I did like you, cut out some 10mm diameter hole. Nice they fixed it, I guess I'll have to buy some new ones now :-) must just use up the one I have, doesn't seems like there is much wear and tear on it.by Ludvig - Printing
Quoteorbitalair Thats not elephants foot, you are overcooking the bottom layers. Ditch the painters tape. Laydown a layer of gluestick. Recalibrate your nozzle height for no heat. Test. I doubt you really need any heat with PLA (I dont use any), but set it to 30C max for pla. The unevenness could also be occurring because of too much retraction, for a all metal E3Dv6, try 1.5-2mm retract, noby Ludvig - Printing
I printed the "Benchy" boat, went okay but the bottom squashes out the "CT3D.xyz" text, tried a tenth of a millimetre higher Z level -> printed in air. Tried a slightly lower extrusion (1.03 -> 0.98) and the print is slightly better (maybe) but the first layer is clearly better. Tried a flat swuade, really better too! I'll continue trying and tweaking! When there is more or less to printby Ludvig - Printing
Thank you for your help! The bed is clean (changed blue-tape), I don't think there is over extrusion (no elephant foot, all other layers okay, I tried lowering extrusion settings but got underextrusion problems). On the first layer, if I don't use excessive heat and so, and the lines are longer than around 20mm, they'll unstick from the bed and warp up. This is the actual problem so I tried hiby Ludvig - Printing
I recently changed filament (1,75mm white, black eSun to light blue eSun, same seller) and for starters it worked perfectly well, but quickly I got some problems with my first layer. I tried a second filament (eSun again "gold" ('dark yellow'), same seller) same problem. The problem is it's like droplets are forming on the surface, I guess the printed line warps, but as you can see, the rest isby Ludvig - Printing
Thanks, but it was the move-after-G29 that I hadn't changed in the slicer when I changed microsteppings... Also, 4mm / second isn't that fast right? anyway it tried to move 16 times too fast! Fixed now :-)by Ludvig - Firmware - Marlin
Hi all! I have a scratch CoreXY which starts to work okay :-) but my bed isn't perfectly levelled so I tried out AUTO_BED_LEVELING_3POINT. This works well for what I can tell but there is one problem. In Repetier, I load up, slice etc and start print, so at start, this happens automatically: 1) Homing x,y,z 2) probing 3 points on the bed. 3) When this finalizes, the hotend is say 15mm over theby Ludvig - Firmware - Marlin
Hey thanks! I actually have exactly that fan in the thingiverse picture (Noctua 40x40)! It does 5.88cfm IIRC but I guess it's hampered by my ugly attachment, this one looks much better. I put back the original fan I got with the E3D (I bought a clone first but I broke the heat break and couldn't get it back up and running without problems so I bought a "real" one) and it came with a silicon sockby Ludvig - Firmware - Marlin
Hi all! I have had some breakdowns (heat-creep most probably) in my E3D v6 bowden, and it's probably one or several of these reasons: too much retraction, too slow print, old filament and bad cooling of the heat-sink (my bad design and a very low noise fan). So as I'm waiting for some new filament, I thought it would be nice to monitor the heat break temperature (or close to it, like on the firsby Ludvig - Firmware - Marlin
Ehrm... my mistake here, I saw travel speed 3000 and thought motors maxed out at say 50, but funnily Repetier has mm/s in the eeprom settings but in travel speed, it's mm/minute... Learned one or two things on the road but sorry for the inconvenience. Cheers and thanks!by Ludvig - General
@dc42, I have eeprom enabled and the M503 spit out these, for me, seemingly normal values, right? 20:02:45.893 : echo: Steps per unit: 20:02:45.898 : echo: M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z400.00 E87.04 20:02:45.902 : echo:Maximum feedrates (mm/s): 20:02:45.906 : echo: M203 X120.00 Y120.00 Z120.00 E320.00 20:02:45.910 : echo:Maximum Acceleration (mm/s2): 20:02:45.910 : echo: M201 X400 Y400 Z2000 E1000 20:0by Ludvig - General
@work but will check @home I have eeprom enabled so I configure that in Repetier and anything higher than ~40-50mm/s just doesn't change anything. For what I have understood, when eeprom is enabled, Only Repetier (thus eeprom) configuration values count. I have changed the values in Marlin to no avail / no changes at all.by Ludvig - General
Okay, I got my head around it and here is what I figured: (BTW, recent Marlin firmware) Motors: 200 steps/revolution with 16 microsteps (so 3200 virtual steps) Pulley GT2 20 teeths Belt: 2mm / step(between 2 teeths) So, 1 revolution equals 40mm And my step/mm would be 3200/40 = 80 microsteps/mm And at 50mm/s (which seems to be my maximum) that would be (1.25 rev/sec * 3200 step/rev or 50 mm/sby Ludvig - General
I sifted through the Marlin firmware yesterday (is it only I who have all the files blocked in 'open' mode in the IDE and locked in place?), I found some variable about manual moving speed but changing it didn't do anything. I also made some more tests, I guess it doesn't really matter but it's more like 40mm/s than 50mm/s... Maybe microsteppings makes it so it can't go any faster with my setupby Ludvig - General
Thanks, and yes, it seems as it's the maximum speed change Between two timesteps, so it's still wrong IMO (could be say "delta mm/s") but well, everyone is doing it this way so :-)by Ludvig - General
A google search for NK-8 hotend shows me exactly the same Chinese knock off I had (not saying you have one ) and the middle of the heat break was thin like an aluminium soda cans walls thickness, so I also broke it. I ordered a bunch of (cheap) steel breakers (I don't think you can break them with normal handling), but I just got a lot of jams so I bought a E3D hotend, and I did something arounby Ludvig - General
Hi All! I set out to build a CoreXY printer 2 years ago, 1 happy move to another city, new job, school for kids, rust because of storage when searching for an apartment etc. etc. etc. I finally got it together! After some initial hurdles, it works way over my expectations, so I'm entering the improvement/refinement phase. So that's why I'm here :-) I had the printer set up on a cheap IKEA tablby Ludvig - General
Hi VDX, I found the/a page about Reprap 'vitamins', is there another one for its 'experience' or is that intended to be just experience :-) ? Also interested about your modifications, would you care to share some?by Ludvig - Mechanics
Thanks for the long and detailed answers! So if you have a modest printer you'll need more skill :-) Interesting to know skill is an important part though, my printer won't be hi quality, at least not from starters... Lots of info there, thanks Mr dentist, It comforts me in my choices too, and gives me a road to upgrades / fixes I'll would make later on.by Ludvig - Mechanics
Hi everybody! Short story, I wanted to buy a cheap printer and was told (several times) that it's just not a good idea. Save up or build your own was the leitmotif. As I'm in Europe and printers here are kind of more expensive than in the states, I decided to roll my own. So I have searched and read a lot, thought this and that and made my decisions. It's very similar to the Smartrapcore (X-Y onby Ludvig - Mechanics
So how did it went?by Ludvig - Mechanics
Is it just me seing the "air bubble" that must have been in the shaft? Like a (kind of big) half moon on the inside, right side, of the broken shaft?by Ludvig - Mechanics