Andrew, your understanding of how copyright applies to physical objects is has no basis in US law. It's well established law to that on which copyright applies. The USPTO details quite clearly what is and isn't covered under copyright. A Wade's geared extruder is most certainly not covered by copyright though the source files are. In fact US law specifically differentiates each type. Whileby vegasloki - General
If you've been trying brims that wide and they still don't adhere there is an issue elsewhere. A skirt and brim are two different concepts and not designed to be used as a single unit. You can print a skirt to equalize your hot end and you can print a brim to hold your parts down (or use both) but they aren't meant to be joined as a single unit.by vegasloki - General
QuoteCraigMoberg So we have one vote for glue stick working well with ABS, and one vote for it not working well. It's tough being a newbie. Yep, it is tough knowing what to do when you're new to the process. Ultimately you have to do what works best for you. I don't see it as a vote, rather what I've been doing for the last few years. Not all glue sticks are the same just as all hairspray isby vegasloki - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotejcabrer I've posted several times over the years on the topic of Printing on Glass. Here is a compilation. It's all about temperature people. Adding anything to the glass, or sanding it, is just a crutch. The underlying problem not being addressed is one of the following. I see adhesion promotion as a tool, not a crutch. For example our machines exist to print parts. Plain borofloat, eby vegasloki - Prusa i3 and variants
For ABS a strong glue stick like UHU stick works well. Sometimes too well. I've been using it with ABS and higher temp plastics nearly a couple of years. I use hairspray for PLA and lower temp plastics. The main thing for any print is to make sure the nozzle to bed distance is set properly for the particular build/machine. You don't need a mechanism to do it. If you have a square, relativeby vegasloki - Prusa i3 and variants
It was re-referred back to the Judiciary committee. It's not going to make it out of committee. It's a non issue.by vegasloki - General
Compare your configuration.h file to the file in this Github. That's the file I've used on many machines. If you have a standard i3 Rework build it should work out of the box.by vegasloki - Prusa i3 and variants
QuotepushthatbolderYes i know that. I was just stating it to support my post.. i know how measurement and numbers work The issue with your drawing conversions has to do with how drawing programs deal with measurements. They are based in an abstract way as "units" and those units are set in preferences and displayed accordingly. They typically aren't converted and need to be re-scaled by a sizeby vegasloki - General
Yes, a Reifsnyder made JHead is worth the money. There are some others. I haven't used the Merlin but have used the Aluhead, E3D and Genie all with excellent results.by vegasloki - General
QuoteIkiwi Thank you for all your answers, I know that this cannot be patented, and I hope that the posts were just jokes. I am from Germany and we have still a more or less working patent system, where you cannot patent that easy. But still sometimes if somebody form the US tries to make such a joke I start thinking if this could be somehow true We just want to give away some Hotends for indby vegasloki - General
Quotejmaeding Its great that Autodesk has figured out some cool process, and are making it available to select business partners. I'm not picking on the good things they have done, and are doing there. I am picking on their marketing, and to say this project is open, with the huge generic logos they did (see attached), is slimy. The only way they get away with it is no one knows what the spark tby vegasloki - General
Spark is different than Reprap in that it's an end to end platform under a common API and toolset. It's meant for developers and manufacturers, not specifically for DIY or end users. To participate in the Ember (the machine is called Ember) early release program they want you to be a commerical user. in fact the TOS of the deal specifically forbids home use, including home office at this pointby vegasloki - General
Since I've posted I'm swapping out the E3D on the production MM2s. Two more have jammed since then. Unless you are buy them in resale batches Brian usually has them on his site. If he's out he'll post a batch on Fri morning PA time. The only thing I don't like about them is the polyimide tape attachement. I kept threatening to drill and tap small holes for mounting (which is one area the Eby vegasloki - General Mendel Topics
It's leaning toward 1.75 but you can still get good prints from 3.0. I think the color choice is a vendor specfic issue. I just changed the machines in the farm to E3D. I'd used the v4 and v5 and had issues with low temp plastics. The V6 is much better in that regard though I still had to work through issues. The primary issue is the heater block getting loose after the first few kg of materiby vegasloki - General Mendel Topics
Quotebj0 This is why I was looking at the Replikeo steel frame and trying to figure out why the NWRepRap one was so expensive. . One reason is steel is considerably less expensive than AL. At US wholesale for US material the difference in price is about 35-50% with steel being less expensive. With import material the cost is even less. Over here if you can get small batch waterjet for aroundby vegasloki - General Mendel Topics
Warping of the proper wood or engineered composite wood isn't an issue. The structure of the rod frame holds the wood in place. A three piece sgraber type frame is more stable than either an aluminum or steel frame single plate frames in my experience. There is less vibration particularly as the Z increases in a frame that uses rear supports. On the single plate designs the weak point is onlby vegasloki - General Mendel Topics
QuoteBlue Ice Most RepRaps today are a bit behind the on-market technology (auto bed-level, etc) in terms of the stock designs and kits. With tweaking, you can get a more skilled (read: easier) printer (#2 above). You'll find pretty much all of the technology employed in lower end consumer printers, sub US$2k range, uses technology derivied from Repraps or Repstraps. There might be somethingby vegasloki - Prusa i3 and variants
They are called Molex SL connectors but others have them as well. The 4 position motor plug is a Molex 50-57-9404 or compatable The 3 position endstop plug is a Molex 50-57-9403 or compatable The 2 postion thermistor plug is a Molex 50-57-9402 or compatable Data sheet for the 4 position The MOSFET out connectors I don't have a part number handy. can use Philmore 13-2602. They're called "Phby vegasloki - General
I just got one of each to test. I've got the MK2 up and going. Excellent quality, easy to use. PLA extrusion is as good as E3D or authentic JHead, which I consider the gold standard of FFF hotends. I got them to test on PLA only machines but will try some ABS at some point.by vegasloki - Smart_Rap
Either PLA or ABS will be fine on the Smartrap. The issue of the rod size comes up often these days. Serge changed to a 6 mm rod in more recent versions. It makes the X and Y axis lighter but it makes it more difficult to source for some and in terms or pricing (as least at my wholesale prices) there isn't really a difference in the cost. There are STLs in the current repo for 8 mm builds. Iby vegasloki - Smart_Rap
Quoteslim2k Right, I just measured with calipers and a 100mm command travelled 74.95mm. Would this be the issue? Another issue is the extruder motor is clicking and jumping, Yes, that would be an issue. How did you calibrate the printer? Specifically how did you determine the steps/mm to set in the firmware? The steps are what the machine uses to know how far to travel. If you issue a commby vegasloki - General Mendel Topics
There have been a few iterations with the hot end mounts where the versioning in the repo hasn't been changed. The initial 0.4.9.2 used a JHead Lite style hot end with mechanical endstops. There is now a traditional JHead version from Serge that uses a PCB mount end stop. I haven't pushed any of my changes for a few weeks, the original JHead Lite files for mechanical endstops are at . Thereby vegasloki - Smart_Rap
While there are some i3 kits where the quality is lacking, building an i3 in and of itself isn't too difficult. The important part is managing your expectations and knowing the limits of your experience. From you post it looks like you have that part covered. I'd suggest a kit from a well known source but you can also source your own. If you source your own use build docs/logs that are consisby vegasloki - General
Sketchup is a good way to learn how to 3D drawing/modeling. They've got a fair amount of training info online. You can start here I've got Blender but I don't think it's well suited for this sort of work. We need a tool for a manufacturing workflow, not a creative modeling workflow. Other tools like Solidworks and Inventor have not only steep learning curves but steep price tags as well. Aby vegasloki - General
If you send the frame out for cutting they won't need any dimensions. You want the dxf to be one layer, object lines only, no dimensions. If you don't they'll have to and may charge you for it though most will review your file anyway (and charge you) to insure that it's going to work before they run the job. They'll input your dxf into the CAM of whatever machine is doing the cutting. On mostby vegasloki - General Mendel Topics
QuoteSimianSteam Problem solved. Thank you, Reprap IRC channel! When you solve an issue like that away from the forum it's a good practice to show the fix so others with the same issue can follow your lead.by vegasloki - General Mendel Topics
The X and Y axis use 6mm rod. You'll need to revise at least the X and Y bearing holders and the ends where the rods attach. With a larger bearing the center lines will be at a different location but as long as they line up between the bearing holders and the ends you'll be good to go. In the Blender files Serge has an 8 mm version but I've only look at it but not used it or generated STLs. Inby vegasloki - Smart_Rap
How are you downloading the files? Using the save as right click from Github in Windows doesn't work, IIRC it's to do with the formatting of the line breaks. Best bet is to download the zip, unpack it and open from there. The Prusa3ALU-FREZOVANY-v4.dxf from an unpacked zip will open as a dxf. There is some clean up you need to do with it to be able to load it into a CAM but you can measure itby vegasloki - General Mendel Topics
Quotecarl67lp Thanks, vegasloki -- this is exactly the information I needed. Indeed, I actually had your frame on my eBay watch list. That said, I don't see a rod kit in your eBay store that has the longer upper rear cross rod; all of them seem to have four cross rods of equal length. Am I missing something? I don't have a separate listing though putting one up is a good idea, thanks!. Getby vegasloki - General Mendel Topics
Which Github did you use and what doesn't work about it? I've cut several hundred with this fileby vegasloki - General Mendel Topics