QuoteMKSA I made a heatbreak drilled to 1.8mm instead of 2 but often experienced blocking due to retraction and gave up. A M6 M1.75 adapter ?, you will need to make one. M1.7 taps break easily Thanks for the tip. I assume 1.8mm in the nozzle should be OK, because filament will melt on contact. Indeed, I was not aware how small the airbrush nozzles are. The adapter would have to have an externalby lukie80 - Mechanics
Thanks for your information. I have nozzles with a M6 thread (e3d, ultimaker) so I'll have to find an M6 to M1.7 adapter with an inner diameter of 1.8mm or get the whole marlin hotend and adapt my extruder around it..by lukie80 - Mechanics
I like to print with a nozzle (M6 threaded) with an output diameter of 0.3mm. All the nozzles I have, have an input diameter of 2.00mm. Some manufacturers or sellers have full specifications (CAD) and state 2.0mm for the input diameter while most other manufacturers or sellers just state the thread and the output diameter without any CAD drawing. Do you know a manufacturer or seller, who offersby lukie80 - Mechanics
After digging into the code of Marlin as a beginner, I assume that Marlin just waits to fill the command buffer to be able to calculate the acceleration profiles. This requires at least 3 position commands in the buffer, but I assume Marlin accumulates 6 commands to reduce the risk of emptying the buffer.by lukie80 - Firmware - Marlin
Yes. Hold something really heavy and pull it towards you. Your body will move forward. Your body are the Z Rods and the carriage is the heavy object. But I overestimated the effect, I forgot the mass of the X-Motor. So the bending will be much less.by lukie80 - Mechanics
Quotedeckingman Quotelukie80 ................ Accelerating or decelerating causes force being applied on the guiding rods which in turn bend and relax.............. Huh???? How does accelerating a mass travelling parallel to the guides rods apply a force to those rods? I mean that movement on the X-Axis of a Prusa printer bends the smooth rods of the Z-axis.by lukie80 - Mechanics
Hmm. It could reduce ripple a bit. Accelerating or decelerating causes force being applied on the guiding rods which in turn bend and relax. An acceleration of 1000mm/s^2 and a 0.5kg carriage causes 0.5N of Force which results in a deflection of 60µm at the center of two 8mm 40cm steel rods, according to online calculators.by lukie80 - Mechanics
Quotebrunobasto Hey @lukie80, keep us posted on your progress. It's looking beautiful. Do you have pictures of your results and printer? Maybe a video? Thanks. And thanks to VDX for his idea, publishing and support. So far I only removed the RC paint using nitro diluent. It looks OK although I seem to have some backlash issues. . Next step will be drilling which will show if my PCB alignment wby lukie80 - Laser Cutter Working Group
QuoteJuculianD Hallo, ich hatte auch die Idee mit dem Step-Up converter und möchte meine TMC's damit betreiben. Was hat es mit dem Elko auf sich? Wofür brauche ich den und wie soll ich ihn einlöten? Einfach parallel, Polung egal? Ich habe leider keine Ahnung Also die Elektrolytkondensatoren sind standardmäßig auf jedem RAMPS-Board (und Derivaten) vorhanden, ist also alles OK. Es ging darum, dasby lukie80 - Elektrik & Elektronik
Thanks a lot for this valuable information! Indeed I reduced the spot size first by using a second lens very close to the PCB because I did not want to change the spot distance adjusted by my first lens (60mm). It helped a lot. I use 4 outlines spaced by 50µm. After brushing with soap and water I also had to use a cloth soaked with gasoline to remove the burned RC paint. I have to use some presby lukie80 - Laser Cutter Working Group
I'm still having problems finding the right paint. So far I've tried: Partial ablation: "Toom: Universal spray laqueur" Very bad ablation: "RC Car Colours: Racing paint for polycabonate body's" No ablation: "Edding 405 pen" However, the burned paint can be removed by mechanical means by using an acrylic piece of cloth and a lot of force or by using baking soda as mechanical peeling but this taby lukie80 - Laser Cutter Working Group
Thanks for the valuable info. Residual polymer-carrier, ok. I just ordered some black RC paint... and remembered afterwards that permanent markers were used for masking too. Did you try the Edding Spray?by lukie80 - Laser Cutter Working Group
Quotelukier [...] The biggest issue I have is with the paint. I've tried a few, from the cheapest black spray paint (1 GBP at one pound store) to high temperature oven & exhaust paint, to line marking paint (fast drying but ugly drying with bubbles etc) to painting a PCB with a wide tip black marker. Pretty much every time the laser doesn't go all the way through the paint leaving a thin layeby lukie80 - Laser Cutter Working Group
QuoteDemos ... Jetzt werde ich mir erstmal die Karten legen müssen ob ich neue Stepper kaufe die vielleicht nicht fiepen oder ein neues Netzteil und kompatiblen Controller mit 24V. Oder die Pins der TMC2100 für Vmot nicht ins RAMPS sondern nach oben führen und mit einem DC-DC Wandler (Ebay ~10€ ) versorgen. Aber dabei nicht vergessen 100µF Kondensatoren zwischen Vmot und GND zu löten, sonst sterbby lukie80 - Elektrik & Elektronik
Does somebody know how the quality, reliability and effort of this laser burning method compares to the toner transfer method? Is burning away the paint more reliable than fixating the toner to the copper? Thanks.by lukie80 - Laser Cutter Working Group
Thanks for your reply. The strange thing is: Steps are not skipped if I operate the drivers manually via the STP pin on the drivers. All the 16 microsteps work quite well: No steps are skipped, they are only not completely equally spaced. I forgot to mention that steps are not skipped if Marlin gets an single(!) order to move from A to B. However hysteresis still remains. I tried Repetier firmwaby lukie80 - Firmware - Marlin
There is a possibility that Marlin introduces backlash and skipped steps. Because my printed parts suffer from backlash (oval circles) and ripples (skipped steps which catch up later) I investigated the movement of my printer. I attached a long pen to the axis of my X-motor to be able to clearly see all microsteps and removed the belt to have no load. Then I ran which rotates the motor by oneby lukie80 - Firmware - Marlin
Bei RAMPS boards und Derivaten muss man nichts überbrücken oder abknipsen. Anstatt abzuknipsen reicht es die 3 Jumper wegzulassen und die Brücke wird vom Pulldown-Widerstand auf dem RAMPS board erledigt.by lukie80 - Elektrik & Elektronik
Ja genau. Wegen dem 100k pulldown zu GND braucht man die Brücke eigentlich nicht. VCC ist die +5V Leitung (für die Logikbausteine). Beim Arduino gibt es noch VIN, das ist die 12V Spannung die das RAMPS an das Arduino gibt. Dann gibt es noch beim Arduino USBVCC, das ist die +5V Spannung vom USB-Port und +3.3V die vom Spannungsregler (IC6, unten) produziert wird welcher selbst von +5V versorgt wiby lukie80 - Elektrik & Elektronik
Ich weiß nicht ob es für den Fehler relevant ist: Das RAMPS hat keinen Vorwiderstand zwischen den 3 CFG Pins und +5V. Wenn die Pins per Jumper geschlossen sind UND die Drahtbrücke gelötet ist, dann hat man einen Kurzschluss der +5V Leitung [1,2]. A ) Wenn zu diesem Zeitpunkt per 12V (also per RAMPS ) versorgt wird, dann fängt der Spannungsregler vom Arduino-Board den Kurzschluss ab und schaltet sby lukie80 - Elektrik & Elektronik
Noch was zu GND bei der Vref Messung. Falls man ein deutlich höheres Vref misst zu GND am Netzteil als zu GND direkt auf dem TMC2100, dann gibt es in der Leitung irgendwo einen Widerstand der nicht sein soll. Das könnte auch der 12V 4-Pol Stecker sein, der keinen guten Kontakt hat und zu heiß wird.by lukie80 - Elektrik & Elektronik
Thank you for this great and useful app. I use it for print job control if my PC is off. To access Octoprint on my OctoPi installation from outside the local network I have set-up ddclient on the pi (/etc/ddclient.conf: use=web, web=my.ip.fi/) and activated port forwarding on my router for port 80. Sometimes it took a minute to connect (Slow dynamic DNS service?), so don't give up.by lukie80 - Experimental
Thank you very much for the detailed workflow NormandC! I am always happy if people provide STEP or now SCAD files because minor customizations for own needs are often required.by lukie80 - General
Ja, 1.5V entsprechen 1.5A maximal. Es wird irgendwo empfohlen nur 70-80% des Maximalstroms des Motors einzustellen. Ja die Treiber werden sauheiss. Also Kühler sind Pflicht und ein Lüfter wäre auch zu empfehlen. Wenn die Treiber zu heiss werden schalten sie sich ab bis sie wieder kälter sind. Also wenn der Drucker mittendrin stoppt, dann weißt du warum.by lukie80 - Elektrik & Elektronik
QuoteNikNolte Quotelukie80 Ich habe meine im Betrieb eingestellt und es hat nicht geschadet. Also rumdrehen, messen, rumdrehen usw.. Auf welchen Wert hattest du die eingestellt ...?? Wenn ich mich recht entsinne gilt: Vref = Imax Meine Motoren vertragen 1.5A Geeetech stepper motor und ich habe 1.2V eingestellt. Schau nach was deine Motoren können.by lukie80 - Elektrik & Elektronik
Ich habe meine im Betrieb eingestellt und es hat nicht geschadet. Also rumdrehen, messen, rumdrehen usw..by lukie80 - Elektrik & Elektronik
GND kannst du natürlich auch am Treiber in der Ecke abgreifen, wie auf deinem Foto zu erkennen.by lukie80 - Elektrik & Elektronik
Die Treiber sind Traumhaft leise. Werden zwar sehr heiss (>70°C, passiv, 9mm x 9mm x 6mm Kühler) aber ich hatte noch keine verlorenen Steps. Allerdings war es in meinem Fall Pflicht sie mit 24V zu betreiben, da sie mit 12V sehr laut bei etwa 9-10KHz zwitschern egal ob im Stillstand oder beim Drucken. Ab 20V werden sie leise. Zum Glück habe ich ein Board (GT2560) auf dem man die Leitung nur(!by lukie80 - Elektrik & Elektronik
I found a solution! But first I forgot to mention that the problem occurs after approximately 1mm of 1.75mm filament (50mm of print distance) and stops after approximately 3mm of filament (150mm print distance) so it does not occur on small parts. And second, using a sharpened nozzle (no flat area at the tip) did not help at all. So the nozzle lift theory was partially nonsense. The ideal solutby lukie80 - Printing
QuoteJamesK This link has chapter and verse: [...] It works because it increases impedance of the motor which reduces current build-up. I think the explanation provided in the link is not correct. The driver does a closed-loop control scheme but not a common mean-current-PWM. To hold a specific step current the driver applies the full voltage to the motor, waits a blanking time, checks the curby lukie80 - Printing