Show all posts by user
Page 1 of 2
Pages: 12
Results 1 — 30 of 52
As nophead pointed out this is a mechanical error, ive swapped the pulley and belts on the X/Y motors from an old scanner and now it prints "almost" perfect circles, run a lashmaze for comparison before / after almost all backlash is gone.
I would like to thank everyone for your time and help.
by
PimpKittah
-
General
thanks chris, ill check the Cross test once i unpack the machine again, its in transit with me.. on its way to be the first ? reprap machine operating at sea ;P
Btw the gen 3 mendel reprap i bought parts from you a couple of years ago still runs
by
PimpKittah
-
General
Yes X is the horozontal left / right so to speak, due to the construction of the machine its really really hard to se the X motor and belt screw in movement as its housed inside wood, (you can see it but not if the axis itself is slipping on the nut, but its rock tightened)
And judging from the shapes it seems like it slacks off on the x axis hence it produces straight lines along the Y axis whe
by
PimpKittah
-
General
Ive done the (Current step * movement) / actual movement
Odd thing about this problem is that it always seem to occur at the end of the arc movement never in the begining.
and the machine is a printrbot jr, currently running sprinter.
by
PimpKittah
-
General
Ive checked my belts gears tight ass hell
Also tried tampering on the screw for motor power but still same issue any other ideas?
by
PimpKittah
-
General
1) I dont think its slipping or missing steps as the error always occures on the same "location" but im gonna try to tune the pot on the mobo to trippel check (im guessing thats what you mean?)
2) if this was a rod problem the outcome would be different depending on where on the bed i printed it but i always get the same outcome
any other ideas?
by
PimpKittah
-
General
Ive calibrated the machine to correct the X / Y using the M92 command all square prints are printing within "approved" limits (for now atleast)
But as soon as i print anything containing any typ of circle arc or something resembling a circle something odd happens
everything looks squished like lemons, it begin good but somewhere along 80% it decides to stop the arc and print a line, it also seem
by
PimpKittah
-
General
Well cheapest i can figure out is go to ikea or other lampstore, get a transformer for a 12V spotlight system. 220VAC to 12DC but im unsure what the load minimum is on them, the bigger set requires somewhere closer to 50W or more (about 4,2A at 12V) of load inorder to make the safety not to shut it down. (Ikea name TERMOSFÄR not cheapest i used to have 2 but since converted the setup to a LED sy
by
PimpKittah
-
Controllers
This one is rated 10A at 24V, and unless im not misstaken again ... i should be able to get around 20A at 12V (in ideal conditions of course)
The easiest would be to unwind some copper or center tap it but due to the 2kg of Epoxy surrounding it it makes it kinda overkill if not almost impossible, unless anyone got an idea how to solve epoxy (already tried aceton and it only scraped the surface
by
PimpKittah
-
Controllers
Ah i see,
well sorry my understanding of electronics is based in basic analog / digital electronic as a trained repair technican and years of experience and some hobby knowledge in other words not at enginering skill level
but since i dont work with it nowdays its kinda dim knowledge :/
Thanks Chris, and btw got any good ideas on how to make a simple voltage divider to stepdown an oldfashin 2
by
PimpKittah
-
Controllers
Hi im trying to construct a heated bed using 5 power resistors each at 6.8 Ohm, the resistors are coil based and can handle extreme high temperatures.
Ive constructed Alu heat transfers clamp for them myself and glued it all to the plate.
The problem now seems that when i connect them in parallel the ohm value drops wich doesnt make any sense according to rules of electronics as it should be th
by
PimpKittah
-
Controllers
Well actually i also had a related trouble with my machine, when i was using 19200 the coms crashed at random when trying to print but once i changed the firmware to 38400 the problem never came back
This problem didnt seem system related as i experienced same in windows and linux difference being windows worked sometimes but linux never worked
Now it flawless on both
by
PimpKittah
-
Controllers
Well since reprap software dont support temp change after layer X im guessing i gotta do this manually or simply write myself a script for it
Home after each layer dont know about that but probably an instruction somewhere
about the reversing i dont know where to change the settings, and still we dont use the same extruders
simply put i should stop using reprap host software?
by
PimpKittah
-
Plastic Extruder Working Group
If i turn down the temperature any more i cant get it to stick to the buildplate (dont have an heated bed yet) currently melting Ultimachines pla at 225C (according to probe and temp table created using datasheet, and i dont have Resistor fix to make more linear value as explained in some of your posts)
Currently have a 4mm ALU plate with Blue Scotch tape as build surface. (Acrylic one bent and
by
PimpKittah
-
Plastic Extruder Working Group
Har en fungerande mendel som jag jobbat på ett tag nu, dock lite smådetaljer som kalibrering som spökar o skulle behöva göra ett värmebord för den oxå ;P
Finns i Gävle, kommer kunna producera bitar när jag väl får kaliberingen att funka helt 100% förnärvarande så sitter det ett 0.3mm munstycke på den så det blir riktigt fina bitar dock så tar det tid :/ blir ungefär 0.35mm när PLA väl svält ut u
by
PimpKittah
-
Sweden, Gothenburg RepRap User Group
Slut förnärvarande men ska slänga en order hos leverantören i dagarna så jag kan ta hem då, dock så drar jag på semester och är inte tillbaka förens nånstans runt 2:a veckan i dec så ;P
by
PimpKittah
-
Sweden, Gothenburg RepRap User Group
Hi
ive currently having a little problem inorder to perfect my printing.
The extruder works and operates, currently running PLA...But once the layer is done it drools about 1-2cm of filament and the once the extruder tries to print its next layer the drool hangs on to the build causing deformation ... etc...
Im not sure but i believe that the speed of the filament feed might be the issue as it
by
PimpKittah
-
Plastic Extruder Working Group
ill give that a try, thanks for the tip
by
PimpKittah
-
Controllers
Hi Guys i gotta thank you all alot cause i actually managed to print something speciall thanks to nophead cause this machine is an offspring from one of his (the hydraraptor if im not misstaken?)
cant say its perfect but still proves that it actually works. i believe that some fine tuning is required
thanks again guys / girls (if any)
by
PimpKittah
-
Controllers
Not sure but this depends on the power consumption at the optimum moment, when the XYZ dont move they dont use much current. Much like any device thats graded for instance a router that has a default 500mA adaptor this is Optimum condition and even so like 2x safety margin cause the actual micros only draw probably around 60mA
Might be to weak im not sure havent run it long enought to see any pr
by
PimpKittah
-
Controllers
Well ive converted a "common purpose" switched power supply (or atleast i think so, most powercubes are switched nowdays) for the reprap using XLR connector of 12V the supply gives me around 3-5A at that voltage
if im not misstaken the psu should have those filter capacitors built in like all electronic supplys have.
And about the Cap polarisation i know thanks for the up, ive used to work as a
by
PimpKittah
-
Controllers
so in my case around 0,3-0,4 mm ?
by
PimpKittah
-
Controllers
Allright nophead.
well i dont want it to be liquid but i want the PLA to be hot enough to stick to the build table without a heated platform and i seem to have trouble manageing this
ive tried using Kapton and also Scotch but still i dont get it to stick good
what the rekommended spacing for extruder / build plate ?
any other things i should think about when it comes to using a 0,3 mm end pie
by
PimpKittah
-
Controllers
Temp is still fluctuation even with golden fiberglas insulation improvements are "small" but still need to push extruder close to well above 250 to get some sort of liquid state of the PLA instead of string like constistency. (and i know i im only guessing how high since it doesnt get liquid like)
by
PimpKittah
-
Controllers
im gonna try using some fiberglas insulation, report back on how it works.
ideas for good insulation except for fiberglas thats easy obtainable in local hardware stores ?
about the PID / bang bang i dont really know what you mean
by
PimpKittah
-
Controllers
Ive updated to the latest version of the firmware works better but still not quite as it should be
Readings till erradic.
by
PimpKittah
-
Controllers
Thermistor config
short temptable[2] = {
{1, 827},
{54, 253},
{107, 207},
{160, 182},
{213, 165},
{266, 152},
{319, 141},
{372, 132},
{425, 123},
{478, 115},
{531, 107},
{584, 100},
{637, 93},
{690, 86},
{743, 78},
{796, 70},
{849, 61},
{902, 49},
{955, 34},
{1008, 3}
};
Temp before usage is 23 C (room temp) 0 if i disconnect the senso
by
PimpKittah
-
Controllers
Hi
Ive got a little problem with my extruder, i cant seem to get the temperature to be stable or "correct" im currently using a B57560G104F thermistor using the values r1 = 0, r2 = 4700 and beta = 4085 according to datasheet.
Ive also stumbled across a post about some design error in the Extruder Board V2.2 pcb i dont know if this is related or not. due to my lack of german knowledge and google
by
PimpKittah
-
Controllers
i dont know if this is the fix or just a act of random functionality (probably the latter one)
but ive tampered with the firmware to run on default baud 38400 instead of 19200 and also changed the setting in the software. As of now it doesnt crash in windows when i try printing something, (running my first print now )
but still its kinda odd that i get this error in linux 100% of the time and
by
PimpKittah
-
Controllers
Page 1 of 2
Pages: 12