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I've been trying to install auto-leveling on my Prusa i3v kit. The version of Marlin on the board now does not have the auto-leveling script, so I need to update to a later version, but I see that versions 1.0.2 and 1.0.1 still have bugs, according to the github page.
I downloaded 1.0.2 and tried verifying it with the Arduino software and it gave me hundreds of errors. Am I missing some library
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nope_bye
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Firmware - mainstream and related support
Quoteleadinglights
My 200mm X 200mm bed takes say 100W for a temperature of 110 degrees C. For your 300mm X 300mm bed this would be about 225W with the 150mm X 150mm bed taking about 68W, saving 157W. If i take a wild guess at your electricity costs at 20 US cents per kWh then on a 10 hour print would save you about 1.57kWh or about 31 cents.
Nope, I don't think that it is worth it.
Mike
Ye
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General
Interesting. So it can be done, but there would be issues with it? I didn't realize the beds with 12 or 24V were different circuits. I've never used one. Why couldn't the smaller area be in the center? And why would separate heat spreaders be necessary? Is it because a larger one would warp or carry away too much of the heat?
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General
I was just wondering if it's possible or even worth it to make a heat bed with dual circuits. Bigger and bigger printers are being made and most of the time the larger print volume isn't used. So would it be possible to have two circuits on the heat bed and choose whether the whole bed is heated or not? It's essentially two different heated beds but connected by the same plastic board.
For exam
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General
Thanks for the responses.
I ended up using another program, but I still want to figure this out and make Slic3r my default slicer program. I measured the width of the walls and modified the extrusion widths as you said. It helped fill in the wall but it still has gaps, likely because the irregular kinks and bends of the wall. It's also likely that the wall changes thickness throughout the perim
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Slic3r
Hi everyone. I really love Slic3r, and I don't want to use any other slicer, but I can't seem to get this slice quite right.
I have downloaded this by azazel85 on thingiverse.
I have scaled it 80% which makes the walls just the right size to give me problems.
My printer has a 0.4 mm nozzle, and slic3r calculates my extrusion widths as follows:
external perimeters: 0.4 mm
perimeters: 0.67
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Slic3r
I'm also having this issue. I split up the nasa wrench, deleted two of the parts, and then exported it. When I tried opening it in another program, it was unable to open it. I wonder if it's just slic3r, or maybe I shouldn't be splitting up the parts like that.
Although I only used the latest version 1.2.6 to try it. What version did you use? It could be a bug or something. Hopefully others wil
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Slic3r
QuoteTraumflug
Well, give it a try and tell us. Very early extruders worked without any fan, so I guess it's a matter of patience. With insufficient cooling you have to print slower to allow the heat going to ambient. Where "insufficient" starts ... who knows without trying it?
Yeah I've been printing without a fan for a while and I see the need for it. I'm working on a design but I'm just afrai
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General
Hey everyone. I have a Makerfarm Prusa i3 with a hexagon hot end, which requires a fan blowing on it at all times.
I had an interesting idea to make a fan shroud that would divert some air from the hot end, over to the extruder. A large portion of the fan is blocked by the extruder mounts anyway, so if I space the fan away and free that up, I should be able to take some flow over to the nozzle
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General