Well figured out a deal and paid it with Paypal for a little protection if I need to get my money back or something, but got it for 50 bucks and going to pick it up Monday after work. Its been snowing so had to delay the pickup a bit, but excited to get started. I did some asking around and found a metal shop that I can get the smooth rods, Leadscrews, and aluminum plate made. Not sure if anyoby AquaticsLive - Reprappers
I went with multiple power supplies for my last build too, was nice to be able to power the different pieces with multiple different voltages. I used these Tinkerkit Mosfet controllers for the heaters. Keeps the high current heaters off the control board and I power the heated bed with a higher voltage to speed up the time it takes to heat up and draws less power. LINK to Mosfet Moduleby AquaticsLive - Reprappers
So the power jack versus barrel jack same thing. Its the power plug on the side of the board. 7-12VDC max. Link to picture of all the pins This is just my opinion and having much caution. The Real brand name Arduino is suppose to filter it so that extra power can not backfeed into the USB cable and cause issues with you computer. I bought a cheaper version of the board so using that power jby AquaticsLive - Reprappers
I received one that was messed up too, I just removed the diode to be safe and ran 5v to the Servo plug, was the safest way for me since I had some RC servo wires and the power pin is in the middle so can't screw up and burn anything up if you plug it in backwards. I did this because I was planning to run more than 12VDC to the power plugs. I am using 14VDC not crazy high, but more than whatby AquaticsLive - Reprappers
This is the cabinet I hoping to get, I have contacted them, but can't make it to them until this weekend and they may sell before then. $50 is pretty cheap for a $1500 cabinet.by AquaticsLive - Reprappers
Thanks yes, that puts some new thought to the project. Currently looking at a much larger cabinet (32"X32"X48") on wheels, thermostat controlled fans on the top (I will have to adjust the temp setting for these or put a toggle on them to disable for printing ABS), and has full power rail for 50.00. There is also another one with a battery bank UPS in the bottom for 75.00 not sure I would wantby AquaticsLive - Reprappers
I have been looking around at Rack Mounts Enclosures for servers to build my next printer inside of. Has anyone tried this yet, been looking around for ideas. Here is one on Ebay, but really just going to ask around to see if I can find a free used one or cheap on Craigslist. I got one a few years ago free, they had bunch of them for free, now I wish I would have grabbed one more. Ebay Linkby AquaticsLive - Reprappers
Love the Steampunk look, but not sure about the X and Y motor system. Normally that syle they have the the head driven by one of the belts. I will keep an eye out, I want to see what the printhead carriage looks like.by AquaticsLive - Reprappers
I had it happen once and found that my heater block was not tight enough letting filament leak out and bubbles which make little brown spots in the print, so just cleaned and tightened it up and all was well.by AquaticsLive - Reprappers
For the 3d printer hobby as any other hobby goes know when to turn it off and put a cover on it for awhile.by AquaticsLive - Reprappers
Thanks I may give TPU a try, also I have found by looking around that the 3mm flexible filament feeds allot better than 1.75, so just switching to the 3mm sounds look a good idea too.by AquaticsLive - Reprappers
Just wanted to share some little things I do when using my cheap ebay E3D nozzles and then some for Ninja Flex adjustments. Here is the Nozzle LINK I have to say it works great as is for issues with it jamming, they always just print. I do service it on a good routine, I heat it up and pull out the filament. Then let it cool and unscrew the brass tip, clean it up and reinstall. I have notiby AquaticsLive - Reprappers
Remeber your nozzle has to be fully up to temp at least above 180 for the extruder motor to turn on. I am sure you checked that, but has caused me grief way to many times to admit. Thermo resister popped out while I was working on the nozzle and had not noticed it.by AquaticsLive - Printing
Good Luck, little more tweaking left. Well that never ends lol, I am always tinkering.by AquaticsLive - Reprappers
So slicers, there are ton of them out there, and I don't want to cause a war in here lol. Anyhow so here is my opinion, choose the one dpending on the job. I started in Silc3r and Repetier. Pretty good for all around things. When you start printing objects that need support, then I moved to another slicer MatterControl, because the support it does has more settings to make it remove easier.by AquaticsLive - Reprappers
What Slicer are you using? Either case, I have found if you edit your nozzle diameter setting or default extrusion width depending on the software your using, can fix some issues. Really for me ends up being what I am printing and doing a little math. So lets say the wall width is 2mm and you have your perimeters extrusion width in the Gcode is says .4mm (this info is in the top section of Gcoby AquaticsLive - Reprappers
I can help with the centering issue, there is an Section in the slicer settings called output options called "Center on Bed". Just deselect that and then on the view screen you can move the part anywhere you want it and save.by AquaticsLive - Reprappers
Cool sounds like your getting it close. The entry side of the extruder, they must have not drilled it out after. I am not sure, but I have heard that your suppose to print the I3 parts hotter than normal with ABS to make the prints more solid, problem with that is it tends to make all the holes too small. I would suggest taking the thing apart removing drive pulley and just making sure the fby AquaticsLive - Reprappers
Yeah I have been down that road a few times as well, I have to laugh about the direction you went. I did similar thing, kept fighting an issue with an old laptop, that I though would work good for the the printer. Well the hard drive failed on me I priced a replacment IDE laptop hard drive, way too expensive. So I decided to give linux a try as well since I had a a really small IDE laptop sizeby AquaticsLive - Reprappers
Check out Grainger they are local a block away from my house, so I got a bunch of stuff there. Here is a link $1.47 US for 1 Meter long M8 x 1.25by AquaticsLive - Reprappers
ABS Juice for ABS prints (ABS plastic melted in 100% Acetone from hardware store) Aqua Net Hair Spray the bright pink label for PLA. The trick for both of them is to make sure you coat the area you want to print well, usally two coats. The ABS juice when you have enough it will have a milk white appearance. The PLA hairspray method you spray it till its wet once and then let it dry then spby AquaticsLive - Reprappers
I normally use 1/8" aluminum plates instead of glass they heat up much quicker and when I use my temp probe on it the edges heat more evenly. I also have two pieces of tempered glass; they are 3/16" tempered glass. I bought one 8 X 16 rectangle for 12.99 plus tax at a pet store and took it to a glass shop and had them cut it for $3, so I have two perfect pieces with really nice smooth edges.by AquaticsLive - Reprappers
Just a FYI you may already know the extruder will not move unless the hotend is above 180 degree, or whatever that safety setting is in your Marlin file. Has caught be several times now, keep forgetting about it.by AquaticsLive - Reprappers
Sorry forgot to say I am using two a E3D hotends, checked the current and they run about 3.5Amps each. So yeah that answers the question of Ramps 1.4 working with two heaters. Just too weak and can't depend on it not overheating if I try to cycle them separately. I checked out the traces on the Ramps 1.4 and they look pretty thin to be running more than 5Amps. So ordered some little mosfetby AquaticsLive - RAMPS Electronics
I installed a secod printhead on my printer, turned out pretty nice with. I ran some indivigual tests with just one printhead to select and it prints great. So the step is print both at the same time, and that is where we ran into issues. The printbead heater reach about half the time and then just shut off. Found the Thermal fuse open; it cooled down and it worked. I Looked at the printheby AquaticsLive - RAMPS Electronics
Forgot one more thing, if your using Sic3r you can change the Z offset on the printer settings tab; increase the value from 0 in .05 increments.by AquaticsLive - Reprappers
So in general you need to move your Z Axis aka print bed down. So on a delta it's a little more complicated. Without actually seeing the print bed, not sure if I can help much. So the autolevel thing can cause some issues, if that is what your fighting. There is probably config setting that would help. But whatever method you use, I would use the trick of leveling it with a sheet of paper onby AquaticsLive - Reprappers
Pros: I like how the slicing works, quick and GUI is nice. When it transitions from the home position to starting the print it moves towards the build plantform while moving forward; cleaning off any plastic before starting. I always get faster prints than with Slic3r Manage the speed transitions, printhead moves smoothly. Support structures are great, there is an option to support not from botby AquaticsLive - Reprappers
Bummer, I was hoping that button would be set-up to do reset or something useful. Emergancy stop I already set up with made my power switch use a big push in to turn off twist release to turn on. Maybe I can edit the Arduino for the button, need to look through the code to find the thing though.by AquaticsLive - Reprappers
I installed a SainSmart LCD Smart controller 12864 and wondered what the button is suppose to do. I might have a bad board, I am not sure. Anyhow when I click the button nothing seems to happen, but it disables me from using the knob. I have to reset power to the system to regain control. Really am just curious of it use, I removed the piece from the cover so I don't accidentall push it for nby AquaticsLive - Reprappers