It's a very old release of Marlin, 1.02. It is set to home at minimum positions of x, y and z. But all the motors are set to reverse (configuration.h). Perhaps you have the motors connected backwards and min and max endstops mixed up? You don't autocalibrate every print. Do it once, store the settings, should be good for a few prints at least. Better to try setting the print head in mid positby DragonFire - General
A4988 come with a little current adjuster. It's usually set to minimal, has to be turned up if the motor is under load. What can fry drivers is plugging them in the wrong way around.by DragonFire - General
Depends on the slicing software. It looks to me that slic3r has issues with the shapes being run into the base, it definitely would have voids in the bottom of those areas when printed. I guess your software is having a similar issue - you wouldn't notice from a 3d render of the outside surface. You would have to go inside the model to notice them. You might want to try just a 0.4mm layer andby DragonFire - General
As supplied, the firmware has non A4988 XYZ drivers and a heated bed. It's not too hard to change this. It's also for pulley or linear versions, if you have a Linear Plus the radius and rod lengths etc will need changing to Plus sizes. But it worked. For me.by DragonFire - Delta Machines
Wow, just tried with 0.3 mm layer height and got weirdness 3.20 and up with hollow voids with solid layers above and below. 100% infill. This model is not a single outer skin, it contains void surfaces inside for some reason. The two problem areas are the large tall circle and the two Roman circus shaped thingies. If I used the fix option on slic3r, the large circle weird odd hollow areas wheby DragonFire - General
I did try using slic3r doing 0.2 mm slices and 20% infill. No bridge generated over that area. The gcode did contain a rather odd "Hollowish" few layers from 1.4 mm to 1.8mm. The area contained by your rogue bridge wasn't really small big enoug for much in the way of infill. 2mm also contains these outlines. From 3.20mm up it all looks consistent. But i wouldn't trust it to print very well witby DragonFire - General
A messed up bed can be improved by putting a flat glass layer on top. The tricky part is clamping it on securely. And being able to unsecure it. This is where a moving bed makes things easier to tweak, if you can adjust the level of the corners and moving edges. Am loving having autocalibrate. But have printed without it. Just more trial and error.by DragonFire - General
I would start by looking at what is already supported in configuration.h file in terms of controllers;- Does it have an encoder as well as display? That would explain why it's got 7 pins.by DragonFire - General
In theory you could coat a glass surface with it, by slowly raising the temperature to above the glass transition point (217 Centigrade according to Wikipedia). For a few hours. And then slowly letting the glass cool down again. It would not be that easy to get a consistently thick layer, but you could maybe get good enough for printing on (plus or minus 0.05 mm). If not, you would probably haveby DragonFire - General
What firmware are you running? That is the most likely cause. EDIT: Perhaps you have set a minimum layer time on printing, so that the printer slows down when it is not printing much on a layer?by DragonFire - General
E3D don't seem that fussed about clones. Even to the extent of publishing engineering drawings. Just so long as it's sold as an E3D and not having the design sold with a different name. The thing with clones is the quality control is iffy. You don't know distant it is from published specification.by DragonFire - General
So verhält sich Marlin normalerweise. Es wird nicht versucht, das Hotend abzukühlen, bis es die Arbeitstemperatur erreicht hat. (Und es macht keinen großen Unterschied, wenn Sie den Lüfter nur dauerhaft anschließen, obwohl dies ein wenig Strom verschwendet, wenn die Heizung versucht, sich beim Abkühlen des Lüfters zu erwärmen.) Die Steuerung ist hilfreich, wenn die Steuerung auch die Teilekühby DragonFire - General
Vielleicht haben Sie das Hotend eher mit E2 (dritter Extruder) als mit E0 (erster Extruder?) Verdrahtet. Vielleicht haben Sie auch das beheizte Bett so verdrahtet, dass das beheizte Bett in die Platine gelangt und nicht aus der Platine herauskommt. Diese sind NICHT die gleichen wie Rampen verdrahtet. Konsultieren Sie das Diagramm im ersten Link, den ich gepostet habe. Die Firmware kümmert sicby DragonFire - General
Ich bin nicht mit Megatronic_3 vertraut, aber es scheint funktional identisch mit einem Arduino 2560 mit einer Ramps 1,4-Karte zu sein. Jede Firmware, die mit Arduino Mega 2560 und Ramps 1.4 funktioniert, sollte funktionieren. Ich schlage vor, Sie beginnen mit Marlin 1.1.9, um sich mit der Bedienung vertraut zu machen, und aktualisieren dann auf etwas schnelleres. Möglicherweise müssen Sie diby DragonFire - General
I peeked at the config.h in Marlin 1.1.9 for the TronXY s5 (in example confguration folder)I got;- Quote //#define DISTINCT_E_FACTORS /** * Default Axis Steps Per Unit (steps/mm) * Override with M92 * X, Y, Z, E0 [, E1[, E2[, E3[, E4]]]] */ #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 80, 80, 400, 90 } /** * Default Max Feed Rate (mm/s) * Override with M20by DragonFire - General
Depends on whether or not the PLA contains carbon fiber or "glow in the dark" additives. These are very abrasive, and damage the tiny hole the plastic is squeezed through (in less than roll 1KG roll printing quality will suffer). Apart from that, the PLA generally doesn't damage brass nozzles, although they can get clogged.by DragonFire - General
I do not know. But here a good place to look and ask if you can't find. (Marlin is written in Arduino C, unless you are running ARM powered controllers rather than Arduino powered controllers).by DragonFire - General
FDM, TronXY X5sa offers best volume and potentially highest printing speed. Although this probably limited by controller, extruder and motor drivers. Auto level sometimes bundled, usually not., There is now extra 20% VAT on orders from EU - payable on delivery (thanks to Brexit). Later Voron also I hear nice things about. Resin, you are looking at a Chinese kit. I have no experience at all witby DragonFire - General
Quotedc42 I'm glad you got it working.. +1by DragonFire - General
OK, if you lower TEMP_HYSTERESIS from 3 to 2, then Marlin will react to a temperature difference of 2 degrees rather than 3 degrees. It will try harder and react quicker. What you really want for part cooling is a double ended shroud that points at both sides of the printed part... not a fan that blows hard everywhere. You ever tried printing without part cooling? You get stronger parts, butby DragonFire - General
Not really independent, no. 2 X carriages moving on the same rails, maybe. I don't really understand it myself, but Im listing the bits of code (contain links) that might give you more information;- (from configuration.h in Marlin 2);- Quote /** * Two separate X-carriages with extruders that connect to a moving part * via a solenoid docking mechanism. Requires SOL1_PIN and SOL2_PIN. */ //#defby DragonFire - General
Do you have any fans pointing at the nozzle or heater block? That could also be a factor, as PID tries to warm the nozzle, the fan cools it down too much.by DragonFire - General
As an experiment, you could also try using the mosFET on the hotend, rather than the heated bed, to see if that makes a difference. One thing I'd try would be to reduce maximum current (BANG_MAX) delivered... it looks to me like your hot end always gets maximum power applied when it's too cool. Try a value of 191 instead of 255. (configuration.h file) Quote // Comment the following line to disaby DragonFire - General
Well, you've checked the board... only other thing I can think of checking would be the connection from the thermistor to the board. Check the wires are crimped to the pins solidly. If there was only a few strands doing the connection, that might affect connection at high temperature. A silicone sock on the heater block should help. That's the only other things I can think of. It does look likeby DragonFire - General
Laser cutting ally accurately takes an oxygen free atmosphere. Which isn't as cheap as water cutting.by DragonFire - General
What makes me suspect the mosFET in the controller that controls nozzle 1 heating - it's definitely staying on when it should be cooling down. Judging fro the second sceenshot you posted. And yes, I have had one fail and go runaway on me. EDIT:: One other thing to check - is the nozzle grounded somewhere to the 0V line? Check electrical resistance. It could be a short is bypassing the electroniby DragonFire - General
It's either got to be the heater cartridge or the electrical bits sending power to it. Which includes the connectors, they can work loose. If your controller supports 2 extruders, you could try wiring up to the 2nd extruder power and thermal sensor outputs and the extruder motor controller, set your Marlin to use the 2nd extruder temporarily, and try again to see if it makes a difference, if notby DragonFire - General
From what I understand, most kinds of thermal paste just dry out. The boron formulation usually steams a bit on first heating, that's normal. I don't think there are any permanent solutions, they all fall apart sooner or later. Only reason I'm kind of interested is I'm mulling modding a v5 cold end with an M7 tap and seeing if a real e3D titanium heatbreak will fit well enough. The tricky partby DragonFire - General
If it was me, I'd present this to the local health and safety killjoy and ask them what objections they had to it. Not a joke, direct link from the manufacturer (scroll down to the bottom of the page). Perhaps Arctic have an English language version of a hazardous safety document on one of their pyrolitic jobbies? It is RoHs compliant at least in English certified as non-hazardous material.by DragonFire - General
No telling really. It could have been a color additive. It could have been contaminated with ABS or other plastic. Pure PLA (clear, no color) can deform as well, although it tends to start well and delaminate further up. This is why people play around with heated beds and glue stick etc, to get good bed adhesion. And pay more for consistent filament.by DragonFire - General