3r can do it, does anybody have suggestions for Skeinforge ?by hexitex - General
getting very poor quality from 2.5 layer height - anybody come across this? width over ratio is 1.83 see poor webcam shotby hexitex - General
Hexagon is an excellent modelling program, that is all is does, no fancy rendering, animation, or effects - just modelling! with support for many formats - it's free so anybody wanting a good modeller should download it. It does take a little time getting into but it is worth it.by hexitex - General
mate, i can't take it apart now, done some bed calibration but.. i took some pics in situ. see attached sorry about quality,. using a camera phone with no flash! first pic (under) is showing the clamp and washers second pic, much of the same but moving you about to get your bearings, so shows the nozzle third pic (top) is the added heat exchangers (more washers) the magnet is in there somewby hexitex - Reprappers
maybe worth trying a fan on the heat sink or do as i do add a steel clamp (like on those soldering mates) around the barrel with a small magnet so you can keep adding washers, most of my jams are due to heat traveling up the barrel. But if you are pushing 1.75 through a 3mm hole then fix that first, it will bend under pressure.by hexitex - Reprappers
There are a lot of variables: plastics - diameter -quality insulation on hot end heater size and type extrusion speed heat sinks nozzle size - length - width -wall thickness material used for nozzle - brass - copper -steel - aluminum fan cooled So based of the above, it is tricky. I just installed a new hotend from reprap-fab.org and have had problems getting it to work, solution was a heaby hexitex - General
Hexagon is good modelling program, takes a little getting into but very good with STL output. Don't use the other two but they look ok - Daz Studio is more a figure poser and animation, Bryce has been around for years, has good landscape ability. Get them here http://www.daz3d.comby hexitex - General
as promised, link to shim on thingiverse Shimby hexitex - General
Thanks Chaps, I think it would work, I've built a model that is very economical with plastic, I'll share it on thingiverse tonight (at work at the moment)by hexitex - General
I saw a video on youtube where a milling machine levelled it's own bed by cutting it and thought this may be a good idea for cold bed printing. You print a small height shim for the size of your bed and then put a bit of glass or whatever you use to print on - on top of the shim. The idea being that that as you print the shim the height differances would be levelled out by the act of the plasticby hexitex - General
Thanks JB, Useful information. I get virtually no blobbing effects - that said, my prints are now just as good as the infamous nophead - but i run 24mm max, and this is due to hot end issues with the orbitech abs, their docs say 260c for extrusion - way out of the park. So I run 250 at the moment and slow it down which gives very goods results. So I think at these speeds the effect might justby hexitex - Skeinforge
A very nice feature indeed, anybody got a clue as to what the settings mean? I think it would be a nice addition if the outer perimeters had a back and forth option covering the whole outer loops area in one pass instead of two separate loops - does that make any sense? current top down view ==== two outer loops ==== second layer loops suggested matte option /\/\/\/\/ one loop to replace twby hexitex - Skeinforge
Ah, ok. not going to use it until i know what it does, thanks anywayby hexitex - Skeinforge
No Skin, honest it's in the latest version. see attachedby hexitex - Skeinforge
Can anybody shed some light on what this does? search here and the web but nothing!by hexitex - Skeinforge
Sorry, the PTFE insert is the white part the brown bit is threaded peek that screws into the nozzel. Actual pictures are not possible unless i take it all apart. So, the PTFE is completely held in place - it can't move anywhere because the peek and nozzle are compressing the lip - no shrinkage!by hexitex - General
After 5 months of frustration with my hot end(s) I have finally found a solution that works. All of my hot ends have been based on a PFTE insert, and they generally work well until ABS comes into the picture, it really does want more than 240c to print and this is where i have been failing for so long. PTFE does work well until you hit (or after) 250c, I don't care what anybody says it is bad newby hexitex - General
I am having the same issue(s), here is what I have confirmed: Running my bench grinder does indeed reset ramps - 99% of the time, but running my lathe there is no problems at all - I suspect this is due the quality of the electronics used in each appliance. When my laptop goes into screen off mode - there is a worrying pause but it always seems to continue (I did switch off power saving on theby hexitex - General
nothing new in the concept here except the fact that it is maybe free? new cloud based software from autodesk http://labs.autodesk.com/utilities/photo_scene_editor/by hexitex - General
thanks brnrd, but i wanted to go to higher voltage as 12v would not get to the 120c needed for ABS first layer adhesion. I know ramps can run on 30v power supply but as volts increase so does the cost 24v seemed to be just below the expensive threshold (taking amps ito account as well)by hexitex - RAMPS Electronics
I initially run the heated bed (4x 2R2 clad resistors) direct from Ramps but found that the fuse on the ramps board would kick in every now and then so I was abusing it. I switched to a simple coil relay and a cheap power supply (24volt) from ebay - works well easy to get to 110c (about 4 mins), have not tried higher yet. I switch the relay direct from the D10 pins, there does seem to be a issueby hexitex - RAMPS Electronics
just finished building the Arcol hot end, looks great and very well designed for wires and heat containment, the design is also very simple - now does it work? going to try the .35 nozzle first, any problems with that i have a backup .5 nozzle. have printed the modified x carriage from thingyverse and will use accessible wades with hinge and a rather nice hobbed bolt from arcol as wellby hexitex - General
fair point, thermistor neededby hexitex - General
Andrew Diehl Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > That gas one will do more harm than good for > soldering circuits. why? i been using it for months now without any problemsby hexitex - General
get a gas one like this , fast heatup time, hot knife, hotair attachment and blowtorch!by hexitex - General
I have had the same problem with non-round ABS filament (cheap stuff) switching to round PLA filament and the problem went away - but not for round ABS. I used the thingyverse holder to make my hobbed bolt using a lathe and M4 tap but had to cut into the bolt thread which isn't nice as the groove is uneven (the bolt holder is plastic and does give way during turning even at 100% infil)- waiting fby hexitex - General
Orbi-tech Don't run a heated bed!!!! I bought this and had many warping problems, only recently did i switch off the heated bed and like magic it prints very large objects +100mm completely flat with a nice mirror like finish - this is nice PLA that is not brittle like many others. Boy did i wish i knew not to print with a heated bed and i would have saved lots of rubbish prints. The best PLA fby hexitex - General
Seriously? Your z stage moves at 150mm /sec! my god that must mean that your stepper is running at 120 RPS or 7200 RPM! You sure about that?by hexitex - RAMPS Electronics