QuoteDjDemonD QuoteMKSA You should do a post mortem on these boards. The protection may not be sufficient. Piezo can produce very high voltage spike. We are very aware of that, and so far have had a very low failure rate something in the order of 3 boards out of 300, which given that the design has been constantly evolving and they are presently handmade, is lower than I would have expected. Iby MKSA - General
You should do a post mortem on these boards. The protection may not be sufficient. Piezo can produce very high voltage spike.by MKSA - General
Note I mainly print PETG and there is no way that 130°C will soften enough the plastic to allow the nozzle to clear it and reach the Z home. As to trigger below 10g, even with the nozzle at the working T° same issue plus false triggering is more likely. I stick to my procedure. Simple and works well for me (For the Z home, I don't use auto bed leveling as it is not necessary with my heavily modiby MKSA - General
Although I don't use a piezo, here is how I proceed: I don't like the idea of touching the nozzle with any kind of cutter/scrapper specially with PETG that ends up covering totally the nozzle.by MKSA - General
QuoteJonathanThompson QuoteMKSA QuoteBlackgnome Got plenty of steppers/leadscrews/pullys/belts and probe solutions laying around, building a corexy just for fun and to try out diffrent solutions atm and this just got me thinking that 2 should give some extra torque for those Heavy lifting/holding jobbs So it is possible and should not be a problem, will try this to see how it goes. Worst case Iby MKSA - Mechanics
The vast majority of these 3D printers are made (designed is not a proper term) without any consideration for proper constrain, alignment, rigidity ... and of course (a result in fact) thermal expansion. Luckily, the way the guides are usually mounted is flexible (tie wrap) and the frame itself is flexible too, therefore binding is usually limited. In your case, either it is worse than averageby MKSA - CoreXY Machines
Quoteleadinglights Thank you ohfurryone, Perhaps I can stress the point with a "whatif". You make drinks and sandwiches for some guests but somebody else picks them up and gives them to the guests claiming that they made them. A story both trite and banal, but if it happens to you I suspect you would be annoyed. .... Mike That rings a bell ! It is called "socialism", despicable indeed !by MKSA - General
Obviously not a piezo sensor as described in this forum, just a pressure switch and not suitable to use as is as a real effective Z home switch or probe. Cumbersome. Not much detail from the chinglish description but if made properly eventually with FSR could be useful.by MKSA - General
PETG indeed keeps oozing, is sticky, direct extruder is the way to go and in fact no need for Bowden when you make the carriage plus extruder lightweight (I am down to 250g). You could shed some weight by making a new carriage instead of this steel bracket. A shorter motor eventually.by MKSA - CoreXY Machines
QuoteBlackgnome Got plenty of steppers/leadscrews/pullys/belts and probe solutions laying around, building a corexy just for fun and to try out diffrent solutions atm and this just got me thinking that 2 should give some extra torque for those Heavy lifting/holding jobbs So it is possible and should not be a problem, will try this to see how it goes. Worst case I´ll just use the good old 1 motoby MKSA - Mechanics
Just a spoon is needed to assemble it !by MKSA - Prusa i3 and variants
The Anets are junks and this copy is obviously a piece of junk too. The majority of these cheap printers are not worth it but for a very few that can be improved because they have a metallic frame. Not the case here. Send it back or resell it to someone you don't like.by MKSA - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteleadinglights QuoteMKSA So you drafted this "bell" that looks like a copy of a real one DESIGNED, MADE according to certain rules by experienced craftsmen, artists who copied the original idea of a guy who invented the first one and you cry because yours was copied ? Gee ! On the other hand, I see a piezo sensor that looks familiar, who copied whom ? No, For the umpteenth repeat, I am pleby MKSA - General
QuoteDancer QuoteDjDemonD ...., and for stationary beds the result is optimal. Yes indeed. I have two deltas - both with under bed sensors - not even mounted - just loosely put on top of the piezos (see my earlier posts). Since I have the piezos I NEVER ever had to worry about Calibration anymore. It simply works. Before the piezos, every evening I had to tinker arround with the bed height to gby MKSA - General
Looks to me that the full up force is applied to the piezo disk center, the disk being held in place by its periphery. Do you limit the travel to a few 1/10 to avoid forcing on the disk and breaking the ceramic ? Can you confirm the 4 assembly screws act also as guide ? I see the two main parts are not against each other. DC42 strain gauge system is set to trigger in the 100g range, yours in thby MKSA - General
So you drafted this "bell" that looks like a copy of a real one DESIGNED, MADE according to certain rules by experienced craftsmen, artists who copied the original idea of a guy who invented the first one and you cry because yours was copied ? Gee ! On the other hand, I see a piezo sensor that looks familiar, who copied whom ?by MKSA - General
QuoteDjDemonD Hi I apologise my lack of punctuation as I am dictating this message for electronically The system compares almost identical to the duet 3D Smart effector system in terms of accuracy and repeatability. In terms of issues with the nozzle our advice is to flip any residual filament with a wire cutter or similar instruments before printing and then to heat the nozzle to 130° C before pby MKSA - General
How does this compare to the strain gauge system devised by DC42 ? How is the piezo disc protected from breaking in case of head crashing, hitting the bed or melted filament blobs, any obstruction .... How do you clean the nozzle to avoid Z H error due to the residue sticking to the tip ? Note here, what I do is to park the nozzle against a sheet of paper or PTFE when a print is completed in ordby MKSA - General
QuoteStephenM I think the way forward for multi-extrusion is via a tool changer. I am working on a design for independent tool heads. Each one would have it's own "umbilical cord" for wiring, reverse bowden, flex/nimble style remote extruder drive, and possibly water cooling lines and Berd-Air cooling (as chamber will likely be heated). Corexy gantry "cart" would simply pick whichever head is seby MKSA - Mechanics
Provided the extruder is on the carriage, the issue is not with the extruder pulling the filament, but fast movement of the carriage that has to pull it violently. It is the whole mass of the spool that has to rotate, not really the friction of its bearings causing problem. So the filament path must be as natural as possible with no or minimum changes of direction, no filament guide if possible oby MKSA - Mechanics
QuotePurpleSensation ... The article needs some points to develop, but I'm lazy and I receive no retribution for this so I'll take it easy. Kisses Same for me Besides, to "share" good ideas when in return you only get magnificent "spool holder" and magic "anti wobble system" is a bit unfair. Not to mention the technical level on Thingiverse is very low.by MKSA - Delta Machines
Interesting. Some time ago I modified my X Geetech Prusa X carriage to allow print head movement upward for two purposes, avoid crashing when coming across PETG blobs and set the Z Home by opening a contact. It works pretty well. I don't use a microswith, not fit for the job. I made my own system that requires a minute head movement. I looked at how Renishaw probes work I don't use springs but mby MKSA - Delta Machines
8 bit, 12V, 16 bit 24 V !by MKSA - CoreXY Machines
QuoteVigilant cool, I'm surprise nobody has ever tried all linear rail ultimaker before. Makes me want to try. May be because professionals know it brings nothing for this kind of machine. Just the picture above shows it. The whole set up must weight like a dead donkey and brings nothing. All the other guides are round shafts, no ?by MKSA - CoreXY Machines
I have Delrin and PTFE in round bar, flat and sheet. It is why I prefer Igus . Igus filament is not cheap but you can make a lot of various bearings and lead screw nuts that fits perfectly ! Igus can run on anodized Al and some carbon fiber profile. A definite plus.by MKSA - Delta Machines
QuoteVido Hi guys, recently I came across this video it shows how to mesure delta z hight with micrometer and with help of OpenDACT adjust accuracy of delta printer within 0.015mm to print bed.It only works with repetier (for now). I started issue on Marlin github page and also ther is some progress on OpenDACT gut hub page to make it work with any Delta 3d printer My Mitutoyo digital calipeby MKSA - Delta Machines
Quality linear guides are a waste of money for such machine of regular size. It is an absurdity if they are mounted on crappy flexible frames like the majority I see. Funny but it seems to work because the flexible frame compensate for the poor alignment ! The cheap chinese ones will give better results than the cheap round rods even if they are mounted as badly. BUT, a good design well made usinby MKSA - CoreXY Machines
Quotelars.arvidson I have decided to try a mount with a bearing above the coupler to stabilize the leadscrew a bit. Having the stepper on top and the leadscrew “hang” down would have been better than have the stepper in its current configuration (fixed at the bottom and floating at the top) but as I want to keep it out of the enclosure that is not possible. The long leadscrew might bend a bit undby MKSA - CoreXY Machines
Anyway, "wobble" is mostly erratic and the result of a poor design/build. It is not that difficult to eliminate or at least bring it to an acceptable level.by MKSA - CoreXY Machines
Quoteandornot The lead screw is fixed Not what you wrote earlier : "The 3 z screws are located in bearings top and bottom (not clear on the picture), allowing the linear screw to rotate, ". As Schopenhauer wrote: "The worst moment in an argument is when you realize you are wrong !" Anyway, it was fun.by MKSA - CoreXY Machines