UPDATE: I hate it hen this happens, but the problem sorted it self out when I switched out the arduino (something I did before and it didint change anything) :/ which is fun, but now I don't Know what went wrong :/. well this time I've attached a heatsink to the 5v regulator.by Karzin - Reprappers
definately not that. as I' said before, The text was already visible when I keep it plugged via USB. ANd I' have alredy adjusted the contrast beforehandby Karzin - Reprappers
Hello you guys, I,ve recently rebuilt my machine and on such occasion that im once again working on it, I've decided to add a SD card reader, So I've bought the "RepRapDiscount Full Graphic Smart Controller" and I've followed the instructions on how to tweak the firmware to enable it: However. Whenever I plug the USB cable to the Arduino mega, the Graphic controller turns on no problem. howeby Karzin - Reprappers
Nice design. thats some insane print volume. Not here to take a Piss or anything, I too enjoy designing my own unique frames. I would use some thicker threads for the Y axis ( the one below the glass.) and thicker rods for the M10 ones you have perpendicular to the leadscrew. You can also attach several heatbeds underneath the glass, and make like a box frame to cover yout printer to print aby Karzin - Reprappers
well its 1.78 so pretty precise, as i hear others get filament that is 1.32 and 1.87, so 0.003 offset, shouldn't make that much of a difference should it?by Karzin - Reprappers
Hello, So Ive recently built my machine, and used up one spool of filament tuning it. then I've bought the same colored PLA from the same supplier, and the same brand. aand now my prints get some really under extruded layers every 10 or 20 layers. I've been trying to lower the layer height, then increase the extrusion multiplier, but nothing seems to work. Any ideas?by Karzin - Reprappers
So I've tried it. and it worked. so Thanks a lot for that. However another problem emerged; none of the heaters are heating up. I turn on the printer, connect to PC and as I watch the temp on both heaters, It just stays the same. now Im used to the heatbed having a hard time warming ups and it takes a few times to do it, but the hot end usually heats up in 3 min., so I've checked the temperatureby Karzin - Reprappers
Heey, How would i go about changing the pins? i've scroled through so many .h files and i've never seen Pin assignmentsby Karzin - Reprappers
See I cheched the thermistors leads while it was in the heat block and the ressistance was fine. the weird thing is that even when the thermistor is not plugged to the T0 pins on the Ramps I get "Max temp triggered", even though I should get the "Min Temp triggered". And im positive that there's no short in the ramps board itself, because i've checked like 5 times for thatby Karzin - Reprappers
Hello, Recently my stepper drivers failed, and after hours of searching for the failure, I've finally started putting back the printer together, (note that i Own two Ramps1.4 boards) And with either one of my Ramps board i get an MAXTEMP triggered, called kill() error. Now I know exactly what this means, it means that the thermo resistor's resistance has dropped to a zero ( a short). I know hatby Karzin - Reprappers
I just now notices that there is a resistance between 5v and gnd on one ramps but not on the other (old one), and when i stack the ramps shield onto an arduino, It doesnt lose the connection. so I,ve started putting things on it one by one and see what causes it to lose the connection ant turns out, the Stepper drivers has a resistance between Vdd and gnd. so I've replaced the drivers with new onby Karzin - Reprappers
reinstalled the drivers and IDE, didn't workby Karzin - Reprappers
I found that there's a 200 ohm resistance between ramps Vin and GND, so clearly the reason is there. I replaced the arduino, before I found that out, and the voltage regulator burned out, but the USB connection works while the ramps is not stacked, the Blink example works fine. everything uploads fine. but when i stack a new healthy ramps (and the USB connection disappears.by Karzin - Reprappers
hello, So I've built and used my Printer for some time now, and one time I needed to check something from the back of the printer and while turning it around, my laptop turned of for some reason, and when i've turned it back on, and tried connecting to the printer on repetier, the arduino would not connect. so i took ir out of the printer, tried plugging to it separately, and it wont show up evby Karzin - Reprappers
well My extruder is a direct drive one and i didn't notice any difference between 5mm and 2mm retraction so i just left it there, so i guess it wouldn't hurt to make it smaller. Although I did come up with that number following a video tutorial from "Matter hacker", that said the retraction should not exceed 5mm, that's why I stuck with it. the Z axis Actually is quite unique in my case( at leby Karzin - Printing
So I've set the thing to 250% (from 200%) and it did worse. it extruded the same amount pretty much, but the lines were further apart. so then i decreased it to 150% ant it looks pretty good.by Karzin - Printing
UPDATE: so the stringing is down to a minimum. appearantly you have to make the retraction bigger and the non print movement faster ( 5mm and 250mm/s). cant completely make the go away because it appears that the PLA I bought really lacks viscosity, but for now i can live with that. in slic3r you can only adjust temperatures for the first layer.by Karzin - Printing
Hello guys, I've recently got my machine to finally extrude without problems. now i've been working with temperatures and other slic3r settings, but i just cant seem to make the prints look decent. - the first layer always seems to be underextruded ( you can always see the second layer if you're looking at the bottom of the part. - throughout the whole print looks wavy. and that seems to bby Karzin - Printing
What do you mean by ""heatbreak properly defined""? I understand that the top and bottom layers are part of the shell. but I'm talking about the inside itself. on slic3r I'd set it to 30 but it generates every layer as if its a shell. I tried it on CURA and i started printing now. on 10mm cubes there's some under extrussion, on the top and bottom layers. the in between layers seem fine. some rby Karzin - Printing
UPDATE: So I jury rigged a coupler out of few layers of heatshrink. works great. I made the first layer 0.3 for a 0.4 nozzle and rest of the layers to 0.2. aaaand so far It sort of works. I made it to layer 25 on a 10mm cube. then the extruder started to skip steps more often with every layer. I'm wondering is there any way for the screw on MK8 to loosen up over time? maybe some paste that yoby Karzin - Printing
Yeah I know how to count the step/mm. I've also posted the same thread on a different forum, and there sb pointed out that my layer heights were to high ( 0.4 for 0.4 nozzle) so I made it to a 0.3on first and 0.2 on the rest. Ive tried and it sort of worked. however I think i know now what was the problem. you see I've designed all the parts my self for the printer. including the motor to threaby Karzin - Printing
slic3r settings: Printer/extruder printer/general: fillament/fillament filament/ cooling Print/layers and parameters print/speed print/advanced So Ive set the E steps to 92.6 like you suggested and set the retraction to 1mm. Ive attached the configuration.h file and the links are screenshots of my slic3r settings. the only difference now is that at the start of the print after homing aby Karzin - Printing
So I'm using a MK8 extruder on a DIY prusa rework. and whenever i try to print, i get the firs layer perfectly, however the second layer and every other layer from there will barely extrude it looks like the filament stops moving and i get these really thin threads with some lumps every now and then. I cant figure it out, I've changed the steps/mm I've changed the heat breaker tube, the hot endby Karzin - Printing
Im using a MK8 extruder on my machine and lately i've been trying to get the settings right form it (currently i've 0.4 nozzle and 130 steps/mm at 215degrees) and when i start the print i usually get the first 3 layers done relatively okay, however since layer 4 it starts extruding really slowly (in such a way that the etxruded plastic is as thin as a hair, almost as if the extruder stopped turniby Karzin - Printing
Thanks, in my case its vertical. the problem is that it only has screw holes to be mounted this way. but yeah I believe the amount of airflow bouncing form the heatsink is enough to bring it down to 170C. I'll try fixing itby Karzin - Reprappers
I have a MK8 extruder, that has a fan mounted on it, if i extrude with the fan off, the filament gets warm and soft and collapses next to the gear and wont go into the little teflon tube. however if i turn the fan on, the extruder temp drops to 170C regardless of the settings in the slic3r (first layer 210C, other layers 205C) has anyone ever dealt with this?by Karzin - Reprappers
hello, lately, I've been fiddling with my power supply, and when i connected to the printer the first time after working on the PSU, my XYZ motion became very laggy: I meat it seams as if its ramming something, but on all three axis, or as if it tries to skip a bunch of steps does anybody knows what could be causing this?by Karzin - Reprappers
Hello, Im building my own printer, but i keep getting this error: Error: Heating failed, system stopped! Heater_ID 0 Error: System halted. kill() called! it always happens the same way: I connect everything, turn on the printer, tell it to heat u the bed and the extruder, the extruder heats up no problem, however while waiting for the bed to catch up, it just randomly cools down, no error or aby Karzin - Reprappers
Are you saying that there might be a short somewhere?, because i checked, and there arent any. could maybe the the wires of a thermistors are too thin?by Karzin - Reprappers