I've concluded that I must have turned the pot too high to burn out the stepper controller like Polygonhell said. I swapped the ramps shield and power supply with the shield & power from my gen 1 printer (no D1), and it did the exact same thing. Plus, I checked ALL the stepper controllers (not just X) and sure enough, Y was just as hot as X. I checked in the firmware and found this sectionby krunchy - RAMPS Electronics
I'm running ramps 1.4 with two different sprinter versions. One is current as of a few days ago and the other is from last october, which is running on my other printer, also ramps 1.4. Both boards were pre-assembled. When idling, the x-axis stepper will emit a high pitched whine, and the controller for it gets very hot while idling. Y, Z, and E are completely silent. I thought nothing of thby krunchy - RAMPS Electronics
Is anyone else getting their posts blocked by the spamblocker? I've never had this problem before and I'm not using any funky keywords afaik...by krunchy - General
Now that I'm a few months into printing, what I found works best so far is wiping down a new layer of blue tape down with some rubbing alcohol. I can usually get about 8-10 prints off the same tape before it stops sticking... Sometimes I find that the adhesion is TOO good, and the tape will rip when I try to pry the object off, but even then, as long as I can lay it back down, it works just finby krunchy - Plastic Extruder Working Group
Great info, thank you both. The linked wiki is a bit empty, so I appreciate the help!by krunchy - Skeinforge
I'm trying to print the Elvis skull, but at .5 size... When I change the Z ratio, it doesn't seem to appropriately change the flowrate or carved layers, so the print head ends up contacting the extruded plastic. If I print something at x1.50 (including the z) the extrusion is wavy because it's dropping too far. If I leave the z at x1, I end up with a really tall skinny skull. Is there a way tby krunchy - Skeinforge
You nailed it, temperature was activated and it was configured to cool down after the first layer. I vaguely remember doing that (never drink & print I guess).by krunchy - Skeinforge
I don't have cool enabled, but for some reason everything I have been producing with Skeinforge for the past few days will trace the perimeter right after the bottom layer is done, but the extruder doesn't move. It doesn't mess anything up - it continues with its normal printing immediately after the lap around the track, and only does it that one time. It does this for everything now and I'm nby krunchy - Skeinforge
Awesome, I just came here to read up about why my bar clamps weren't getting filled around the curve. Thank you for following up on your own question.by krunchy - Skeinforge
It's all teeth. This is the (rehosted) pic from the eBay auction. I'm leaning towards printing a collar out of PLA and attaching that to the gear, but that doesn't seem to be how this was supposed to work. Drilling a hole doesn't seem like it would be strong enough to last very long. Plus, the screw would likely interfere with the gear function. Andrew Diehl Wrote: --------------------------by krunchy - Mechanics
I bought a Wade's extruder off eBay that is of very good quality, but the small gear is just the gear - there's no place for a set screw or anything.. How would I go about attaching that to my stepper without making it permanent?by krunchy - Mechanics
The guy that designed it says it like Russia.by krunchy - General Mendel Topics
I will give that a try. I had read somewhere that the nozzle should be 2-3 mm above the bed, but I guess that was wrong.by krunchy - Plastic Extruder Working Group
I'm trying to use Scotch #2090 blue tape with PLA, and the PLA refuses to stick. Why? I do not have a heated bed. Also, I get a constant stream ooze which does not stop even if I run the extruder in reverse (Wade). What would cause this?by krunchy - Plastic Extruder Working Group
Understood. I'm sure I'll be adjusting things once I get my hot end built, but at least I know it's closer than it was before.. Thanks again!by krunchy - Plastic Extruder Working Group
Scratch my last post, I'm back on Sprinter. I found the settings I needed to change and values they needed to be so it wouldn't extrude so quickly. I found the values in this post which mentions step per unit should be 25 and speed should be 2000. So in config.h, I changed line 24 from: float axis_steps_per_unit[] = {80, 80, 3200/1.25,700}; to: float axis_steps_per_unit[] = {80, 80, 3200/1.2by krunchy - Plastic Extruder Working Group
After a bunch of playing around, it turns out it was the firmware. I switched to Tonokip and everything is working fine (except for the 'home' commands). What firmware are you using? I'm going to give FiveD a try, I think that's the most up to date...? Thanks for all the help everyone!by krunchy - Plastic Extruder Working Group
The host software defaults to 3000mm/min, so I changed that to 300, but all that did was shorten the duration of the initial buzz and the amount of time the extruder gears spin on the subsequent attempts. It doesn't slow anything. Is there somewhere else I should be looking? I didn't see extrude speed or anything in the firmware or host software settings..by krunchy - Plastic Extruder Working Group
A video of the behavior I'm trying to describe. Can anyone tell me if this is normal behavior for an extruder motor? The first manual extrude command I send it after a cold boot causes the motor to vibrate and make a loud buzzing noize, but the gears don't move (except for an immediate clockwise turn). Every extrude command that follows, the gears move fine. 1) Is this normal? If so, why wby krunchy - Plastic Extruder Working Group
brupje Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Some people believe that it might damage the Arduino when doing this. How valid are these concerns? Should I just leave it powered by USB? The D1 only concerns the 5A side, so would I still be able to use the ATX power supply on the 11+A side for a heated bed or something if I don't install it?by krunchy - RAMPS Electronics
Hello All, I'm planning on using an old ATX power supply via the 2x2 connector. Based on this link (D2, D2 - Diodes), I believe I need to install D1. Can someone confirm this? I'm still waiting on parts, so to test my Arduino, I uploaded the "Blink" example. It works fine when powered from USB, but if I use the ATX power supply, nothing happens. I don't currently have D1 connected, is thisby krunchy - RAMPS Electronics